Drove home from work last night in a deluge and the passenger side headlight assy has water collected on the inside of both lenses. I've been driving around with all the lights on and parked it facing the sun. They are slowly drying out but obviously this isn't going to get better going forward.

Any advice? Clever fix? Pretend I don't notice?

Thanks
Jeff

 

This is what I found on my XJR when my lights would get full of condensation. The lights on mine have two access points, an inner one that screws into place and is no bother but the outer on on the other hand! The outer cover is held on by a metal clip that holds it in position but due to to its location it can be difficult to remove and refit, by difficult read almost impossible. What I found on mine when I had the lights out was that the foam seal in that cover can get pinched and fall out due to age. Not normally a big issue but when it rains the water will find its way right to that cover and go straight into your light if the seal has failed, its almost like it was designed that way! I took the seals out and refitted them and they have been OK since but I had to take the lights out of the car to do it.

 

Wow, thanks Joe. That's a great tip. Only one of them leaked so I got that going for me... I will check your suggestion as soon as the new floor in the garage hardens (long story) and I can get in there to work...

Also am I a geezer for thinking that a set of sealed beams would be pretty awesome on this car. I mean they're round anyway...

Jeff

 

I had some condensation in one my headlights due to a loose rear cover. The way I got the moisture out (after fixing the seal) was to tape a packet or two of dessicant to the inside of the cover. After a few days it was completely dry inside. Then remove the packets and discard.

 

If the water leaves mineral spots inside your headlamps, you can remove the lamps, pour in some denatured alcohol, swirl it around, pour it out and either allow the lamps to dry naturally or speed up the drying with compressed air. Unfortunately this requires removal of the lamps from the car, which requires disconnecting the bumper cover at each end, but that's not as difficult as it sounds. In fact, it makes repositioning the cover seal and replacing the bulbs much, much easier.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for all the help guys...

I also need to trouble-shoot the headlight washers (after I get them sealed up of course) and clean my grounds in that area. I'm guessing a bumper removal would expedite all of these projects? (It's the passenger side light assy that is giving me trouble)

Also, if one of my grounds is really shot how to I drill and tap a new hole? Do I have to use an aluminum bolt? Is there a trick ?

Jeff

 

Also, if one of my grounds is really shot how to I drill and tap a new hole? Do I have to use an aluminum bolt? Is there a trick ?

Jeff[/QUOTE]

Good question - Do we use aluminium bolts for the ground, please?

 

Hi Jeff,

Removing the bumper and headlamps will definitely make it easier to access the ground points behind the lamps, especially on the passenger side where the lower ground stud can be difficult to access. Hopefully your studs are still fine, and you can keep them that way after your cleaning by not overtightening the nuts. The torque specification is just 6.5 ft. lbs., or just over hand tight. Several of our members have learned the hard way how easy it is to snap a stud off of the body by overtightening the nut. Also, don't use sandpaper on the nuts or wiring ring terminals - that can leave deep scratches that can promote future corrosion. Instead, use a small brass-bristled brush and zero-residue electronic cleaner.

Hopefully you won't have to replace a stud with a bolt, but if so, an aluminum bolt would be best, since even stainless steel can react with aluminum to form galvanic corrosion (the last time I checked, McMaster-Carr carried aluminum bolts (mcmaster.com)).

Cheers,

Don