Anyone that's in the "POLAR" climate area of the USA is going to experience the air suspension bottom out issue especially when the temperature drops to below -0 Degrees F. So get ready. As the rubber in the air struts degrades over time and the temperature drops, the system leaks down until the compressor can't compensate for the leakage any more and then you wear out the compressor. In rare occasions the air bladder will just blow out. It's the slow leaking that drives everyone crazy and there's one sure remedy.

Last winter the 2004 VDP started experiencing problems. At that time I refurbished the compressor with a new Andy's piston ring and new desiccant.
This POLAR season, the systems was failing in sub freezing temperatures again and air leaking around the top of the right strut was clearly audible.

Love the the car and the air suspension. I decided that the simplest solution was to just replace the air struts. I ordered two front refurbished air struts from Arnott's. I can say that I am now an expert installing these, since I did it twice in my garage in winter.

My first mistake was ordering refurbished units. After removing the OEM units, and installing the Arnott rebuilt units. I found they also leaked around the top at the electrical socket. I called Arnott and they sent me two NEW Arnott Front Air Struts # AS-2710 as replacements. That was very nice of them since there is an up charge for the completely new units. These are of their own improved design. So don't bother with a refurnished unit. They also provided a label to return the old OEM core utilizing the same shipping box.

Now for the installation. For a reasonably handy home mechanic it will take about 2 hours total. We had a heat wave up into the 30's F and I pulled my patio heater in the garage for a little warmth. Basically there's 3 nuts to remove in the wheel area and 4 nuts on top of the strut. That's it!

Here's what you need.

1. 18 mm Box Wrench
2. 13 mm Open-End Wrench
3. 12 mm Open-End or Flare-Nut Wrench
4. TORX "60" 1/2" Socket about $7.00 at Menards
5. 15 mm Socket
6. 13 mm Socket
7. 5 mm Allen Wrench

There's a very detailed Video showing the installation procedure on the Arnott website.
Follow this and it is easy. These are my additional tips for getting this done for good in 2 hours.

1. Park the car in a clear area and chock the tires.
2. Open the trunk and disconnect the -Negative battery cable and leave the trunk open..
3. Loosen/crack all the wheel lug nuts slightly before jacking up the car. Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car from the factory jack positions and set jack stands for safety after the tire is removed.
4. With a can of Liquid Wrench spray the Nuts of the upper A-arm, torsion bar and lower strut mounting bolt on both ends.
5. Removed the air line from the top of the strut to relieve any pressure with the 12 mm Flare nut wrench.
6. Remove nuts in the order as shown in video.
7. The lower strut mount bolt needs a Torx 60 socket! Do not try to use an Allen head or hex socket. I heated the fixed nut with a propane torch for a few seconds to soften the thread locking compound. With the Torx 60 socket and long handled 1/2" breaker bar, you will be able to easily loosen the bolt. Then take the bolt to a wire wheel to clean the threads. Apply thread locking compound to the thread end of the bolt when re-installing.

First park the car where you want it a chock the rear tires.

It installs easily. Follow the Video as to how to remove the OEM strut from the car and position the new one. I used a small screw jacket under the lower A-arm to hold things at the correct height when re-installing bolts and nuts.

Take care when pulling down on the lower A-arm and hub assembly to position the new strut. Be careful not to separate the vehicle height sensor It is clearly visible, attached near the rear of the lower arm and the chassis.

After replacing the front OEM struts with the Arnott Air Struts Units the car never road so well. The compressor never runs and in fact actually blows off condensation now after it cycles. Surprise the air in the tank raised the car to ride height in seconds.

I ordered the struts from Carid website at a significant savings rather than directly from Arnott. Arnott® - Jaguar XJ-Type 2004-2009 Replacement Air Suspension Plus at the Carid website you may be eligible for other discounts.

If I can do this in Wisconsin during winter, then rest of you in the tropical USA will have no problems and done with this issue for good.

 

Thanks Ed for this well scripted diy on the front struts from arnott.
I did the same thing, one side at a time about 6 months apart. Should have done both fronts at once on my 2005 Vdp.

Like I said. Perfect.

Respect.


Gary

 

Thank you for this. I was looking for a list of the required tools since I need to take everything with me to fix my car since I'm flying out to go get it. I got stuck in the frozen north and the car is a desert car.

 

First let me give a big thanks to edobernig for the informative post! I too am having issues with the recent cold front that has been plaguing New York State! Ive already ordered the compressor rebuild kit but I am certain that one of my front struts needs replacing so this has been a great help! Just one question though, I see that there are two types of Air shocks available, sport and comfort ride. I want to put it back to as close as stock as possible but I dont know what the car originally brought. I have a 2004 XJ8 with Navigation. Any idea how to find out? Thanks in advance!

 

The XJ-8 and XJ VDP are comfort struts. The XJR Supercharged models would be the sport candidates. If you are broken down near metro-Milwaukee area personal message me.

 

a little off topic. One of my air ride leveling sensor brackets went PLING and I need a new one. DO they sell the them? Currently held on with zip ties. Figured maybe someone doing this job ran into this as well. Thanks!

 

Used right level sensors are on eBay for about $40. Sincerely,Ed
2004 2007 Jaguar XJR X350 Left Front Suspension Ride Height Level Sensor | eBay

 

Keep in mind that the NEW Arnots with the domed top are NOT electronically valved shocks like the OEM. They contain foolers to simulate the correct signal to the ASM. I prefer the remanned OEM as there is a differance in ride when the valving is changed while driving. If you opt to the Arnot ones then you should replace in pairs at the least which will increase cost. Even better is all 4 cause Ive driven cars and can feel a wallow especially in corners at speed over bumps from mixing the 2.

 

Brutal - So the reman Arnotts that don't have the domed tops do have CATS functionality?

I only ask as I have one Arnott strut on the FD side and OEM on FP side.

Thanks - Anthony

hve

 

yes the remanned OEM are still functional adaptive dampening shocks, the new domed Arnott style are not. Theyre a standard shock with a fooler to send the correct signal the ASM wants to see so you dont get a fault light. And now that I daily drive a 04 VDP 66 miles a day I have come to feel the differance when driving mine or customer cars with aftermarket Arnott air springs.

 

I found that I could not pull the lower arm down far enough to get the strut out with the height sensor in place, so I unbolted the bracket from the frame of the car... mind you I did not disconnect it!! with the bracket loose I could pull the lower arm down far enough to finally get the strut out and the new one in.

The whole job took me just under 2 hours... having never done it before.


Doing this revealed that I need to replace upper ball joint and out tie rod ends as the boots are totally disintegrated.