First of all,
Merry Christmas and Happy holidays to you all,
Ok so here is my Dilemma,
About a month ago my 04 XJ8 VDP started playing up, all the lights would come on, on the dash and multiple messages, Coolant to low, parking brake fault etc,
After reading on here and doing some research I replaced the battery, did a hard reset and cleaned the 3 grounding points behind the headlights. (not sure how well I cleaned them so going to have a look at them again tonight) and It has been running fine for the last 2 weeks or so then the same thing happened again. After another hard reset and after a few hours it started again and was good for another week. Yesterday the same thing, but only this time after 24 hours it would not turn over, let alone start. Just multiple dash lights and error Messages.
I must admit that the battery I got was from Walmart, only after that did I read that the better battery is the "Exide Extreme" from Home depot. This may well be my next step.
However the New battery (Walmart) reads 12.4v. I swapped it over for the old battery that came out which had been on charge and was reading 13.1v. This made no difference.
The only Codes I could pull were P1000, P1638 and P1699. I do not have the ability to read the other Jag codes.
Last week when it did start it was throwing 14v at the battery so I know that the Alternator is ok.
Do any of you top boffins have any ideas that could help this simpleton out?
Thanks for your time and help in advance,
Cheers,
Knobby.

 

Well both codes point to a CAN link fault:

https://www.obd-codes.com/jaguar

I suggest that you refer to the Electrical guide to find where the

joints are in the network and unplug and plug in some likely joints.

Also look for any moisture near joints.

A proper boffin will be along shortly.

Cheers

 

Hi Knobby,

I'm no top boffin, but your original symptoms do sound as though they could have been caused by a weakening battery. However, I doubt your current problems have to do with the Walmart battery; its 12.4V should have been adequate to at least crank the engine slowly. The 13.1V you measured on the old battery right off of the charger indicate that the battery had a surface charge that would quickly dissipate under load.

You can download the actual Jaguar XJ350 Diagnostic Trouble Codes Summaries manual at the link below. The manual tells what each code means and gives possible causes specific to the X350:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...03388427,d.cWw

You can download the '04 XJ Electrical Guide at this link, courtesy of our forum member Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf


As meirion1 mentioned, the P1638 and P1699 codes indicate a problem with the CAN, or Controller Area Network, which is the key intercommunication network used by major ECUs in the car, including the Engine Control Module (ECM), Transmission Control Module (TCM), Instrument Cluster (IC), Air Suspension Control Module (ASM), Climate Control Module (CCM) and several others.

The P1699 code specifically refers to a problem in the communications between the CCM and ECM.

I haven't checked for a circuit connection, but the first things I would suggest you check are the grounds behind the headlights that you cleaned to be certain one of the threaded aluminum studs hasn't snapped off of the framework. It's easy to overtighten a nut and cause this to happen because the torque specification is just 6.5 ft. lbs., or a little more than hand tight.

Another possibility that comes to mind is corrosion or shorting at the ECM electrical connector because of water pooling around the connector. There is a drain below the connector that tends to clog up with leaves, seeds and such. The connector is located on the engine side of the firewall below the cabin air filter housing. If you find the drain plugged, it will be worth disconnecting the connector to check for corrosion and flush it with zero-residue electrical contact cleaner. The connector is secured to the ECM by a 5-point tamper-proof Torx screw with a pin in the center of its recess. To remove the screw requires a special bit with 5 points and a hole in the center to fit over the pin in the head of the screw. I purchased a set of 5-point security Torx bits on eBay for about $20.00.

I would also recommend that you find a good local independent shop with the capability of reading the proprietary Jaguar DTCs, because your car probably has some U (Network) codes stored, and possibly also some C (Chassis) and B (Body) codes that will help in your diagnosis.

P.S. The P1000 code is a readiness monitor code that simply means not enough drive cycles have been completed since you last cleared the memory.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Guys, Hope you all had a great Christmas,
ok, So the latest update.






I cleaned and sanded all the Ground points that I could find,(3 by the headlights, 2 main from the Negative lead from the battery to the Chassis, and also the multiple ones in the trunk) tried to start it, still no different, (multiple msgs, no gauges etc)
I took out the MAS cleaned that with CRC electrical cleaner and replaced it. (I made an interesting observation in that that was a Denso part from Toyota, It has been in the car since I have had it and has done over 12,000 miles so I guess this works with the car) also did a hard reset with the - to + terminal. Tried the car again still no joy.
I checked the drain under the Cabin air filter and this was free and clear from any debris. The ECM connector looked clean and dry but I did not take it apart.
I did a load test on both batteries and the old one read about 850 amps under load and the new Walmart battery read about 950 amps under load.
I was done for the day after spending 4 hours on it without any luck.
I put the Walmart battery back in, tightened up the + terminal and just as was about to replace the - terminal I noticed a very small amount of oxidation inside the terminal ring, I sanded that clean using a Dremal tool with a cylindrical sanding attachment and secured it back to the - pole on the battery. For S&G's I tried it again and low and behold the bloody thing fired right up.
I still have an engine light on and P1699 and P1639 which I shall look into more at the weekend.
I have driven her all weekend and she drives fine, fires up first time and everything(for now) works. I know it is not 100% but hopefully I am on my way.
Don your tips and help is invaluable and greatly appreciated.
I will keep you all informed.
Cheers,
Knobby.

 

Good!
As often, multiple issues due either to a weak battery or (in your case) a bad ground. First time I hear of oxidation inside that negative terminal ring, good to know.
Hope you find out the engine related issues but at least she runs!

 

Good news, Knobby! You're on the right track.

Regarding the Denso MAFS, that is the original and correct part. The Engine Management System (EMS) is made by Denso, including the Engine Control Module (ECM), the ignition coils and most of the sensors. Denso used to be 100% owned by Toyota but several years ago 75% of Denso was divested so Denso could sell parts to other automakers. I recall reading that sales to Toyota now account for less than 50% of Denso's sales.

Thinking about your P1699 code and looking at the CAN schematic in the Electrical Guide, the CAN wires between the CCM and ECM pass through the Dynamic Stability Control module, which is in the RH front side of the engine compartment. It might be worth cleaning the electrical connectors at the DSC with your CRC electrical contact cleaner.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don,
I will look through the schematic in the link that you posted to find out exactly where that is located.
Soon it will be time to tackle the dreaded Air suspension, but that is another story. One thing at a time..

 

ok so,
I thought I would take the old girl out for a ride when I got home from work last night, She started right up and put that big smile on my face but (yes the dreaded "BUT") about a mile from home all the lights on the dash came on the gauges all went to Zero except for the Fuel Gauge, I turned around and came home knowing that if I stopped I would not be able to get it going again. Sure enough when I parked it up and turned it off and tried to restart it nothing except for the dash lighting up like a Christmas tree.
I had run out of light so did not do anything else to it except use some foul language (that didn't help either) I have an early finish on Friday so that is about the next time that I will be able to tinker with it.
So basically back to square one.
Don I am still to do what you suggested and will try and find the DSC and give that a good cleaning. I will look at the location map that you put up and go from there.
I am yet to find an indie Jag tech who I can trust. There is one near me that I went to once and he was as expensive as the Jag dealer so am still looking about.
Cheers,
Knobby.

 

There has been a case where disconnecting and reconnecting a CAN connector

solved the problem.

The connector was under one of the front seats and I suppose that a

connector on the floor could be susceptible to moisture ie any leak that

gets under the carpet.

I do not remember the symptoms in the above case.

 

Welcome to my world: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...galore-101236/

 

Meirion1,
Thanks for your advice, I will take a look under the seats but don't remember anything being slightly damp let alone wet. I will check the connections and give them a clean anyway..
DonsXJ8,
I read your thread, Made for some Interesting reading. Like your Jag, mine is in Florida so don't deal with corrosion problems like people up north. When it does not do anything I am still able to move the gear selector. It is not stuck. But I might well take the cover off and check those connections too just in case. Will do the easier ones first of course..
I have a half day so will be checking the connectors at the DSC to EMC. Thanks to Don I now have a fairly good idea where to look.
Will keep you posted on hopefully some progress.


I wish everybody a safe and Happy new year and remember, If you are not in Bed by 1am...... Go Home..

 

Happy new year.
I am still not able to narrow down the dreaded P1699 code and where that is a problem but as I was tinkering about under the hood I noticed that 2 of the 4 nuts holding on the drivers side Air Strut have been sheered off somehow. These were replacements from Arnott. They worked good for about a month then would notice that the passenger side kept losing air and again I would get all the "Air suspension" codes. The car is coming up to 13 years old so to stop the bleeding I have just ordered the conversion kit from Strutmaster. I read many posts on here and really it seems that the are good and bad for both Strutmaster and Arnott. I do like the fact that Strutmaster make their struts rather than getting them manufactured from China.
Anyway, I will do that fix in hopefully a week or two when the parts arrive and I can spend a whole day on it.
Oh yeah, they were also about $400 cheaper than Arnott including shipping.
Well, Cheers
Colin.

 

Hey Knobby,
Were you able to fix your issue? I seem to be having a very similar issue with the same codes.

 

Hey Black Cat,
After trying several things all mentioned in this Forum I had to admit defeat and took the old girl to a garage specializing in Jags.
They had it for over a week and of course it did not play up while they had it.
Anyway they did a reset of the entire electrical system and that seems to have solved it. No issues for the last 7 or so months.
The garage said that the computers occasionally glitch and throws everything off (How true that is, is anybodys guess) but what ever it was it seems to be all good now..
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
knobby

 

Thanks knobby!

 

The exact issues of the OP is part of the TSB I posted for you BlackKat. And the condition can easily cause no-start, and they warn of it in the TSB.

Note: The vehicle can still continue to be driven, however, if the condition still exists when the engine is switched off, it will not be possible to restart the engine.

There is a reason for the issue, and "glitches" just don't randomly happen, there is a specific reason they happen. Finding the reason is the key. As I suggested before, I would follow Workshop Procedure 1, and disconnect the affected connectors they point out, and examine for water intrusion first, and then reseating the connector, and if the issue subsides, then great, if not take it to the next step and start using the detailed repair procedure for female pin collapse.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Cluster.pdf

The real moral of this story is, if you lose CAN, you're screwed.

 

Box, thx for (re)posting this link, I missed the previous thread.
That is a very scaring situation, better not to encounter it on the road!

 

Thanks box. I was curious to see where exactly his CAN signal was cutting out at. For the TSB. I'll post updates once I give it a go.