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I have a 06 "X356" SV8, and it has the ribbed charge coolers on it.
Maybe they used a more economical supplier, or maybe they have improved heat-transfer properties. I am sure someone on this forum can educate us...
Dears, I'm lost. I wanted to be sure I have the proper oil level in the tranny before I take the next steps. As a reminder, my current pan looks new and someone wrote 02 / 2025 on it suggesting it was replaced very recently, but I had the radiator replaced, so some of it has been lost. I couldn't do it today - not enough time to cool it down to 40*C. My mechanic suggested - let's gently unscrew the filling hole on the running engine on hot oil, if it will leak out instantly, at least I'll know I have decent level of oil. So we did, and a RED oil leaked out. Yes, I bought the original Lifeguard and I know how it looks. On the other hand, tranny works like a charm on gentle treatment, the previous owner seemed a reasonable guy, and it's hard for me to believe the car is running on wrong oil all this time. Mechanic suggested that perhaps some fine alternatives to Lifeguard are RED?
The only thing that comes to mind is to replace whatever I have with the LifeGuard I already bought, perhaps leaving the current pan. But, as we know, only a fraction of the oil is actually exchanged with the pan, so I might mix two different fluids. Any words of wisdom very welcome, since, as mentioned, I'm lost. Can you confirm oil has to leak out on a running engine after replacement? I thought not, but it was too long ago.
...Mechanic suggested that perhaps some fine alternatives to Lifeguard are RED?
Automatic transmissions entered our family with me late Dad's 1941 Oldsmobile 'Business Coupe'. Over time, plenty of red
transmission fluids have been common. Buick's Dynaflow - and not-only - could get you home on successive top-ups of ignorant TAPWATER, but "mixing" dissimilar fluids has always been a bad idea.
The Zeppelin-heritage transmissions are SAID to be overly picky, but for-sure plenty of them have been run on other-than-Lifeguard.
So yes. He is correct.
I'd pay more attention to total mileage, and whether it is known or NOT known if any of the internal clutch pack and gearset parts have been replaced. They assuredy DO wear.
Any "lifetime" claim is 'commercial puffery' AKA 'bu ci' // boolshite AKA "not so". Lifetime of WHAT?
"Our product is guaranteed until it fails" is the reality.
Clever folk, the descendents of dirigible mavins can be.
Yes. Mercon SP is red and is identical to the Lifeguard6. Yes they are the same fluid so the color does not matter. BUT you are in Poland and I am pretty sure that Mercon product was only sold in the US? Which means I don't know what fluid they used.
Any chance you can find out?
Yes the pan drop method does not change 100% of the oil but it does change a lot. So I recommend several drain and refills if your worried about old fluid being left behind. Not a fan of flushing but others will do it.
So what you saw was a good sign. You know the fluid and pan were recently changed. The fluid is clean and red. The level is still unknown but up to you if you want to check it correctly. But fluid level is a major factor. With the fact you lost some with the radiator swap that would point me to making sure what the level is NOW before doing anything else.
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Yes. Mercon SP is red and is identical to the Lifeguard6. Yes they are the same fluid so the color does not matter. BUT you are in Poland and I am pretty sure that Mercon product was only sold in the US? Which means I don't know what fluid they used.
Any chance you can find out?
clubairth1, Thermite, thank you, really glad to hear that. I bought the car late April, so the change, assuming it took place, took place still in Florida. I just remember some horror stories of someone filling the wrong fluid by mistake, which was also red, but if there's a red Mercon on the market that is proper and ok, that's 99,5% the case. And if they're identical, as you say, there should be no harm in topping it up a bit with Lifeguard I already bought and have? I won't do the full change yet. It's a matter of leaving the car overnight to get to those 35*C. Can you confirm the level is measured on a running engine? I don't remember that, but the mechanic is rather sure. SZ makes a SH sound, so szukasz is shoo-cash Sorry to disappoint
Yes always at idle with the car level. The temperature MUST be correct and I have waited too long and got the fluid above what was needed. Had to wait until the next day to start all over!
Be aware that you could be over or under filled and both are not good. You want a small trickle of fluid dribbling out at idle and the right temperature. Now you have the pleasure of trying to jam the threaded plug back in before too much oil has come out or the oil temperature raises too much while right next to a blazing hot exhaust system!
I try to wear gloves while putting the plug back in. You have already removed the drain plug but if you have not loosen it BEFORE you drop the pan! Several guys got burned because that fill plug is installed VERY tight for what ever reason from the factory. I thought I was going to shear off that small 8mm Allen wrench before it "popped" loose. Had to use a 2' cheater on that small wrench.
It's certainly NOT needed but there is a special tool just for that plug. I found one for a decent price and purchased it. I have not had to use it yet but will on my next transmission fluid change.
Attached is a quick fluid change guide for a LR but it's the same 6 speed ZF as what you have. Might be worth a read. Do note that adaptations can ONLY be reset with the SDD tool or something similar. Just touching the battery terminals together will not reset them.
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Sorry to disappoint 
