Howdy all,
Noticed oil leak front starboard side (U.S.). Assumed it was likely from the cam cover gasket that I had replaced last year. After I ascertained that it wasn't gasket:
I removed the bottom cover and found that the oil filter had loosened. Hand tightened & no more leaky.
To preclude this from happening again, would it be helpful to put some Teflon tape on the nipple when I next change oil? Any other ideas?
Also, I have many oil wrench tools. The smallest one I have is a gnat's hiney too large. Does anyone know what size/type I should specify?

Thanks & best,

Steve S.

 

Hi Steve,

oil filters are to be tightened by hand only, but it is very important to oil the rubber gasket a bit before mounting the oil filter. The oil on the gasket really seals the filter by creating a kind of "suction effect" and the filter will stay in place. Nothing else is needed.
Do not tighten the filter with a tool, you will not be able to loosen it again!
On the other hand, when you forget to oil the rubber gasket, the filter can loosen itself due to vibrations, and the end result can be catastrophic...

Regarding the tool, on the XJR the filter is easily accessible, so in this case I use a universal oil filter tool like this:

Best regards,

Thomas

 

I like this type

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30560582...RoC8BcQAvD_BwE

 

Thanks so much, Thomas. I'm reasonably sure that I oiled the gasket, but then again, maybe not. Cool tool, especially since the handle is not perpendicular...

Best,

Steve S.

 

I have a set like this, as well, and they are especially useful for cars where the oil filter is not so accessible (for example my Audi A4, it's a real nightmare). For the Jag, the tool I posted works fine

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks, Meirion1. I think I have all the sizes except for the one I need

Best,

Steve S.

 

I once had an oil filter back off a wee bit and cause a small leak. This was after a Jag indy service on my XJ-S.
Here's what I do - I'm sure its controversial b/c it goes against all advice regarding tools to tighten. Offered up anyway.

1 - Do it myself
2 - Write date and miles with sharpie on bottom of filter
3 - Oil the rubber seal on the new filter.
4 - Screw on the filter until the o-ring just touches the sealing flange.
5 - Tighten a further 3/4 turn using the date / miles writing as a guide. Its very rare I've got access to get a good grip for a 3/4 turn. So this usually requires a strap wrench for the last 1/4 turn or so to make it a real 3/4 turn.

I've never had a leak or filter back off and always been able to get the filter off with the same strap wrench.

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...enches/8567604

I've done this for years on 4 cars & 2 trucks with no issues over many oil changes - maybe 50 oil changes? This works for me. YMMV!

HTH, Dave

 

Hi Dave,

Thanks for describing your excellent technique.

Thankfully, I caught the leak early and lost very little oil, probably less than an eighth of a quart. It definitely made me think about what could have happened if I'd been driving and the filter had loosened further. Given the car's age, I'm extra vigilant & in this case, it paid off.

I have been blessed with physical strength (Weak mind; strong back?). However, either I didn't lubricate the gasket enough or I didn't tighten the filter enough by hand. Hand strength is obviously variable.

What I really like about your method is that it takes the subjectivity out of it & IT WORKS!

Have a great weekend!

Steve S.

 

Hi Steve,

if you are not sure anymore whether you have oiled the gasket, or not, I would suggest to remove the oil filter and put it on again making sure that it is oiled. Otherwise, it might happen that it gets loose again.

I would do it to be on the safe side...

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks, Thomas. I haven't yet replaced the bottom cover. So, it will be easy enough to do.

Best,

Steve S.

 

Steve, I wouldn't put any Teflon tape on the nipple threads. Too much chance it winds up in the engine, naturally winding up in the most critical oiling point. 3/4 turn on an oiled, and single, gasket should be fine. I always make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, then give the new one all the torque one old arm can supply. That'd be just barely past 3/4 turns.......

 

I'll chime in here...be sure the gasket from the old filter is removed when the old filter is detached. Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Here's some info I posted in another thread awhile back. May be appropriate here. Below are photos of oil filters that fit the 4.2L engines and in some cases the 4.0L engines and the wrenches/adapters I have on hand that fit them:



Starting at the left is the Wix 57302. The adapter I have that fits is marked inside: 75 77 / 15, which means the adapter fits either 75 mm or 77 mm filters with 15 flats (its sides are stepped to accomodate the two filter sizes). The flats on the 57302 are actually slightly concave or fluted.

The second from left is the Mann W713/29. The aluminum adapter is number 903, which is marked inside: 74P-14-1. It has 14 flats. The black stamped steel adapter is marked 76 / 14, meaning 76 mm with 14 flats. I don't know how to reconcile the 74P on the aluminum 903 with the 76 mm on the black steel adapter.

The third from left is the Jaguar EAZ 1354. The aluminum adapter is number 903-1, which is marked inside: 75P-15. It has 15 flats. The black stamped steel adapter is marked 74 76 / 15, meaning it fits either 74 mm or 76 mm filters with 15 flats (its sides are stepped to accomodate the two filter sizes).

The filter at the right is Mann 719/7. This has 12 of what I have come to call the Ford Motorcraft flutes because I think I've seen these flutes on some Ford filters. Maybe someone else with have a better reference. The aluminum adapter is number 903-6, which is marked inside: 75P-12.

The ring-style wrench adapter, Jaguar special tool 303-752, has 15 flats and fits both the Mann 713/29 and the Jaguar EAZ 1354.

The standard steel band-style wrench fits all four filters.

Given the limited space available to fit an adapter to the end of the filter, the black stamped-steel adapters may be too deep when you add a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar. A serpentine belt tool will work if the vehicle is high enough off the ground for its handle to clear.

The aluminum adapters have sockets for a 1/2" ratchet, breaker bar or serpentine belt tool, plus a hex for a standard open-end wrench or box-end wrench/ring spanner, which can help when there is limited clearance from the top of the oil filter.

The black stamped steel and aluminum adapters are available in affordable kits that contain numerous sizes.

The Jaguar special tool requires the least clearance at the end of the filter, especially if you're using a longer filter, but it does not fit some of the available filters.

I usually reach first for the steel band-type wrench simply because I know it almost always works, although on some XKs the clearance can be so tight that it's difficult to work the band up and around the filter.

Obviously, there are other filters that members may be using, including Jaguar C2C41611 and Mahle OC602, but the ones above are all I have on hand right now.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks, guys! I didn't use Teflon tape.

I had forgotten that I had this one. Thankfully, I found it just as we received Dave Allen's post.

& LOOK! Just like one of the ones that the inestimable Don B has pictured! Now, do I feel smart or what?!!

Have a great day!

Steve S.