Hi. My 09 VDP (aluminum) has a paint blister on the same spot on both sides of the front pillars.

At the risk of offending and unfriending here, I am considering the dreaded “spray bomb”. If you are still with me.... I know it’s maybe not the best, but it should be better than the way it is now. Ultimately, I will have it professionally done.

I can order spray can and clearcoat online in my color. My plan is to clear away the damaged area, sand, clean and paint. I would mask and cover to only paint the affected spot. My thought is to then wet sand beyond the area and try to blend the clear.

Has anyone done this before on aluminum? What are my chances of success?

 

Noy a specialist but painting on aluminum is a challenge.
As it is bubbling, you certainly have to sand down to the metal, which means thereafter to secure a good adhesion of the paint.
Quality of the sanding and choice of the paint will certainly be important (compatible with aluminum).
Now as you intend to have it professionally redone afterwards, your first repair approach may be good enough.

 

Yes, on the boot of a Rover P6; I am no expert, but I can say that you will need to use an etching primer.

 

If you do it, you need to treat with alumiprep33 or similar product which will clean and remove oxidation. Then apply a primer sealer, then base coat, then clear. Or you can go to a dealer and ask who does there make ready on used cars becuase theyre great on spot repairs and blending. Larger will have them onsite. We do and go talk to them. Usually they are contracted through a larger company and might be more than happy to do some cash work...and btw that alumiprep is about $100qt and you dont need much.

 

Well I have to say I've never seen filiform corrosion on the A pillars; plenty on the D pillars and at the front of the trunk lid, but never there. I hav e personally done a few repairs of this during my ownership of my first X350 from 2010 to 2016 when I swapped it for another one with later year, (2007) and lower miles. Even so I still had to do some paintwork.

My method is to scrape out all the area of corrosion which will be a white powder. This is aluminium hydroxide produced as a result of water coming into contact with the aluminium in the absence of oxygen. Salty water is even worse. Once all the white powder has been scraped away and a nice shiny aluminium surface is there, I prime with zinc-rich primer, followed by ordinary primer. Then I fill the depression with some acrylic stopper to make the level, flat off, and then apply more primer, base coat and then clearcoat flatting-off between coats. Final flatting paper will need to be 1200 or 1500 grit. I never had a subsequent problem where I repaired this way. Biggest problem is getting a colour match.

 

Thanks EsRay

 

Thanks very much Mr. Brutal.

 

Much appreciated Fraser.