Codes thrown are hall effect sensor fault and another electrical fault in the actuator...

So, is there any realistic way to replace this in the garage at home?
The manual includes disconnecting the shocks and subframe?!?!?
Any tips?

 

This is an interesting question and I haven't got the answer only a few comments.

I know that this thing is located at the top of the rear wheel arch and is only held on by a couple of bolts/nuts.

Having to remove the subframe etc. is a joke.

You will need to have a look underneath. Can you see it and can you get a really

long extension onto it with a socket? Maybe have a special tool made to get to

it?
Have a look at the wheel arch inside the boot. What do the fasteners look like from

the inside? Can they be drilled or ground off?

Even if you succeed in removal replacement will require even more imagination but not impossible.

 

Yeah, I'm just gonna have the dealer do the job when the part comes in on Tuesday....

 

Perhaps you can let us know how they do it?

 

I haven’t had a look at this so I cant give you a direct answer however I have had other cars with a similar problems.

One Aussie V8 took 4 hours to get to 2 of the spark plugs. Had to remove half the engine bay to get at 2 of the plugs. Solution was to drill an access hole in the inner guard so I could pass in a spark plug socket on 2 long extension via the wheel wheel.
I made the hole large enough to pass the plug in on the socket. I then put in a rubber body plug

So the answer may be a simple mod to get to the bolt. I can have a look over the weekend if you need that

Cheers
34by151

 

I had them do the work.
They called and told me the part I supplied from coventry west was throwing the exact same codes and doing the exact same thing.
I asked if they followed JTIS for proper diagnosis and they got defensive. I asked for the part they removed and all service records/tech notes.

Service manager went nuts.....didnt give me the records but gave me the parts....

Get home and inspect rear undercarriage and 9ne of the subframe bolts is misaligned

 

Huh, according to JTIS, those bolts should have been completely replaced for this procedure.....makes me wonder what else they didn't do according to JTIS......like maybe use their handy dandy subframe alignment tool.....or drain the gas tank so the weight of the petrol didn't bend something when it was detached......

 

left hand wheel toe and camber 'look' about proper
Right hand (the side that has the misaligned bolt) the wheel appears to be toe-ing in and the tire is appr 6-7mm closer to the wheel well than left hand tire at leading edge....

 

So, my car is at the dealer again.......this makes the 5th time in 2 weeks...


Had car towed back to dealer, in a loaner 2012 XJ........gonna have a come to jesus chat with the service manager on monday...

The dealership manager stepped in, they're gonna fix the problems and do a proper, by the book diagnosis

 

I don't think the subframe has any adjustment in its attachments. I doubt that it is misaligned causing tracking issues unless it was put back together wrong. The manual does call for dropping the subframe 60mm only, not removal. The gas tank should be drained to reduce its weight and help with safety since the fill tube has to be disconnected so it can drop down some.

 

The manual also calls for complete replacement of the subframe retaining bolts.....for very good reason......go stick a magnet on one.......or not.....
They're aluminum, they can't take repeated torquing to 100lb/ft.....my suspicion is that the misalignment is due to a subframe mount bushing either collapsed or not properly seated.

 

How do I set the park brake on Jaguar XF 2009