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Sorry to hear of your issues... another reason why II do my own wrenching. I agree with XJ8JR changing the wheel hubs for $80 will be cheaper and easier with 5 brand new studs rather than pounding out the old ones. I suspect you have more than overtighting going on too... sounds like cross threading to me. Good Luck!!
Originally Posted by adam699
So, since this is directly related I won't make a new thread but I'm back to replacing studs...
About a year ago I had an incident at Discount Tire of Oak Lawn IL where they damaged my wheel stud while swapping my summer tires for winter tires. So they swapped the 3 tires and sent me on my way to get the stud fixed (huge pain on a jaguar) and told me to come back. When I came back a week later, another salesman gave me a hard time about swapping the 4th tire that the tires are 10 years old and tried to upsell me, altho a week earlier they had no problem swapping the other 3 tires with matching dates. I was treated unprofessionally and extremely rudely to the point that I sent a complaint email to upper management which resulted in me getting 4 brand new tires and an apology.
Fast forward to yesterday. I wanted to do my brakes. Turns out the shop overtightened my wheels. One wheel came off like butter. The other 3 have been tightened on max with an impact wrench to the point that I can't take them off with an impact wrench for a semi truck even after soaking them in wd-40 overnight. I assume that the tech was trying to retaliate against my complaint. All of my lugnuts are ruined and I need multiple studs replaced. Most of my anger at this situation is with the fact that my wife has been driving this car for the past year with my 3 year old son. Overtightened lug nuts can cause the wheels to break off.
So, I already know how to do the back. How do I do the front on an x350? Does the hub assembly have to come off or just the disk?
I’m a five time used Jaguar owner since my first being a 1988.5 in the early 90’s. First thing a Jag Dealer recommended to me is always hand tighten lug nuts on a Jag. One can use a torque wrench but most people tighten as much as possible and then an extra hard shove to ensure tight as possible. I’ve driven cross country (Over 3000 miles!) in a 95 XJ6 that I replaced my brake pads myself without any problems.
I think this is important to say! I almost think it should be in the front of every group in this forum. It did not used to be this way. I’ve owned now five Jaguars; All XJ’s & an XF.
But since buying a ‘06 XJ8 for cash I’ve found you cannot trust what’s in parts computers! (Or as they call it: Their ‘Book’ I first saw this over 5 years ago. I had a ‘97 XJ6. With 90° Plus weather I knew interior temps would be astronomical!!! My work was close so I rarely drove! Saw someone in town with (approx) same year car. I asked who he had work on it & he gave same name my boss had as his mechanic. Anyway blinker was out & a couple other issues. He got a “flasher” from NAPA but said he couldn’t find it to replace! (Because there ISN’T ONE! It was a fuse on the driver side back seat fuse box)
On my 2006 XJ8 I needed a replacement wheel stud. NAPA, Advance Auto, AutoZone, Amazon, even DORMAN ALL show the WRONG PART! It’s the one for Lincoln LS! Which makes sense since Ford based the S-Type off of it & most wheel hubs are the same! Even TATA is still using Ford specified parts!
My point being is these parts store employees all feel their computers are without fault. I tell them PEOPLE program those databases and PEOPLE are often AT FAULT!!
This is correct. The wheel stud is a Ford part. Since obsoleted. The correct Dorman part number is 97044.1. Currently still carried by NAPA as NOE 6414112.
It has a larger knurled shank. It grips the hub much more securely than the generic 610-484. It is harder to seat. But once there it is locked in. The serrated section on the Dorman 610-484 is almost flush with the smooth shank. Not good.
Discount Tire rotated and balanced my tires about a month ago. Saw one of the lugnuts was sticking out about a 1/2” past the other four. Tried to back off and it freely spun, and slides in and out.
That hub already had two 610-484 installed to replace studs that had spun the lugnut from impact driver at Discount. This time the lugnut was crossthreaded and when they hit it with impact it spun the stud. Cutting off now.
Saw how close the serration ODwas to the shank OD on the 610-484. Almost no upset. Found these Ford parts for 2003 - 2007 Ford Taurus. Length and diameter are the same. Just the serrations are a millimeter larger OD. Shank is same, calipered them.
A big plus is the head is notched to slide around hub. Had to grind the 610-484 heads like this to install. Did this instead of grinding on
the hub.
I agree with XJ8JR
