I was just wondering if there was such of a spray for an aluminum body to help prevent corrosion? I'm sorry if this has been covered, I did a search. I have always had my other cars rust proofed and my 1985 Mustang was an example that it works. She didn't have a spot of rust when she left this world last spring.

 

Paul,
The car is aluminum - it will not rust as steel - no protection is needed. Aluminium will oxidate like steel but the oxidation product(rust) is very dense(impermeable unlike steel) and it will seal and protect it self. Aluminum can be prone to galvanic corrosion since it is low in the galvanic series and when exposed to metals higher in the series then it will sacrifice itself, like zinc protects steel, but as you properly is thinking that is not the case here. The small steel parts that are on the car is nothing for the mass of aluminum(sacrifice is insignificant) and the only way you could ultimately could stop the insignificant sacrifice was to isolate the two metals from each other.
Rust is not a concern

Martin

 

MTW basically correct, the car will not rust as its made from aluminium. However salt can still wreak havoc with aluminium; that's why airports never use salt to de-ice runways and taxiways, it corrodes the aircraft badly.

With these X350 saloons, there have been some issues, certainly in the UK, with corrosion creeping under the paint surface at certain locations on the car. This is a cosmetic issue, and in my case, I had to have some remedial work done. In my opinion, Jaguar were still on a learning curve with painting aluminium in 2003 when these cars were introduced, and it took some few years before they finally had it worked out fully. Unlke steel cars, aluminium painting is not so straightforward, it is necessary to use a special primer to etch the aluminium to get the paint to adhere. Incidentally, my own car is a 2003.

Stuff like Waxoyl, a product available here in the UK, works as well on aluminium as steel.

 

I wanted more opinions, Jaguar basically told me the same thing but in less detail I found this article regarding Waxoyl, I will have to find out if anyone offers this product/service in Toronto. http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/waxoyl.asp

 

how many times can I pull the little elastic ties that hold the gps dvd in the trunk when it is out of the box before it stretches more than my.. or my friends... or my ......>?
enough please.

 

Is there anything you can do to protect the metalwork which is out of sight?

 

A Waxoyl kit normally includes a probe for squirting the stuff into box sections and the like. It's a very popular product in the UK for classic, (and thus badly protected), cars.

 

Thanks

 

waxoyl is a waste of time and money, I used it on 2 cars, (both 60's Jags come to think of it),the idea that you can shoot and spray glorified old fish and chip batter oil and think it will help is well......\
just eat the fish and chips then go out for a pint.

 

So... what's better? Or what ingredients should one be looking for?

 

Hello,

we speak about aluminium oxidation. Is it critical for the struture of the body like a steel car or ist only ugly?

But what about rust at the axles? I cawled underneath the car and saw a lot of it at the rear axle. The structure of the rear axle seems to be too complex to waxoyl it in the car. The only possibility is to remove the axle and waxoyl it in the garage. Any experiences?

Tom

 

Most people wouldn't be bothered with suspension parts because they are beefy. Just like most people don't spray engine parts.

But, if you want to keep it cleaner looking you might want to consider "Fluid Film" which comes in an aerosol. It is about the consistency of automatic transmission fluid.

The caveats are:

1. will it damage any rubber parts

2. do not get any of it on your braking system

3. keep it away from any bearings and seals

You can also consider one of the oil spray treatments. Remember that these are an *annual* treatment. A car that has been oil sprayed annually will have much less underbody corrosion than one that has not been sprayed.

You have to balance this with the Jaguar caution that aftermarket rustproofing damages the factory rustproofing. So, you might want to consider spraying only the underbody.

 

You should invest in a bag of wire ties, they do wonders like duct tape

 

I know this is an old thread, but maybe there is still some interest.
Since historically most cars are steel bodied maybe those of us with aluminum bodied cars can take some clues from the owners of GA aircraft, which are mostly aluminum (or composite).

I thought about this when I was under the XJ8 recently and decided to spray down a few body seams with some Corrosion X I had in the shop.

When I owned a Mooney airplane, aluminum corrosion was a common concern with owners of our older aircraft. Many of these are still in service after 40 or more years. The first plane I owned (a 1962 M20C) is now 52 years old and is still being used frequently and happily by the fellow who bought it. However, there were documented stories about other fantastic looking airplanes that were scrapped due to hidden corrosion, especially in the aluminum laminated wing spars where the moisture would seep between layers.

Living in Arizona means we had less concern, but there were still indications of filiform corrosion on simple seams on and under the wings. I expect our aluminum bodied coachwork is also subject to corrosion but we don't have a licensed mechanic trying really hard to find signs of it every year.

The most common treatments were Corrosion X, Boeshield T9, and ACF-50. Near the coastal areas it was commonly recommended to have the airplanes treated every year. I'd do it on purchase and then 'touch up' critical areas every year or two.

These products can be purchased in small consumer quantities. Personally, I had a preference for Corrosion X as it seemed to seep into seams better and 'treat' existing corrosion.

Anyway, if you live in a humid area or near the coast with an aluminum body vehicle, you may want to consider a corrosion treatment. The only downside I ever had was the occasional 'seeping' for a couple months after application. If you are applying underneath the car that should not be a big issue. If you take the interior door panels off every year and pour oil into the bottom of your doors as my grandfather did, you'll probably have a mess. Just like he did.

Here is a report on different corrosion treatments: http://www.tc.faa.gov/logistics/gran...6/96-g-001.pdf

Jim

 

Bilt hamber make excellent products come out top in loads of tests

 

On the annual inspections for aluminum aircraft, A&P mechanics use LPS3. Comes in a can and leaves a wax like film. If it works on aircraft that have been flying for 70 years...that's good enough for me!

 

Knowing what has corroded on my X350, (actually nothing really serious, to be frank, just unsightly), I have often wondered how planes on aircraft carriers survive. Constant salty water in crevices is very bad for aluminium. I suppose a rigorous inspection regime is the answer; something we tend not to do with autos.

 

+1 on the ACF50.. It worked wonders on my motorbike when I was UK based and would ride in all weathers. It really does protect all metals and stuff. It is relatively expensive but well worthwhile.
I never thought about using it here on my Jag though.