Hello,
I have not had a single issue with my air suspension since I got my beauty x6 years ago. Recently, I went into the mechanics to 'reboot" my left upper control arm ball joint and left rear link. Of course, he dismounted the height sensor. I noticed that after he put everything back, the car rose but not up to its full height. The issue has kept worsening and now the car doesn't rise up by much at the rear. The front also drops up to a certain. All four corners remain there and don't completely droop into the arches. Once I let the car run after starting, the compressor will raise the car a bit. I installed the BPA kit for the compressor about x5 or so years ago. Please have a look at the pics from my Icarsoft diagnostic. I am considering re calibration via SDD but need some shared insight first. Will be grateful.
Best,
Juls

 

And your air struts were last replaced WHEN?

Time for a hands-on, not 'scan tool', old-fashioned "bubble" test?

Top of front shocks generally start with a slow leak, extreme cold weather, only, and at any time after the five year mark.

They do not "self heal", thereafter.

 

"ECU in manufacturer sub-state" happens when you are in the middle of a calibration. The ECU reverts to sub-state to take in the new leveling data. You should also see an air compressor error on the dash too. If you interrupt the calibration, the ECU will remain in manufacturer sub-state and will need a new calibration to run full length. Nothing will work when sub-state error is thrown. No idea if the i930 can do a calibration... I use the V3.0 on my 2005 and fool it into thinking it's calibrating a 2006-2007 as 2005 is not supported for some reason...

 

I'd first verify that he properly reinstalled the height sensor.

 

Not sure it even needs the procedure?

Did my fronts, adhered to the procedure in the Bilstein video, even though using ECAT-less Suncore struts. 'Calibration' was done with a Metric-reading steel tape measure, per Bilstein.


Rears 'inbound' still "to do", but their video is still the same. Tape-measure.


Note that the ignition is OFF, but the battery is NOT disconnected.

An Arnott video gets that part wrong (and not-only).

Perhaps THEN there is a need for Scan-Tool calibration?

I've subsequently also swapped-in a new H8 battery. No effect on the suspension.

 

Thanks Jason.
This is true. I abandoned the calibration after the compressor kept cycling non-stop because both rear shocks wouldn't inflate. I clear the sub-state by activating the customer mode via SDD.

 

Thanks. That is exactly what I had in mind today after I got some time. Unfortunately, the rear shock burst as I jacked up the car at the jacking point.

 

'In the meantime.."

Dunno how hard or easy - or fast or slow - your "supply chain" is in Uganda, but.. whilst out mentally farting about trying to decide whether to stick with Bil$tein$ or 'risk' lesser air struts, I acquired a set of four MaxPee DingRods coil-over struts.
Mere months ago, those coilovers were under US$ 300 the set of four. That maker / marketer, and several others have BETTER coilovers, but these are at least known to the community to work "OK."

"Calibration" is done with spanners - included. I'd guess under one hour per each corner to install... even less time to remove if/as/when new air struts can be had.

'Just for temporary..?" Or start with better ones if NOT just temporary. There are plenty of threads on that.

Fairly easy to migrate back and forth, regardless, so long as you leave the plumbing and sensors etc. "in place".

 

Kindest thanks Bill. Very handy tips!

 

Good luck with finding a replacement shock!
My initial suspeision would also be a height sensor. I had the C2302 levelling plausibility error a few months ago, as well, and could fix it by replacing a rear height sensor.

Best regards,
Thomas

 

Thanks Thomas for the feedback. Indeed I was wrong about the "bursting". I reckon the damper shield got torn earlier on before the moment when I jacked up the car. It appears to me that the sensor failed progressively. All the air shocks hold their height with our dropping. I have determined that the valve block and the reservoir are leak free. It is amazing how this car's suspension is quite simple. Few components. I bet it runs off the ASM module software' backbone for the most part.

I have noticed that after the engine has ran from cold for circa x2 minutes, pushing down on the corner with a sensor gets the compressor running. X2 of the corners consistently give this result. The corner with the torn damper shield doesn't lead to this outcome. So, I am going to start with a replacement height sensor then decide about the damper after that point. I have also considered the compressor but having done the BPA kit job am a wee bit skeptical about that direction...

Thanks again,
J

 

I woukd do th esam in your place... good luck!

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Thanks so much for the support and encouragement. Makes this forum such a dependable place.
best,
Julius

 

My Jag once refused to fully raise for two weeks. It started to lift and went down after one minute after engine start.
I searched for leaks but didn't find any.
At the end, I opened the valve block by removing the pressure sensor.
Lots of water came out. This could be explained, as my last drive was under extreme rain conditions (10m of sight for more than 1 hour).
After plugging the pressure sensor back in, everythink worked perfect again.

I did all the evaluations with SDD, so I recalibrated the height, just for fun. It's pretty straight forward.
But as you allready wrote, a system, which can keep a stable height is mandatory for calibration.

 

Thanks. My latest corner check seems to categorically nail a leaky air strut which appears to lose pressure in the course of a rising motion.

See: