Wheel Bearings
Hi. On my 2009 VDP I would like to replace the wheel bearings but not quite sure how. I have the bearings for replacement, not the whole assembly. After undoing all the control arms, brakes/rotors I am not sure of the next steps. I have tools but not sure if there is a special tool needed.
Could use a hand. Thanks. Peter
Could use a hand. Thanks. Peter
I replaced mine as an assembly, the front ones that is.
At $75 a set, with a ten year warranty, did them on both cars, as preventive maintenance.
As for the rears, look in the shop manual for instruction.
Others should chime in on information that have been down this road.
At $75 a set, with a ten year warranty, did them on both cars, as preventive maintenance.
As for the rears, look in the shop manual for instruction.
Others should chime in on information that have been down this road.
"Also, I did try to remove the large nut holding on the hub, but it wouldn't give even with a breaker bar. I was turning counter clockwise"
They can very tight you will need an impact driver if you can get it in there.
They can very tight you will need an impact driver if you can get it in there.
Hi Peterinio,
Replacing the bearings in the hubs requires a hydraulic press and appropriate cups and ram attachments, so it's not a job for the average do-it-yourselfer. You will find it much easier to replace the entire hub. I've used the ones from Detroit Axle on several X350s/X358s. They appear to be of the same quality as the original hubs and they come with new wheel speed sensors already installed. As Wingrider said, it's less than $100 for a pair of them. You may need to contact Detroit Axle to confirm fitment - the eBay vehicle fitment charts are not always complete. You can look up part numbers at jaguarclassicparts.com
If you don't have the Workshop Manual, you can download it from the How To Quick Links thread on the home page of this X350/X358 forum.
Cheers,
Don
Replacing the bearings in the hubs requires a hydraulic press and appropriate cups and ram attachments, so it's not a job for the average do-it-yourselfer. You will find it much easier to replace the entire hub. I've used the ones from Detroit Axle on several X350s/X358s. They appear to be of the same quality as the original hubs and they come with new wheel speed sensors already installed. As Wingrider said, it's less than $100 for a pair of them. You may need to contact Detroit Axle to confirm fitment - the eBay vehicle fitment charts are not always complete. You can look up part numbers at jaguarclassicparts.com
If you don't have the Workshop Manual, you can download it from the How To Quick Links thread on the home page of this X350/X358 forum.
Cheers,
Don
I have looked online and it's difficult to find rear wheel hub and bearing assemblies let-alone $100 for two. Also, I noticed in the shop manual that the hub nut is tightened to 300 NM or 221 lbs. I do have an impact wrench but I don't think it goes up that high. Peter
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I have looked online and it's difficult to find rear wheel hub and bearing assemblies let-alone $100 for two. Also, I noticed in the shop manual that the hub nut is tightened to 300 NM or 221 lbs. I do have an impact wrench but I don't think it goes up that high. Peter
You should not tighten the hub nut with an impact wrench, but only with a torque wrench that can measure up to 250 ft. lbs. You can probably rent one from a local auto parts store. Note that the Workshop Manual procedure involves installing the old hub nut and tightening it to 150 Nm, then removing the old hub nut and discarding it. Install a new hub nut and tighten to 150 Nm. After all the components are reconnected to the wheel knuckle and the brake disc is reinstalled, the hub nut is torqued to 300 Nm. This is easier if you reinstall the wheel without its center cap and lower the vehicle.
The outer tie rod nut and lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut should only be tightened and torqued once the wheel is reinstalled and the vehicle is lowered so that its weight has fully loaded the suspension.
You can download the Workshop Manual in the HOW TO Quick Links thread on the home page of this X350 forum.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Sep 16, 2019 at 08:00 PM.
The rear bearings do require a press. OE Timken bearings run about $24.00 each plus tax and shipping at Rock Auto.
You should not tighten the hub nut with an impact wrench, but only with a torque wrench that can measure up to 250 ft. lbs. You can probably rent one from a local auto parts store. Note that the Workshop Manual procedure involves installing the old hub nut and tightening it to 150 Nm, then removing the old hub nut and discarding it. Install a new hub nut and tighten to 150 Nm. After all the components are reconnected to the wheel knuckle and the brake disc is reinstalled, the hub nut is torqued to 300 Nm. This is easier if you reinstall the wheel without its center cap and lower the vehicle.
The outer tie rod nut and lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut should only be tightened and torqued once the wheel is reinstalled and the vehicle is lowered so that its weight has fully loaded the suspension.
You can download the Workshop Manual in the HOW TO Quick Links thread on the home page of this X350 forum.
Cheers,
Don
You should not tighten the hub nut with an impact wrench, but only with a torque wrench that can measure up to 250 ft. lbs. You can probably rent one from a local auto parts store. Note that the Workshop Manual procedure involves installing the old hub nut and tightening it to 150 Nm, then removing the old hub nut and discarding it. Install a new hub nut and tighten to 150 Nm. After all the components are reconnected to the wheel knuckle and the brake disc is reinstalled, the hub nut is torqued to 300 Nm. This is easier if you reinstall the wheel without its center cap and lower the vehicle.
The outer tie rod nut and lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut should only be tightened and torqued once the wheel is reinstalled and the vehicle is lowered so that its weight has fully loaded the suspension.
You can download the Workshop Manual in the HOW TO Quick Links thread on the home page of this X350 forum.
Cheers,
Don
I found that after the completing the final hub nut torque, it was easier to remove the wheel, lower the car with blocking under the suspension to load the suspension, and then torquing the suspension nuts under load. It's hard to get a torque wrench in there with the tire on. Also, could I use the word "suspension" any more in one sentence?
The final torque on the hub nut will put a hurtin on you!
The final torque on the hub nut will put a hurtin on you!
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