Hi,



This has probably been mentioned before, especially as I have had it on my X308 and now my X350, but you would think Jaguar would have sorted this out as it has the potential to be a pretty serious problem.


The Wheel nuts are in 2 parts, a cast nut covered by a chromed cover, which can become detached, I recently had 2 new front tyres fitted and the guys had no problems removing and refitting the front nuts, while about a week later I removed the rear wheels to fit mud flaps and check the rear brakes, and had trouble with every nut, with 1 cover detaching completely.



I say "Jaguar", but in reality this is a ford problem, Like I say, I have had the same thing happen with the X308 and also the Ford Mondeo's, which are fitted with the very same style of nuts, If I remember correctly, the workaround for the Mondeo problem was to replace the nuts with the nuts from a Focus, which are 1 piece, solid, and almost as "chromed" as the 2 piece ones, I will be checking to see if the same nuts fit the Jaguar and if so I will replace every last one. I remember spending an entire day grinding off the nuts from a Mondeo and having to replace the studs as well as the nuts, because some muppet had used what I can only assume to be a 10 foot long breaker bar with the entire New Zealand All Blacks Line up swinging from it to "torque" them up. As soon as those covers detach you have a problem. with the nut underneath usually just being a blob of rust.

 

First thing I did when I bought my Super V8 and my XK was to buy Toyota Lugs. Just remember to put a different lug wrench in the trunk if you do.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-PC-TOYOT...item41cc37b32d

 

That what I did also. But maybe we are not holding our mouth right. I talked to Brutal and he pulls wheels off x350’s every day. They use the factory lugs and he like using an English and not a metric wrench because it fits looser. Allows the lug nut to fall out after unscrewing. He said he never fights the metal cap.
Mine were rusted junk, but came off easy.
Do not overtorgue. I cranked mine up because the wheels shimmied after hitting small pavement irregularities. Stripped one at about 110 ft-lbs. Replaced the stud.
Miracles are real, shimming may have been tires. Went away. Checked everywhere and never identified the cause. Felt like shot tie rod ends, this was after replacement.

 

Thanks Sean W, I Have ordered a full set from Ebay, should be here in a few days.


Panelhead, I know, some people have no problems ever with these nuts, but they get me pretty much every time, I never use a windy gun to tighten them up always a torque wrench when I have one, but if not, I finish them by hand tightening. i once picked up a car cos the owner said his CV joint was knocking, I drove it about 50 yards, and had to stop, the Wheel was literally being pulled out of my hand and the whole car was shaking, I got it towed in, cos I thought a CV joint was about to let go, turned out to be a really badly buckled tyre.

 

If everyone's guy at the tire shop were like Brutal, it wouldn't be a concern, but they don't hold a candle to him.

 

No issues for me with the Jaguar lug nuts. But switching to Toyota's was a practical move on my part. As mentioned getting tires can become an issue, that i just wanted to avoid. My tire machine is for motorcycle tires, & a manual one to boot. Tires on the car would be too much for my old body to attempt to change myself!

 

I know what you mean, I have used a manual machine to change tyres definitely gives you a workout, but try it on the floor, with just a couple of tyre levers and a lot of brute force, that separates the men from the boys.


Anyway, new nuts came this morning, so I now have New rear discs and pads and a full set of nuts to change over. was getting a bit of vibration from the left rear, Car went through its MOT ( road worthiness test ) just last week and passed with no brake issues, I'm going down the route of it being a warped disc, I could feel a bit of heat in the left rear wheel after even a short run, so the other day I popped the rears off and checked it out, pads on the left rear are down twice as much as the right, so I assume something was sticking, but all seemed free when I had the wheels off, I could turn the hub by hand, so it can;t be too bad a stick, I have found in the past it that if the carriers and slides are not cleaned properly when changing brake pads that the pads can drag or even stick completely, I hope this is the case here, if not, it's either a sticky caliper, or handbrake cable. and considerably more expensive.

 

Changed MANY motorcycle tires with two tire spoons, dish soap,sweat, grunt, & muscle. Manual tire changer was all i could almost afford, & has served me well, has changed a bunch for me as well as many others.