I removed the trunk latch/actuator from my car since none of the switches did anything (the trunk switch, interior switch and remote). No clicking noise or anything. The trunk worked fine manually (using the key).

So, I am trying to bench test this to see if indeed it is a bad unit or whether there is an electrical wiring problems. Has anyone done this? My suspicion is that if you put 12V across the actuator it should lock (or unlock) and if you reverse polarity, it should do the opposite. However, that does not happen when I do that. Just a bunch of static noise.... anyone has done this?

 

I had the exact same thing happen to me about six months back. It ended up being a loose connector: the one that the actuator would plug into under the trunk lid lining. I would try hooking it back up and see if the dash button, remote or the trunk buttons work. I believe the plunger on the the truck lower lip also has to be depressed (imitating the trunk is closed).

I hope it ends up being as simple as that.

 

Several other models have a similar issue due to the harness breaking at the point where it is continually bending as the lid is opened and closed.

You photo doesn't show where the harness emerges from the lid so I've taken this drawing from the Workshop Manual:



Check for damage or a break at the point arrowed in red.

Graham

 

I wish it was. I plugged it back in and it made that horrible grinding noise similar to the one that was made when I was bench testing it. It looks like a replacement is in order.

 

Graham, thanx for the pointer. That was what the research had shown but those wires look in perfect condition. It look like I have a genuinely bad actuator (see my preceeding post)

 

Ouch!

From the grinding noise, possibly another of the plastic drives Jaguar love so much has stripped.

Even a used item is expensive. Here's one I found listed on ebay from a specialist Jaguar breaker in the UK:

JAGUAR X350 BOOT LOCK | eBay

Can't find anyone outside the dealer network on either side of the Atlantic who is listing a new one in stock.

Graham

 

Lagonia,
Sorry to hear the simple fix suggestions did not work out. When I had my issue, I did enquire with the deal on the price of the unit and I was given $350+. That is a substantial bit of change, that is why I had started to see what I could do for a fix and I just happened to stumble upon the loose connector.
One other thought, and I do not know if it plays a role or not, but here it is, and perhaps someone more knowledgeable can step in... Is the trunk internal release cable, that is also on the solenoid and attaches to the plastic t-handle, 'in'? As opposed to being pulled and stuck in the extended position. Just a shot-in-the-dark to save a few bucks...

 

Nash, I am convinced it is the actuator. I checked the two cables - one going to the lock mechanism and the one going to the emergency t-handle and they look fine. There are at least three on-line jaguar dealers that actually sell this brand new lock and the price ranges from $190 - $250 approximately. I just have to bite the bullet if I want an electrically operated boot

 

There is one in Germany chaps, used with a garauntee.

Offers on 90 euros!

You can knock off 20 % tax for a start if shipped from EU.

jaguar x350 koffer motor | eBay

 

This problem has been resolved. It was indeed the trunk latch actuator. I got a brand new one from Gaudin Jaguar Parts. It was a bit shy of $180. Shipping was crazy fast. I think it was two or three days. Works like a charm now!!!

 

Thanks! this is the problem with mine. I can squeeze the harness and get the latch to work...Its working fine now but I will have to chase down the bad wire...

 

I have a 2004 Vanden Plas with same symptoms. Does anyone know which fuse is tied to this circuit? It's not clear in the original drivers handbook. There's 3 fuse boxes, Engine, Cabin, and Trunk. Thanks for any help. Since I was in the trunk I tested each fuse with a multi meter and they were all good. The ones in the cabin are harder to get to so thought I'd ask here to see if anyone knew which fuse this is.

Also I've removed the liner to access the actuator, however the plastic trim plate is a bit stubborn, so thought I'd ask the method to remove it before I broke it! LOL. I've removed the plastic push fasteners.

 

The plastic trim is a PITA to get off but it does come off with a bit of wiggling and pulling.