tHE ENGINE MOUNTED CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON THE sensor side it"s self will read as a fundamental reading of 1300 ohms

It'S A CLASSIC INDUCTOR SO THE FUNTIONAL SIGNAL IS A SQUIRED SINE WAVE ON THE PROPER TEST EQUEPMENT

the T codes vs.P codes

The P0335 CODE DOES NOT ALWAYS SHOW

keyboard still messed up

 

The tip of the CKPS CAN HAVE GRIMe ON IT WITH METEL PARTICALS IN THE GRIMe MASKING THE GEAR TEETH inductence FORCE

SOMEONE ACTUALLY HAD 2 MISSING RING GEAR TEETH ( RELUNTOR )

1360 ohms is in range so we look at the engine ECU connectors

 

bLACK 23 AND bLACK 26

tHE WIRES ARE SHEILDED AND THE GROUND STUD IS .........................at PIG153L which is at...................................firewaal bulkhead left side small stud

The ECU HAS A DEDICATED CASE GROUND STRAP ON the ECU mounting bolts

Look for missing pinching female connector finger / sockets that pinch the male blade pins

 

@Vee It did go into limp mode I suppose but it didn't even want to limp home. I had to get it towed. Yeah from the looks of things a proper scanner would be a good investment. But honestly donating it to a deserving cause might be a serious consideration.
@Parker 7 thanks so much for all the info. I will tackle them one by one. Based on the measured resistance, you dont think that the CPS is the culprit? I took it out and inspected it. It didn't look too dirty.

 

There is a history of the ECU connectors getting corrosion behind the sockets you can't see

there are some spare sockets in the connectors

 

Hi Omid,

Here are the definitions and published possible causes of the DTCs you scanned:






And here is a helpful explanation from the Transmissions Service Training Course:



P1775 is listed in the Engine Management Systems DTC Summaries and appears to be triggered by the Engine Control Module (ECM) in response to any of several transmission issues.

P0727 is not listed in the Engine Management Systems DTC Summaries, but it is listed in the Transmission Control DTC Summaries, so we can deduce that it is triggered by the Transmission Control Module (TCM). It is flagged when the engine speed signal indicates less than 95 rpm in any gear except P or N and the transmission output speed is greater than 300 rpm. This suggests that P0727 will be triggered if the engine stalls while the vehicle is moving. When P0727 is triggered by the TCM, the ECM recognizes a transmission fault and triggers P1775.

So your problem may or may not be transmission-related at all. It may just be that the engine stalling while the vehicle is moving is triggering these transmission-related codes.

I say "may or may not be" in the above sentence because as I mentioned in post #8, low transmission fluid has been associated with engine stalling when slowing to turn or stop. To check the fluid level, drive the car for 15 minutes or more to get the fluid to full operating temperature, then park on a level surface and leave the engine running. Set the hand brake. Depress the brake pedal and shift the gear selector lever through all gear positions (PRND32), holding each position for at least 3 seconds. This fills all the passages in the valve body to assure a correct fluid level measurement. Put the lever back in Park and check the fluid level. It should be exactly at the hot max line. Even a pint low or high can cause issues. Observe the color of the fluid - it should be a transparent red, and it should not have a burned smell.

Also try xalty's suggestion of disconnecting the IACV stepper motor after the engine has warmed up and drive the car to see if it stalls.

There are many potential causes of intermittent engine stalling, including an internally-leaking brake booster, a failing crankshaft position sensor (CKPS); a clogged air filter; contaminated fuel; a clogged fuel filter; a failing fuel pump, fuel pump relay or fuel pump wiring; problems with the throttle position sensor (TPS) or Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) as xalty mentioned; corrosion on various ground points including those referenced by the Engine Management System and the engine ground strap; a vacuum leak (although this will typically trigger a lean code); a seizing belt-driven component bogging down the engine; worn spark plugs; low compression due to worn rings or valve problems; etc. Sometimes a vehicle suffers from more than one of these conditions.

Again I would ask, how long since the last good tune-up? For me, this includes spark plugs (use the proper and cheap Champion RC12YC - nothing else seems to work any better), air filter, fuel filter, cleaning the throttle body and IACV, cleaning the oily sludge out of the crankcase breathing plumbing, cleaning all engine bay ground points including both ends of the engine ground strap, inspecting and cleaning the engine bay electrical connectors including the connector for the CKPS and Parker's favorite "Papa Indy" connectors, checking for ignition coil arcing and checking all coil wires for deteriorating insulation, changing the transmission filter and fluid (using only a proper Dexron III equivalent such as Mobil 1 ATF, Redline Oil D4 ATF, or Valvoline Dex/Merc non-synthetic in the blue bottle (not the synthetic version in the red bottle): other supposedly backward-compatible fluids such as Dexron VI or Valvoline Maxlife Multi-Vehicle ATF have viscosities that are far too low for the ZF 4HP24 transmission), check the condition and tension of the drive belts, clean all the power and ground connections between the battery in the trunk to the false bulkhead, alternator and starter in the engine bay, and add a 20 ounce bottle of Techron Concentrate Plus fuel system cleaner and a bottle of Heet fuel dryer to a full tank of gas. This level of maintenance will often cure or prevent various engine malfunctions.

Cheers,

Don

 

From my own experience, a failed "Fuel pressure regulator" may display similar symptoms, car will run ok at 70/90 kph but when slowing and dropping to idle speeds will stumble and stall due to severe over fueling. Nothing to do with transmission, light comes on due to stall condition.
A fuel pressure test may assist.

John Herbert
(1996 XJR)

 

Your reasoning is the codes presented are the end result of the engine hitting a spot of stumble

A FPR check would be if the diaphragm is leaking allowing fuel to be witnessed in the FPR vacuum line

In practice you may not be able to detect a fluid in the line

Be careful to not twist the line on the fuel rail

FPR 43 PSI at idle and goes up to 46 on throttle up with increasing vacuum

 

A good fuel injector cleaner may be in order as a easy try and to bring them in spape and not dragging

The Chevron ( Tectron ) product is recommended by others

Weakening fuel pump system ? You can jumper across the relay but drains the battery with your keys in your pocket

voltage regulator staying stable during engine speed let down ? It's been seen before and makes the dependent sensors act out of range

Idle performance was improved by cleaning the EGR poppet valve of carbon as the EGR has a valve position sensor unlike the IAC

Your EGR _ ERROR parameter ID is target value 0 % in all ranges

Short term fuel trim bank 1 and 2 target value of 0.0

 

Excellent information guys.
I will go thru each and every item. Start with the CKPS and work my way down.
This car has had a very easy life only 69000 miles on it. It was very well maintained by the previous owner. i can see that the transmission fluid looks very clear and at proper level.
When the car actually runs it runs very smooth. Idles very nicely and engine sounds great.
Will definitely go over things myself and check the items you guys have mentioned.
The over-fueling bit is very interesting. I never felt that the car was running rich or anything but I will check the fuel pressure.
Thanks again. Will be sure to post my findings
Thanks very much

 

Fuel pressure is hrad to check with the fittings involved

There is a T adaptor that someone found

I;m a big believer in good engine grounds including the engine block ground strap on the starter mounting bolts and the ECU ground strap

Innova makes a coil tester they use to keep in the back room at O'Reilly's

 

Hi guys
I got the CKPS and installed it, cleared the codes and drove for about 40 miles. No check engine light and no surging. Looks like that was the problem.
I did check the fuel pressure its right at about 40 psi.
I want to thank all you guys for your valuable information and hopefully the knowledge that I have gained will help me keep her on the road.
I am really hoping to get a few years out of this car.

 

Change the fuel pump relay and inspect the connector on the pump motor for burnt contacts

Your fuel pump may be on the way out and it will burn the contacts inside the relay as it goes , a new relay may give the pump a little more serviceable life

 

That is the next task. The gas tank must have some small pin holes or something and I can smell faint raw gas. I have tried to find a good used tank but cant find one. The junk yard here in Phoenix has a bunch of Jags but they are all stacked on top of each other. The guy tells me to come and pull it out myself (he is too busy pulling and selling engines for $5000) for $500 and he says that does not include the sending unit or the pump assembly. The guy was some piece of work. I think @Parker 7 had suggested an outfit that reconditions tanks and the fellow quoted me $1000. I am thinking about putting a 17 gallon fuel cell with an inline fuel pump. Thats going to cost a heck of a lot less but definitely lot more work for me.
Any way thanks to all the friends who chimed in to sort out this CKPS issue.
Much regards

 

See page 77