1995 XJR NSS/Linear switch adjustment and not in park switch clean
Made a video of this project. My XJR6 was requiring me to jiggle the gearshift to get the car to acknowledge it was in park and start. Hope people can use it. This is the first job I have done on the car since getting it.
Cheers, Nick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfzX...ature=youtu.be
Cheers, Nick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfzX...ature=youtu.be
Thank you for that, nickguy. Useful information. Like so many jobs on the Jaguars, the adjustments are simple, in theory. I have basically the same setup in the XJ12. I just completed a replacement of the Park microswitch and adjusted the Linear swtich.
When I replaced the Park microswitch, the Linear switch got moved slightly. After re-assembly, my illumination of D/D and 2 was not reliable. So a couple of weeks ago I took the console apart again and attempted to access to the two screws on the side of the Linear switch. Not easy. A bit of the correct type in a 1/4" closed end wrench was able to manipulate the screws. Lots of fiddling. Dropped the bit numerous times. The adjustment was delicate but now I finally have a good Park microswitch AND correct gear illumination!
The screws for the Linear switch and also the gear face plate are the type with a phillips head that have the 4 small additional barbs. Not torx bits. Labeled "PZ" on the bits. Not sure if that is what you refer to as "posidrive". After adjusting and re-tightening the Linear switch, I'd suggest trying all of the gear positions before putting the console back together. Lube things up while you are in there too. And be sure to have a small stick magnet to pick up the bit or the screws when they fall in!
The Park microswitch is riveted from the underside of the thick metal plate and I couldn't drill out the rivets. I simply used force to remove the switch and rivets, which came out a little bit at a time (literally). A combination of prying, tapping, twisting, etc. It was very tedious. This is after taking the console apart twice previously, to spray clean the switch in place, which did not resolve the intermittent operation.
Then I found out that my replacement Park microswitch wasn't an exact match - the mounting holes were not aligned with the holes in the metal plate. So a creative attachment method was invented that involved one new screw and some intricate bending of stiff wire to hold it in place.
All in all, tedious but worthwhile repairs. We go the distance with our Jaguars!
When I replaced the Park microswitch, the Linear switch got moved slightly. After re-assembly, my illumination of D/D and 2 was not reliable. So a couple of weeks ago I took the console apart again and attempted to access to the two screws on the side of the Linear switch. Not easy. A bit of the correct type in a 1/4" closed end wrench was able to manipulate the screws. Lots of fiddling. Dropped the bit numerous times. The adjustment was delicate but now I finally have a good Park microswitch AND correct gear illumination!
The screws for the Linear switch and also the gear face plate are the type with a phillips head that have the 4 small additional barbs. Not torx bits. Labeled "PZ" on the bits. Not sure if that is what you refer to as "posidrive". After adjusting and re-tightening the Linear switch, I'd suggest trying all of the gear positions before putting the console back together. Lube things up while you are in there too. And be sure to have a small stick magnet to pick up the bit or the screws when they fall in!
The Park microswitch is riveted from the underside of the thick metal plate and I couldn't drill out the rivets. I simply used force to remove the switch and rivets, which came out a little bit at a time (literally). A combination of prying, tapping, twisting, etc. It was very tedious. This is after taking the console apart twice previously, to spray clean the switch in place, which did not resolve the intermittent operation.
Then I found out that my replacement Park microswitch wasn't an exact match - the mounting holes were not aligned with the holes in the metal plate. So a creative attachment method was invented that involved one new screw and some intricate bending of stiff wire to hold it in place.
All in all, tedious but worthwhile repairs. We go the distance with our Jaguars!
Typical unthinking English engineering with the linear switch - 2 phillips head bolts in a position not easily accessed by a screwdriver, even the angle type.
My simple solution replace them with suitable hex head bolts for much easier access with a spanner.
John Herbert
(1996 XJR)
My simple solution replace them with suitable hex head bolts for much easier access with a spanner.
John Herbert
(1996 XJR)
At the risk of a little bit of thread drift, "posidrive" is exactly what you describe, ie a Phillips head with small additional barbs. If memory serves, it was a proprietary variation of philips heads, and was marketed originally as a "new, improved" type of screw and a reason to upgrade all of your screwdrivers. Astonishingly, if I recall correctly, it was a screwdriver manufacturer (Stanley?) who "invented" it. In practice a normal Phillips screwdriver does the trick in 99.99% of instances.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...le+screwdriver
Useful 3 buck right angle screwdriver tool for these type of tight clearances. I've ground some of the screwdriver tip socket ends down to sneak this into tight spots. Thanks for very useful thread!
Last edited by olivermarks; Mar 2, 2021 at 07:14 PM.
Pulled my switch out this morning and the circuit board inside was covered in moisture corrosion, cleaned it with Iso Alcohol and then cleaned the moving parts and switches on the other side with plenty of iso. Plugged it in and worked first time. I was getting no P light in any position before and only got N in one very specific place.
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