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Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
I have moved your post from the forum for the X350 to the forum for the X300, which is the Jaguar factory project code for your 1996 XJ6. Here you will find knowledgeable owners of similar cars.
On your inline 6-cylinder engine, Bank 1 is cylinders 1-3 (starting at the front of the engine), and Bank 2 is cylinders 4-6.
Regarding the fault code P0152, below are the likely causes from the DTC Summaries guide, which you can download at this link:
Also, please visit the New Member Area Intro A Must and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.
cheaper then the original Denso , and is connector ready .
Copy of a reply to another reader :
May or may not be aware of the connector ready Bosch # 13789 equivalent to the Denso and it would save you some big money . Spark plug Autolite #4163 has the correct 12 mm crush washers if they are missing . Anti - seize is not a bad idea for in service removal , careful not to get too much on and contaminating the sensor . Proper connector hookup to the correct connector is important and may be a source of problems although I have not experienced it myself . On the AJ16 engine the #1 cylinder is the forward most position ( opposite of the AJ6 ? ) . So the B1S1 ( bank 1 sensor 1 ) is on that pipe forward of the forward Cat . B1S2 is aft . On the ECU side of the connectors they have the same wire colors with exception of the one important return signal wire to the ECU . B1S1 Green , B2S1 Brown , B1S2 Blue , B2S2 Red . Not to be confused with the term orientation as this is a requirement to have the Jaguar shop " match " the changed sensors with the ECU under certain ( unknown to me ) conditions . Some readers may already know this but this information is for others that are new to this . Hope this helps some people . The old original sensors can be cleaned or refresh to possibly give you more service life by soaking overnight in some gasoline ( small baby food jar ) periodically tapping out softly against your hand and re-soaking a couple of times . Don't get the wires wet . Seafoam product seamed like a good idea ( their label says it is safe ) but I was able to get so much deposits out there may not have been anything left to clean . The sensors can be bench tested with a propane ( not high temp welding ) torch to get them to operating temp and deprive them of the O2 which then can be read with a digital multimeter . But then again they could be " out of range " . Look for some corrosion of the B1S2 and B2S2 connectors behind the back of the valve cover .
_________________
Lady P . is a 1996 4.0 N/A Sovereign 110k miles ( 7/31/17 )
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-11-2017 at 02:57 AM.
The O2 sensors play a key roll in how much fuel is charged into the cylinder being too much or too little
Do you have specific information that you have a bad O2 sensor with a CEL code ?
The easier things to check first as the overall engine regulation are :
Starting with the O2 sensors :
The sensor connectors can get crossed as they are the same connector , this will have an effect until the engine relearns and adjust to the suttle differences in a in service sensor
The sensor connectors can get corroded effecting the very sensitive signal back to the ECU
The sensitive return wire ( in colors on the pic ) is sheilded to protect it from external EMF that would corrupt the signal
The sheilds require a good ground to protect the signal wire inside center
The specific ground studs are on the firewall as the small multi wire termination
Clean with a wire brush both the car frame and the wire terminals
While cleaning grounds there are 2 more on the car frame rail that runs under the air filter and the same on the right side rail
Te ground overloooked is under the car as the large engine block ground to the car frame
Best gotten from underneath with a 16 mm socket on the starter mounting bolt and a 8 or 10 mm on the car frame bolt
This large ground will cause some funny problems with engine regulation
Some connectors that are important and to be cleaned are :
ECT
MAF
TPS
The 2 connectors in the second pic have several wires running through them for engine regulation that gets corroded to the point there was a Jaguar TSB to address them
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 08-29-2019 at 10:11 PM.
Will a faulty O2 sensor on 1996 XJ6 cause the engine to stall?
Hi bensamuels69,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us!
Problems with O2 sensors do not usually cause stalling. Perhaps you could help us give you more specific input if you could give us more background. As Lady P asks, have you scanned for diagnostic trouble codes, and if so, can you please post all of them here exactly as they appear?
What are the symptoms surrounding the stalling? Did they develop over time, or come on suddenly? Does it stall only when cold or only when hot? Does it stall only while idling? Does it stall while slowing to make a turn or stop? Does it stall while accelerating? Have you recently purchased petrol, and if so, is i possible it was contaminated with water?
When you get a chance, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.
I was surfing the threads about XJ 6 x300 1996 engine stalling. My jag stalls at multiple times . even when warm, as I decelerate at a light the RPMS fall until it stalls. I have to drive with the left foot on the brake and the right on the gas pedal to keep the RPMs up above 700. This happens about 20% of the time. When the engine is in neutral or park the RPMS ususlly hold at 700. Initially when I start it the RPMs will drop just below 500 and then increase to 700 quickly and hold there if it is in Park. Engaging to drive is problematic with the RPMs dropping to stall 1 in 5 times. Any ideas??
Lots of things can cause the stalling you describe. But top of the checklist should be cleaning the Throttle Body. Try that and see what happens. Lots of threads on here about that so you should find some guidance. Report back if still a problem after the clean.
If you have a multimeter if would be worth testing the coolant temperature sensor by the thermostat.
I had many poor engine running issues caused by this sensor giving spurious readings.
Here’s the expected resistance values
Was that both O2 sensors? Mine did have stalling issues but seems to have settled after cleaning the throttle body, but still getting only low 20’s mpg?
I am not having any real issues with performance except for the MPG'S and acceleration but I was wondering if it would not hurt to go ahead and replace the O2 sensors on my 1997? If so is there only two or is there 4. I tried to look online at a parts site and could not tell. It just had a picture of the sensor. Does anyone have a recommendation?
I am not having any real issues with performance except for the MPG'S and acceleration but I was wondering if it would not hurt to go ahead and replace the O2 sensors on my 1997? If so is there only two or is there 4. I tried to look online at a parts site and could not tell. It just had a picture of the sensor. Does anyone have a recommendation?
Hi Phil,
Your U.S.-spec 1997 X300 has four heated oxygen sensors (HO2S), two upstream of the catalytic converters, and two downstream. It won't hurt to replace them, but some diagnostics might help you avoid spending money unnecessarily and not actually resolving your concerns.
It would be worth having the vehicle scanned with a diagnostic scan tool capable of viewing the Live Data to view the fuel trims and sensor outputs at various engine speeds to see if any seem to be out of range or implausible. You may find, for example, that part of your problem is that the coolant thermostat is stuck open or the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) signal is stuck at cold, causing the engine control module (ECM) to continue applying cold-start fuel enrichment even after the engine is hot, leading to rich running and reduced performance and fuel economy.
There are may other possibilities, such as an out-of-range mass air flow sensor (MAFS), worn spark plugs, skipped timing chain, clogged catalytic converter, etc. Good computer diagnostics may help narrow down the suspects and help you resolve the issues more quickly and at the lowest cost.
Your U.S.-spec 1997 X300 has four heated oxygen sensors (HO2S), two upstream of the catalytic converters, and two downstream. It won't hurt to replace them, but some diagnostics might help you avoid spending money unnecessarily and not actually resolving your concerns.
It would be worth having the vehicle scanned with a diagnostic scan tool capable of viewing the Live Data to view the fuel trims and sensor outputs at various engine speeds to see if any seem to be out of range or implausible. You may find, for example, that part of your problem is that the coolant thermostat is stuck open or the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) signal is stuck at cold, causing the engine control module (ECM) to continue applying cold-start fuel enrichment even after the engine is hot, leading to rich running and reduced performance and fuel economy.
There are may other possibilities, such as an out-of-range mass air flow sensor (MAFS), worn spark plugs, skipped timing chain, clogged catalytic converter, etc. Good computer diagnostics may help narrow down the suspects and help you resolve the issues more quickly and at the lowest cost.
Cheers,
Don
That is a great write up. I have a scan tool but I don't think that I can get that info. Maybe it is time I get a checkup from a mechanic. Every once in a while I get the notorious secondary air flow problem but I clear it and don't see it for a while. Also are they all the same part number
08-10-2017, 10:07 PM
