Hi
I get a double clunk from the rear when coming to a stop.
I was told by my mechanic that I have a 1/4 inch play in my rear wheels.
I need rear stub bearings.
He wants $350.00 per side for the repair.

I bookmarked the pdf hub carrier replacement.
I apologize for my ignorance but I have no experience with this repair.
Is it unusual to have to replace the rear stub axle as well?
I am guessing this pdf will assist me.

If anyone has diy experience with this repair guidance would be appreciated. If done recently by a mechanic a cost estimate.
A parts outlet would be appreciated too.

I did a Google search but it was not much help.

Thank you.

 

If there's 1/4" play then the bearing is really shot....and it may well have damaged the stub axle as well. If the problem had been caught sooner then stub axle replacment might not have been needed.

A bearing kit is about $100/side. Two bearings, two seals. Any of the Jag vendors have 'em. Or even Rock Auto etc

$350/side at a repair shop sounds reasonable to me. It isn't a hugely difficult job but it isn't a five minute thing, either.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Joedudejag,

The rear setup doesn't have a "stub axle" in the sense that the front does. It's a hub that slips onto the splined end of the halfshaft (axle). The hub is Part 1 in the diagram below:





The hub, bearings and seals are identified at this link:

Hub Carrier and Hub Assembly-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


The halfshaft is shown in this diagram:



From this link:

Halfshaft Assembly - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


It is very unusual, though not unknown, for a hub to be scored so badly that it cannot be reused. But I would think it unheard of to need both rear hubs, even with 1/4 inch of play. I would ask the mechanic to show me the damage on the old hubs before I paid for replacements.

This is a job that can be done by most do-it-yourselfers with moderate skills and basic tools. An inexpensive bearing driver kit from Harbor Freight (about $25) eases the installation of the new bearing races, but it's not mandatory. The old races can be ground down a bit and used to drive the new races in. For a knowledgeable mechanic, I would budget 1-2 hours per side and a total of about 3 hours for both sides. For a first timer, I would budget 2-3 hours for the first side, and around 1 - 1-1/2 hours for the second side.

The one tool required that you may not own is a torque wrench that can measure up to 250 ft-lbs for the axle nuts. Just torque them as high as you can, leave the wheel center caps out and take the car to a local shop to have them torque the nuts the rest of the way. Note the warning against reusing the axle/hub nuts, Part 7 in the top diagram above (Jaguar part number JZN100035). The nuts have a deforming thread insert to prevent them from loosening while driving, and they are torqued to more than 200 ft-lbs, which deforms the thread insert so much it cannot be reliably reused. I am aware of at least two reports of owners reusing the nuts and having them come loose while driving down the road!

Use the best high-temperature bearing grease you can find.

Below are links to photos of the entire job to replace the rear hub bearings and seals. The photos show our '93 XJ40, but the X300 is essentially identical:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


The bearings are common parts from SKF, Timken or Koyo, and are carried by all the good independent Jag specialists and many industrial supply houses. I've typically purchased the kits with both bearings and seals (JLM1708) from Coventry West or Welsh Enterprises for less than USD $50.00 per side, but check with forum sponsors SNG Barratt and Jagbits because they offer discounts to forum members. The axle nuts are about $25.00 each but a mandatory expense. There is no reason to pay more for the Jaguar-branded parts because the actual bearings inside the Jaguar box will be marked SKF, Timken or Koyo. Just buy the less-expensive aftermarket kit with the same parts (usually listed as JLM1708 with another character added to indicate aftermarket, such as #, * or &).

Cheers,

Don

 

could it perhaps be the u-joints?

you need to know exactly where the slop exists to avoid
replacing the wrong part.

 

+1

There's many possible sources of a 'clunk from the rear' and 'a 1/4 inch play in my rear wheels'.

What exactly has your mechanic diagnosed as the cause? Worn bearings are replaceable but failed Hub Carrier bearings can often damage the aluminium carrier.

Graham

 

Those single-use nuts are $25 ea.


$350/side is not a bad price, but you can DIY considerably cheaper. I agree with Graham you need to know the source. Worn Wheel bearings will result play in the wheel if you grasp it at top &bottom and try to move it (car supported on jackstand, wt off wheel) Worn u-joints should give a clunk when you shift from fwd to reverse and vice-versa. I suppose the bearings may clunk if you are stopping rapidly enough to cause significant weight transfer (nose dive) when the tail settles at the end of the maneuver?

 

You need to be sure of WHAT bearing(s) are being discussed. There are hub/wheel bearings and there are stub axle bearings in the diff output.

The rear upper control arm is actually the halfshaft. The diff output 'stub' axle has a deep groove ball bearing that can wear and cause problems. The camber will go negative as the bearing fails. You can check this by lifting the rear of the car and checking for movement of the rear wheel (camber pos/neg or toe in/toe out).

Grab the wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock to check for the stub axle bearing failure or 3 & 9 o'clock for wheel/hub bearing failure.

You should be able to see what is moving if there is 1/4" play.

bob gauff

 

xjay8 has some pictures in his album of how he checks for ujoint play on his
x308 in the halfshafts.

- lift and support vehicle
- apply handbrake hard to hold rear wheels still
- grasp halfshaft with channel lock pliers and attempt to wiggle/twist

any movement in the halfshaft is then isolated

i would accept a tiny bit of movement, but nothing gross.

others have seen where the grease has clogged in the rollers
closest to the grease fitting and the rollers have crumbled
while the other three further away are fine.

 

Thank you all for the help!

 

Joedudejag,

Bob makes a good point that worn differential output shaft bearings could possibly contribute to the play your mechanic noted, although 1/4 inch of play would be unusual unless the retaining collars have slipped down the shafts. Below is a link to photos of the diff output shaft bearing, collar and seal replacement. The shafts can be removed from the diff with the rear wheels/hubs in place; the axles just need to be disconnected from the diff output flanges. Note that for this job a small hydraulic press is required to remove the old collars and install the new ones, but a local auto machine shop can do that work at low cost:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


Cheers,

Don

 

define "double clunk"

is it more of a bang followed later by another bang?

that would point at the main rear suspension frame mounting bushes.

you get one bang when it comes away from the body as braking starts
and another one when it meets the body at the end of the stop.

 

The best way I could define the sound is as the cars momentum shifts when I come to a stop something that should be staying stable has play in it. What is throwing me is if it's the stub axle at the hub or the differential output does it makes sensethat the the sound is clearly happening twice a few seconds apart?

I would not describe it as having the clap or sharpness of a bang.
It is more of a thud or clunk.
It seems to comes from the rear passenger side first then the drivers side.
Obviously not sure of that just my perception.

What I am sure of is the more abruptly I come to a stop the louder the sound.
If I apply light brake pressure and glide to a stop if does not happen or the sound is much lower so that the noise is barely perceptible.

I don't hear anything under normal acceleration. I will try applying strong short taps to the accelerator to see if that produces any sound at all.

As I mentioned initially the mechanic did say I have a 1/4 inch play in the rear wheels. I will ask him on Monday where he grabbed the wheels when determining the amount of play. 9 and 3 or 12 and 6.

Thanks again for the help.

 

sounds more like those bushings then.

what happens is that when you apply the brakes, the car wants to keep going,
but the tires want to stop. that separates the rear subframe from the car at the
bushings. then once the car has stopped, the separation closes and you get the
second thud/clunk/bang.

 

I spoke to mechanic he said the issue is stub axle bearings in the diff output.
What is a reasonable time to figure for labor. Is $350.00 per side reasonable with parts?
I am guessing this is above my grade as a diy project.
I have not confirmed this diagnosis with another shop.
As I mentioned this mechanic drives an xJ6 and specializes in Jag's and other imports.
Any input is appreciated.

 

Hi Joedudejag,

See the links in my post #10 for photos showing how these bearings are replaced. Removing the output shafts from the differential is just a matter of disconnecting the halfshafts from the diff drive flanges, then removing about 5 screws that hold the output shaft mounting flanges to the side of the diff. Then the shafts just pull out. 30 minutes tops per side.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you DonB for the info. I am replacing the differential output bearings on my car this weekend. Symptoms for mine were what I call loping at very low speed (idle) and a steady vibration at any speed greater than 25 MPH. I checked the float per the JTIS and had about .010" on each side.

 

Hi IH60,

Your end float is definitely in excess of spec (0.001-0.006 in.).

I haven't personally associated the diff output shaft bearings with loping at idle, so if replacing your bearings cures that, it will be a good addition to our collective knowledge.

Is the vibration you sense above 25mph associated with any audible noise?

Cheers,

Don

 

I finally got the bearings replaced. I do not think that the bearings cured the loping I was feeling at low speed. I indicated the rear wheels and found each had an out of round spot about 3 inches long along the circumference. Interestingly they were both in the same spot. I marked the high spot on each wheel then rotated the driver side high spot to the 12 o'clock position. Went around to check the passenger side and that was also at the 12 o'clock position. Not sure what may have caused this. In any case I have new bearings on the output shafts.

 

Quick question about my 97 XK8 convertable. The output shaft seals are leaking on both sides. I need to check the differential fluid and top up every oil change so I'd like to get them fixed. My Jag dealer says that I need JLM 20337 kit to fix the seals (bearings)since the new seal is part of the bearing. My parts blow up shows the jlm20326 as a separate seal. Do I have to replace the bearing to get a new seal? The dealer wants 3400 to replace all three seals.(the pinion is leaking too). I can do the pinion myself but am at a loss as to how to cure the output shaft leaks. Any comment?

 

This is the forum for '95 to '97 sedans. Try posting on the X100 forum.