Hi all! This is my first post. I have owned my 1997 XJ6 L for nearly a year now. A few months ago I had a rear wheel bearing that needed to be replaced, so I took it in to a shop. A month later my Jag was returned with a new hub, but it also came with a few new dash lights. The ABS light, and traction control lights were now on, and my speedometer was no longer working. The new hub has two holes drilled for a sensor. On either side of the hole for the sensor. The old hub had just one hole drilled and it was in the middle "above" the hold for the sensor. The other day I had to replace the other rear hub and bearing. I could only find a 97 xk8 hub, it fit but I noticed the holes drilled for the sensor were the same as the other hub replaced a few months ago. I guess my question is, does the orientation of the sensors matter? Or is there something wrong with one or more of my sensors. And what should I do to remedy either one?

 

The original X300 hub has one tapped hole for the sensor ear mounting bolt

There is a change in X300 sensor parts #s by VIN # as a group and all positions are different # s in that group

Genuine Anti Lock Braking System For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

May have broke one coming out and replaced with wrong #

The X308 sensor ear mount bolt hole on the hub is 180 degrees out ( clock ) from my understanding

The left and right sensors will only work in the correct side and installation " clock "

if the original good sensor is spun 180 degrees ( if you swap the left and right car sides ) it will not work

This is equivalent to having the sensor in the air and waving your hand as the spinning target in one direction and works vs. waving from the other direction

To test the sensor by spinning the tire in car fwd motion you will see about 1 volt AC on the wire pairs at the ABS module

You will see them as the 4 color groups

The speedometer comes out of the rear left sensor , the ABS and traction control from all

 

So if I were to have holes tapped in the original position they *should* work again, and if not I should test the sensors?

 

If the sensors were not mixed around or purchased a wrong part for one that may have broke ( they do break easily on removal as old stuck part so word of caution to not try too hard to remove )

Spin test to confirm each 4 sensors are good and which bad , then crude duck tape the sensor in place 180 degrees out from the current mount ear hole for a position you found bad in your 4 sensor group check

Color chart for wheel position........................

VIN # ?

Green ............Right Rear

Orange .................Left Rear


Red ...............Right Front

Blue ...................Left Front

 

There is the possibility that if they did replace a sensor that instead of removing the rear seat pan to disconnect the sensor pigtail they cut it off

If you don't splice the wires to the correct one of the 2 pair you will end up with a wheel position that does not work

Check for an external from the car shell near the sensor splice , no need to remove seat pan , but I do remember someone had a connector loose under the seat pan somehow , if you do remove the seat pan the connector position is visually obvious and easy to identify . Tighten a certain under a black triangle cover battery cable terminal nut that gets loose while under seat pan




Caution on dragging seat pan out the door to not rub lower door opening felt trim.................ask me how I know