Hello everyone, so i recently cured my cold start problem and rought idle by changing injectors.

car is a Jaguar x300 lwb 3.2 manual gearbox from 1996

now this saturday went with wife and kid for a 250km ride and everything was great! We stopped a few times and ride was just excelent!

after parking home in the garage i tried to lock the car but nothing, no central lock, no interior dome lights, no lights beside the parking lights and worst of all no crank! Radio, AC, etc all works ok

- all dash lights come up but after some seconds only stays on the battery light an the fail bulb light. The check engine light goes away

- a red light stays on in the central locking button on central console even without key in ignition.


i thought bpm and tried another one with same P/N but feom 1995 (mine is a 96) from a friend but just when i plugged his it smelled burned (mine doesnt).

i opened both bpm’s and there is burned/fried mark in D13 in both of them.

can anyone help me pointing in the right direction?

thanks in advance

 

Well went to search for more and found this loose plug in the trunk, near the slcm, and it has duct tape around and seems to have a wire

Edir: well after some more hours reading seems to be the inclination sensor multiplug, where is the sensor? Have no clue

 

Also search for continuity in the bpm plugs and found continuity in the black plug fc2 pin 20 which states that it is for the parking switch

but i have a manual?

 

well put the car in the best eletrician that i was recommendes but he is also having a bad time with this.

So he removed the diode the was always burning and made a direct connection on it, now the car has all the functionalities working (wipers, lights, etc) but no crank and no central locking.

So here is some questions for those who can give me a hand on this:

- This is an european LHD car, has anyone ever suceeded in bypassing the immobilization system?

- Does anyone has a BPM diagram (of the internals, so we can understand where does a permanent positive comes from?)

- Do you know any common faults on the wiring of this car that usually can break and give problems like this?

thanks a lot

 

Well after much looking and testing and swapping modules still no luck.

car is in a eletrician who is know to be good but he cant find the fault.

but he told something weird, someone bumped by accident into the front bumper of the car and it started beeping and he could turn on the car for three times, then returned to immobilized state.

???

 

Here are two documents that might help to give you some more ideas about things to check. I think Brendan (b1mcp) is the author of the BPM document.

I don't know of any published schematics for the internal operation of the BPM.

USA cars don't have key transponders, immobilization, auto alarm set, motion sensors or inclination sensors. Which means I have no experience with those functions, other than what I have read on the forums. But all relate to the BPM and SLCM. Have you tried another SLCM yet?

 

hello!! Yes i have tried another slcm but all the same, cant really figure out what is going on there

i already have those docs thanks a lot, thing is i have no idea what is burning that diode since i dont have a scheme for the bpm only for the pins

 

Good night! I am coming from Spain, with a x300 4.0 sovereign. I bought the car with the same problem that Paulo has. After a long time stopped, it never started. One day it started and ran fine for a few days, then it stopped starting again.
Symptoms: Lock does not work (neither with remote control nor key), parking light goes off, windshield wipers do not work, or interior lights... Apparently the entire installation is OK. New battery. I have tried a BPM and a SLCM without success.

Can someone help me?

Thank you!

 

Most likely you have chip in key immobilization

The chip decoder / transponder is located by the key barrel , but the power comes from a trunk fuse X

This power wire comes back fwd to the dash by way of the large 48 pin connector ( BT - 4 ) above the fuel tank , have to remove fwd trunk liner

Do not remove the connector as can be a real pain to get back on fully without breaking external lock pins ( 2 ) ( purple arrow )

Ensure the connector lock over bar is secured with a tie wrap to hold connector closed

 

To get the starter to rotate the starter solenoid relay must click closed , this splits the starter system in half

If it does click closed you have made all your starting " agreements / enables "

The BPM ( as it brings all agreements together ) provides a command / control ground at the starter relay socket Y ( Y is socket # 1 )


You can swap this 6707 relay with the same used on headlights , fog , A/ C clutch

If you have this BPM provided ground at socket Y you have a bad or compromised relay or the starter solenoid is bad

Good battery voltage ? and what does the voltage " sag " to on full key rotation

Hint : if you have a sag , the starter solenoid by way of the relay socket Y getting a ground is moving to make battery cable connection for missing starter rotation

The instrument voltage gauge is very accurate

Do not overtighten the battery positive post bolt , splits nut underneath

Do not reinstall battery in backwards

If you get a decent wiggle on the instrument volt gauge your agreements are good and the solenoid itself is mechanically moving to make muscle power battery cable connection

To provide the " control " power ( fuse # 12 which should be not blown in your history ) to the relay to close the relay on socket # 2 , the right engine bay fuse box relay must click closed , this right relay can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box ( this left only runs the car horn )

This right engine bay fuse box relay is provided a control / closing ground path through the ignition switch to pin 5 of the ignition switch connector to car frame ground , this pin 5 to car frame ground can go bad , corrosion on pin 5 ( fluids / coffee spill ) or the car frame ground stud can get disturbed from work behind dash

The pin 1 to pin 5 at the ignition switch connector for a starter agreement is not a solid contact but momentary so not the most confidence building with a wavering meter

In summation the right engine bay fuse box relay must click closed first then the large starter solenoid relay must click closed

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This is an I added into / combined pic of the V - 12 which is very close to your 3.2 / and the not common transmission ZF4HP 22 configuration

Note the Orange box and they did not include chip in key decoder module wiring as in other prints in the wiring guide security section ( section 18 ? )

If you double click the pic , it is cleaner and can magnify

 

Good morning Parker, thanks for the reply, I will carry out these checks this afternoon. But I think there may be another problem, because the car does not work at all in relation to the SLCM, neither the windscreen wipers, nor the interior lights, nor the exterior lights. The alarm does not work either, nor the indicators, except for the one with the warning button... Everything else works OK, climate control, instrument panel...
In the afternoon I will carry out the checks you indicate and I will inform you.

Thank you!

 

Another approach is a whole car power distribution test as the ignition switch is the center of attention

Have the key in the run position but engine not running

Remove each of the king relays in the corners of the 4 fuse boxes with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box ( horn )

The relay should click in your fingers back to open