Hello Everyone,

Can someone help me out with a power door lock problem I'm having on my '95 XJ6 (LHD US Model)? If I lock the driver's side door from the outside with the key the alarm will arm itself but I get no lock response from the other 4 doors.

If I sit in the car and use the console lock button to try to lock the car I hear a very faint "click" (for lack of a better word) starting from the area of the left front door to the right front door and then moving toward the back but none of the locks actually lock.

If I use the remote door lock it will arm the alarm system and can be used to unlock the trunk but again none of the door locks lock.

Can someone tell me where on the car are the various modules and relays that I can get to to see where the problem might be? And, what do they look like? Also, is there anything under the "ski slope" that might have anything to do with the problem? I really don't want to get into the doors. I'm hoping that not all four of the actuators are bad.

Thanks everybody,

Carl

 

I have the identical problem on my 97 xj6, have changed the module in the trunk by the filler pipe...just get the clicking sound starting under driver side dash the pass side then to the pass side kick boot under back seat....HELP

 

I suspect it is a sticking microswitch in the drivers door lock actuator. If you lock the car with the key does the car lock and unlock itself in rapid succession? If the ECU doesn't see the door as locked it won't actuate the others. Replacement seems to be the only fix, and that's in the drivers door.

 

1996 xj6: None of the doors locks will move by its actuator, Driver's door can be unlocked using the key, but not by use of transmitter fob. Pushing down or raising button on all of the doors make no noise. The dashboard locking button makes no noise. The valet switch makes no sound when pushed. The dashboard trunk switch makes no noise and does not work; however it can be opened using the key, but not the transmitter fob.

Everything worked until last week. I have tested all of the car's fuses and they are ok. I tested the two blue relays beside the gear selector "J" gate with a multi-tester while under power and both work. Have NOT tested the relays behind the left-hand side heelboard yet.

I have been unable to locate the Security ECM, which is said to be on the left-hand side upper wheel arch in luggage compartment.

Question: (a) Are all of the actuators for all doors dependent on the Driver's door actuator working properly?
(b) Would my problem be caused by the Security ECM?

Can you recommend any suggestion to solve my problem?

 

SLCM should be mounted to the left rear wheel arch, behind the left luggage compartment trim panel and just below the fuel tank filler neck.

 

And good luch with the slcm. I sold mine quickly from my 96 vdp im parting out. Its common and used ones go for good money. Need any other parts?

 

Is your car starting?

 

I have a 96 XJS and I want to tell you that the power locks are the first indicator of a battery that is beginning to bite the dust. The power locks on my car begin to act strange. Most times they work, other times they don't.

Testing the battery at an Advance Auto netted me no useful result. They deemed the battery good for another two years. I ended up replacing the battery after a few months later when I had dead battery issues. Usually I associated it with something I left plugged into the OBD2 port, but it was really just an early indicator of a dying battery.

It was an Interstate battery purchased in 2014. RIP.

 

Success! However, I don't know what worked. I had given up and was closing up my Jag for the final time. I walked around to the passenger door where I had left the window down so I could lock and unlock that door using the push knob and pushed it down, and BEHOLD, the actuator functioned for all of the doors, but they went down, up, down, and back up,staying up. I went back to the driver's door which I had left open with the key in the ignition, go in closed the door and locked it with the dashboard switch. I unlocked the truck with the dash switch. Got out and locked everything with the key, with the normal alarm beeps.

Before today, nothing related to the door locks worked except I could use the key to lock and unlock the driver's door and pushing down and up on the individual door locks did not cause action by the actuators, nor did the dashboard locking switch do anything.

The things I did today was to disconnect the battery on both poles and left them off for about an hour. Before reconnecting them I touched the two together as I read in another forum track. Yesterday I had removed all security related relays and bench tested them with a 12 volt battery and found them all to be functioning. This morning I found another relay for the trunk lid in the trunk and bench tested it and found it ok. I also dismantled my only key fob and ended up destroying it. I noted it had a stuck button for the locking mechanism so that the little red light was staying on. Maybe this might have had something to do with my problem. At any rate my destroying it may have been solved my problem, or it may have been something else. Who knows, but thankfully it now works.

Thanks for any input everyone gave me.

I had given up and decided to admit failure and quit.

 

This morning, after posting that I had achieved "Success", the damn door locking system again would not work. I can only lock and unlock the driver's door with the key and the actuators on all doors did not work. Back to zero.

 

How old is your battery?

 

No, it would not start. My battery was brand new. Now I have replaced the Body Processing Module with a used one, and behold it will start and run. However, the doors will not lock or unlock from the central switch on the dash, nor will the trunk unlock. The doors will lock/unlock by pushing/pulling the individual door knobs, but will not operate from the actuator nor from the key or remote.

Also earlier in this endless problem my horn stopped working after mysteriously going off while being parked in front of my home after a rainstorm. It finally died out by itself which was then followed by the failure of my being able to start the car, as identified above. I found the fuses for the two horns had both blown and replacements now blow when renewed.

Now the air conditioning will not cool, even though the compressor activates and I have evacuated and replaced the freon. I don't know if this is related.

At least the car now runs, but with no horn, locks or air conditioning.

HELP!