A little history, I've replaced nearly every accessible seal that I can on my XJR. It has 112k miles on it and it's still leaking. This time is leaking quite badly from the axillary shaft housing where it mates to the power steering pump.

Initially I found a crack in the shaft support housing and it came off in two pieces. That was replaced with a new unit, and the oil seal was replaced as well.

The seal was fitted using the factory toll and is seated correctly but oil is passing by it regardless. This gets slung onto the block and drips all over the cross member leaving about 15 drips on the ground each time I park.

So here is what I believe the remedy to be and maybe someone can correct me.

1. pull front timing cover
2. remove auxiliary shaft chain
3. remove auxiliary shaft via the front access (this looks straught forward, couple of 4mm pins holding the sprockets in alignment.)
4. Replace rear housing (again)
5. Replace auxiliary shaft into carrier housing
6. replace rear oil seal ... again
7. re-install timing chain
8. do all new ramps and blades as long as I'm in there
9. Reseal front cover with hysol and cross my fingers.

Any thoughts?

 

I had a leak from the same point.

It turned to be where cover meets the bottom of the head.

Worked some RTV into the joint with my finger and it has now stopped

 

Which cover?

 

Mike's and mine are twins, Bugga.

Using a mirror on a stick, look up above the timing chain tensioner, at the lower edge of the cylinder head, there is a seam that is theoretically sealed with the overhang of the head gasket. This primarily becomes an issue if the timing cover has been removed with the head in-situ, as that portion will certainly be damaged, either in the removal process, or the refitting.

Now this is the "wet side" of the chain, and is liberally saturated in oil on the inside, and it gets out.

Also, the timing chain tensioner hanging out of the cylinder head has a gasket AND an o/ring seal, and sees about 80psi oil pressure at ALL times. It is fed from the front exhaust cam bearing and being "dead ended" that pressure is real, tested mine many times in disbelief.

That aux shaft and its bits is virtually unheard of as an issue area, but I suppose there has to be a first time.

 

The area around the tensioner and the above it is dry, thankfully. I replaced the tensioner and gasket and used a skim coat of anaerobic sealer on it just to be safe.



This is the area below the drive dog coupler. Oil runs out of the weep hole.

 

Bugga.

Since you have done the seal, it only leaves item #4, which is the gasket.

Still a bugga of a job to do that from what I can decifer from the parts drawing I have attached.

 

Sadly that's already been replaced as well when I discovered the the housing was split and JB welded together. There is a lot of scoring on the auxiliary shaft and I believe it's out of spec if there exists a spec for it.

 

Oh.

If that shaft is scored it would cause damage to the seal, so I would hunt down a replacement shaft. It is the same as the XJ40 3.6/3.2/4.0 AJ6 engines, so I reckon plenty in the wreckers, even up there.

 

Yup, the plan is a three day weekend to replace it all. Going to go ahead and do all the chain blades and bits as well while I'm in there. I figure it's a good solid 12 hours labor to get in and out of the timing compartment and to replace the rear flange.. again.

I ordered everything from the same source, some new and some used of course on the shaft. I'm also going to replace the aft exhaust manifold at the same time since it's cracked and the air line is cross threaded.

The gorilla that worked on this before should have been a lot more careful wrenching on these Jag's.

 

The exhaust manifold crack is a known issue.

The only way to stop it is get a custom made one.

Plenty of threads on here about it.

 

I'm just getting a used good one for now, it's easy enough to change on this car that I'm not worried about going in again when it cracks.