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Bought thus car that had not been moved since 2015. Started up after replacing battery. Key fobs do not work. Is the issue the fobs or the security unit on the car? Car sat with a dead battery for quite a while. Does the unit in the car have to be reprogrammed? Turning key in door does not unlock or lock all doors at once. ???? I have replaced batteries int he fobs and all light up when buttons are pressed.
Here is the FOB re-programming routine if you need it
Cheers
11.6 - Remote Key Fob Programming
Open the boot lid and drivers door, and switch on the ignition. Rock the valet switch, in the centre console, 5 times. The system will chirp to indicate it has entered learning mode.
On models with seat/mirror/steering wheel memory functions, the first remote will be linked to memory 1, second to memory 2 etc.
Press the larger, lock, button of the remote. The system will chirp to confirm it has got the signal. If it doesn't receive any signals for 15 seconds, it will chirp twice and exit learn mode.
To programme further remotes, rock the valet switch once. The system will chirp twice for remote number two, three times for number three etc, then press the lock button of the remote as above.
When finished, wait 15 seconds for the system to time out and chirp twice, turn off the ignition, close the doors and boot lid and the job is done!
Checked #4 fuse in trunk and it had not been removed. I removed cables from the battery and have touched the battery cables to each other for 5 minutes to no avail. The door locks cycled 3 times, same thing happens if I remove the #4 fuse in the trunk. No chirping of the alarm and no flashing of lights. I even tried squinting one eye and bowing to the east..
I will remove battery cables and ground out for the night. Have put ignition in on position and rocked vallet switch, no chirping. Will try tomorrow after overnight grounding. Realize I could have a bad vallet switch and also a bad recharge alarm unit. Would the passive rechargeable alarm unit cause no chirping to tell me the fobs are ready to program? Believe the passive alarm unit is a set of rechargeable aa batteries that bypass someone trying to disconnect the battery for theft. Does the alarm chirp rely on those long dead rechargeable batteries? When the locks go through their 3 cycle lock/unlock, i get no chirping. Will see what happens tomorrow after the overnight grounding of the battery cables. I also have a 1994 xjs convertible with its own set of voltage gremlins that need chasing. Thanks for all your help to a novice.
You should have NAS - North American Specification
There are 2 basic versions of the SLCM . 315 hz which should be yours and a later 433 that does not have a lot of the relays eternal to the SLCM
This is evident on page 159 with a relay map on page 26 for the left heelboard fuse box area fwd of the left rear seat ankle area
Some but not all SLCM wiring passes through the BT4 / 48 pin connector above the fuel tank that may have a tie wrap on the lock over bar to keep it connected
If removed be careful to not break the lock pins
There is a sheet metal cutout reducing the layers to close the connector but don;t quite fit the cutouts
Pic coming
Last edited by Parker 7; May 18, 2023 at 12:20 AM.
Door locks will cycle unlock/lock about 3 times when I remove the fuse and also when I reconnect the battery so I don't think the lock mechanisms are at fault. Not getting a chirp for lock, unlock, or ready for programing mode. There is a part that I have read about on the forums that keeps the alarm in alarm mode if the battery is removed. It is supposed to be rechargeable AA batteries that are soldered together. What is the part called? and exactly where is it located. Does the part control the chirp also?
It is true that the car will stay in Alarm State when the battery is removed and then reconnected. BUT I have no knowledge of any rechargeable battery system that is responsible for this.
The Security Locking Control Module is responsible for all functions of the locking and alarming systems, subject to inputs from the doors and the Body Processor Module, etc. The SLCM is tucked in behind the fuel filler neck, accessed from the trunk.
The door locks cycling multiple times indicates that one or more of the door latch arms is stuck. The actuator can't push the mechanism to the opposite position because of friction in the pivot points (due to dirt and lack of lube). A "springy" door lock peg indicates this condition. Or the actuator might be broken. The system attempts several times and then gives up. A similar effect is seen if one or more of the door latch SWITCHES is faulty, as Parker pointed out. This usually means the door latch must be taken out, lubed up, switch replaced and actuator replaced if necessary.
The chirp in general will only happen with Arm and Disarm. The locks problem must be addressed first, and might just correct the alarm function too. The SLCM must sense that all doors are locked in order to engage the alarm system.
on a similar note.
does the alarm only activate via the fob?
i do not have a working fob so can only lock with the key.
(or the aftermarket system i have wired to simulate turning the key)
normally i deadlock the car, turn to unlock and then turn to lock,
and the car beeps at me to indicate it is dead locked, however i do not get the flashing LED on the dash.
wondering if this is just simply the alarm not activating due to not having a fob or the alarm is not activating due to another reason.
The only thing I get when connecting the battery or reconnecting the #4 fuse in the trunk is the door locks will lock and unlock 3 times. I do not get any chirp or beeps from the car. I have tried to go into program mode with the fob and do not get any indication that the car is ready to program. (again- no chirps or beeps). I plan to watch each lock when it goes into the lock unlock cycle to see if one is not doing anything. That will tell me if I have a sticky lock as someone had mentioned.