Just to add my two cents on the module repair: Several members have reported continued problems with their ABS systems after performing the repair by using a hole saw and reflowing the solder only on the two large pins for the pump connector.

I have repaired several modules that had cold, cracked or starved solder on several other joints in addition to the pump pins, including the small pins for the main connector through which all the wheel speed sensor signals pass. For these reasons, I personally recommend sawing off the entire back cover of the module so you can reflow/supplement all the solder joints that look the least bit suspicious. It only takes a few minutes to carefully saw the cover off, and it's a simple matter to reattach it with RTV silicone sealant.

Somewhere I have photos of one or two module circuit boards showing how many of the solder joints had issues. I'll try to post them one of these days.

Cheers,

Don

 

My mechanic replaced the faulty Traction Control Motor with a good used one I purchased from eBay.


and the Traction Control and ABS Lights went away! This leaves the Airbag Light to be dealt with next.

 

Update: Got a set of good used Airbag Impact Sensors and Airbag ECU from a breaker in the UK. Replacing the Left impact sensor managed to switch off the Airbag Dash Light for a few minutes; ditto when replacing the Right impact sensor. Tired of guess work but what possible culprits are just the Driver's Side Impact Sensor or the Airbag ECU. Picked the latter for the next change and Bingo! The dash warning light is gone and the annoying beeping sounds no longer return.

While removing the Airbag Control Module (it was a pig to remove due to tight space and rusted screws), the mechanic noticed that there is surface rust all over the metal racks under the glove box compartment where various modules (Body Processing Module, Transmission Module, Airbag Control Module....) around there. Moisture, heat, and rain in the last few years when Rose was parked outdoor might have killed the Airbag Control Module. He sprayed some rust repellent there before re-assembling the glove box compartment. Also, as a safety precaution, we disconnected the car battery before attempting to remove the Airbag Control Module. The temporary disconnection also helped remove the DTC memory.

It has been a great relief that there is no more dash warning light! The good used Traction Control Motor was only GBP 9; and the airbag impact sensor set plus the Airbag ECU cost GBP110.

 

Mine has a gap in the A/C center plenum lower edge front side that I assume is causing the same thing . Can use a wire wrap around the top to bottem and as you twist the wire it will pull the gap together and hopefully clip together . I have not done that yet . Did I mention Duck Tape . Spray all the connectors you can see to prevent problems in service . The side ducting pipes have foam seals that can be cut from some house window seal material from the hardware store . Did I mention Duck Tape . Quack , Quack

 

Another reason for water on the electronics behind the dash is that the climate control unit (CCU or A/CU) drain hose(s) become clogged, often with crumbs of the foam seals and insulation that Lady Penelope mentioned, which deteriorate over time. With the drains plugged, condensation collects under the evaporator and sloshes out onto nearby electronics, particularly while cornering.

It may be possible to improve drainage by running a length of weed eater/string trimmer line up the drain hose from where it exits under the car. Using compressed air will typically blow the drain hose off its fittings. A better approach is to clean the drain holes at the sides of the CCU, which requires removing the knee bolsters, but the best results come from removing the dash so you can access the area inside the CCU below the evaporator and heater matrix.

Cheers,

Don

 

Sorry to comment on an old thread but I guess I am not convinced that the insulation missing from the wires to the traction actuator motor concern makes sense. I think that we may be looking at metal shielding on the wires not actual loss of insulation. On the 2 motors I have there is no evidence of an outer insulation layer beyond the shielding and it does not look like it ever had it. Needless to say I have a persistent actuator motor code so perhaps both are bad.

EDIT... Strike all that.. On closer inspection both motors have insulation missing and are probably shorting can see where the insulation was Guess that is my issue.