I have a 1997 XJ6 and I have a lock problem that I haven't been able to find a solution for on Youtube, or anywhere else, and I haven't seen anybody else having this exact same problem. I can lock the doors only with the key, and unlock them only with the fob. It's been working like that for a couple of years but I would very much prefer to fix it before one or the other stops working. Any suggestions on what might be causing this?

 

What does it do when you try to unlock them with the key? Does it manage to turn all the way as expected?
Does it still popup and unlock all doors from the inside driver seat just pulling on the door handle?

My actuator in the driver's door just started having problems too, but to be expected as a daily driver with 270,000 miles on it. It works lock/unlock with key, but is no longer unlocking (or now locking) from the fob or passenger door opening. I am sure I need to replace mine.

 

ANY TIBBE key will lock ANY TIBBE door lock.
The correct key is needed to UNLOCK a TIBBE key door lock.

Perhaps someone replaced the door handle and used the wrong lock barrel for your car?(from another car?)

The keyfob transmitter LOCK button might be faulty?

RF signal testers can determine if the LOCK button is transmitting.
Auto parts stores in the U.S. have keyfob transmitter testers to check.

 

When I try to unlock with the key, I can't turn the key.
All the doors unlock when I pull the door handle from inside.

I just went outside and tried the fob again, and to my surprise, now it works again... After not working for years. Today I could both lock and unlock the doors with it. But I still can't unlock with the key.

 

When I bought the car everything worked fine for years, until it suddenly didn't anymore. I had the battery changed in the fob but that didn't fix the problem.
But today, when I decided to try it again before posting here, it suddenly worked again. First time in three years, or more.

 

Awesome!

I often find my Jag fixing itself too. I have a steering rack leak, but it comes and goes. Was worse a few years ago (actually dripped on ground), now it isn't enough to even bother checking the fluid more than once week or so (no drips). I don't think the latch actuator is going to fix itself this time :-P

 

It probably was either a weak battery for the power locks or the more likely, it was dirty and rusted in there. WD-40 inside the keylocks multiple times and lots of dirt and rust will come out, put the key in multiple times and turn it both ways multiple times. Should fix both, mine were completely stuck.

 

Have tried that now but unfortunately it didn't make any difference.

 

i did not have this issue with the door lock but had it with the boot lock.
i found i needed to remove the lock assembly from the boot and clean it all ap and free it up.
the barrel was jamming up and the mechanism behind the lock was also sticking.
took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together with white lithium grease on the moving parts and good to go.
this happens when the key barrels are not used the begin to lock up.
have just noticed this now that my drivers door has begun to stick up.
but after using it a few times it frees up.
graphite powder in the lock on occasion is good to help keep things lubricated.

 

Sorry for a late reply, but thanks for the tip!
I was trying to find how to videos but couldn't find anything that seemed right. Lots of videos about how to change the actuators. I guess I'll just take the door panel off and see how it looks like. Judging from your post it didn't sound like something extremely difficult.

 

It's a complete Rube Goldberg assembly with metal rods and plastic links...until you get to the door latch. There is a mechanism that uses some kind of electrical motor. Consider that the black box. Everything else should move with an obvious intent.