Today I did the vacuum trick to see if I had a leak and yep I do. It is not a crack, thank God, but seems to be a gasket. It feels as if the leak is coming around two of the bolts. So I went to my parts jag to practice taking off the manifold and of course I can't get two the bolts holding the manifold to the exhaust pipe. SO I figure instead of going the the knuckle busting of taking them off, and making sure I would get it done right I figured I would get a professional to do so. Other than those bolts it seemed to be maybe a 1-2 hours job. Anyone every done this and have an idea of what it would cost?

 

On the aft inboard nut it's about 15 degrees off so if you just place the socket in the extension without engaging the retaining pall you can get your 15 degrees . Under the car is alot easier . Careful to not deform the downpipe donut gasket seat and I cut the web between the fwd and aft bank for more flexibility . Goatrope and a lever is your friend on assembly . The downpipe to midpipe joint will probably be frozen stuck so save the trouble and just cut off with a cutoff wheel right about the transmission crossmember . The pipe at that point is 60 mm OD . I had to remove the downpipe for welding repairs .

 

Yea .....no. Although I would like to do it it sounds like you have a little ....a Lot more experience than I do. Too many things that could go wrong. While I am at it can yo tell me what the picture is ....maybe a part number and how difficult to change. Not sure why anyone would put a piece of plastic right there.

 

You know , those bone headed engineers .

This is my first Jaguar so I'm an expert in the field . At least that's what I tell the womenz .



The white plastic is the traction control retract actuator cable . Remove the whole actuator off to the side before tinkering with the cable ends under the plastic covered bellcrank . Note the condition of the 2 wire coming out of the bottom of the cylinder for insulation deterioration

 

You don't need to take the whole manifold off if you want to change/inspect the exhaust gasket. You can pull the manifold away from the engine enough to change/inspect it with the downpipes still attached. To undo two nuts holding each manifold to the downpipe its best to do it from underneath the car with couple of extension, access from underneath is much better. Mind you its quite likely that these studs will snap and will need to be drilled out and tapped. Not a difficult job, you just need to be prepared.
Gasket is metal and I dont think I ever heard of it failing, plenty of broken studs stories though and of course cracked manifolds.

 

Well in that case I better be prepared to have another set so I should go ahead and pull them off my spare car and have them ready to replace on my car. I took a mirror to check the underside and did not see a crack. However when I hooked up the vacuum and used a lighter I could not keep it lit near one of the bolts so maybe I do have a crack and just could not see it? SO if they do break and you you must tap can you also tap from underside?

 

Yea I am looking for the plastic piece. Is that part of the cable or the actuator I looked and found the actuator but could not find that part. My parts car has it broken.

 

OK going to give it a shot. Anyone have the torque specs, or point me in the direction, for the heat shield and the manifold bolts

 

I’ve done this job. I have a post about my experience on the XJS site.


Theres a slew of small parts you’re gonna need. I don’t think I was able to pull the manifold off far enough to replace that gasket without disconnecting the exhaust headed from the cat. you’ll need to order some one-time-use nuts to complete that job.


Do you have an EGR? You’ll need a gasket, I believe. I also trashed some studs because they rusted in the exhaust manifold and I couldn’t get them out.


It's a weekend job and you’ll need to be comfortable working in the blind with some wobble extensions to undo/reinstall those nuts connecting the header to the cat. Of course you’ll need some crush washers for that too.


It's very straightforward. I think my post mentioned the important torque values, if not, I can get that later tonight for you.</div>

 

The torque spec Doc. in in your private mail

 

Thanks if you can help we out on part number for the nuts that would be great. .I have already ordered the gasket

 

I missed that part , crush washers under the downpipe studs ?

 

This is what you'll need:

EBC11330 - Gasket Manifold
EBC2909AA - Gasket Manifold
EAC9388 x2 - Donut Downpipe Gasket
FN110041J x14 - Manifold Locknuts
JZN100024 x4 - Downpipe Locknuts
EAC3823 x4 - Downpipe Studs
EBC10827 - EGR Pipe Gasket

Those manifold studs at the end of the list were impossible to remove, just have them on hand, you might not need them, but good luck finding a replacement if you need them.

I can't recall why I ordered the 14 Locknuts, they might be single use too? I know the 4 were.

I did not have any problems with the studs on the engine that the manifold bolts on to. (JZC100029 x14)

I also did not have any issues with the two studs at the EGR flange, however, I was lucky. I might recommend you get these. (TE108041J x2)

Make sure you have an assortment of wobble ratchet extenders. I needed all the ones I had to reach nuts and bolts from below the car.

By the way, I drive an XJS so please double check the parts on JDHT to make sure they work for you too! They should, but there might be some random change...

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

Well I was able to get the manifold off the parts car. Everything went well except that last back downpipe nut. So here is what was interesting. Someone must have had to do it before because they put back 9/16 nuts. Seemed to work ok without any issues. That was my practice now to move onto the real one. I pulled them off just in case I had a crack on mine.

Thanks for all the info and I ordered the gasket but not sure I need it because the ones I just pulled off were fine. The last nut took me about 2 hours to figure out how to get it off. No broken studs!

 

I strongly recommend you use the new gasket as the old ones do compress and deform over time and might not seal properly against a different manifold.

Cheers,

Don

 

Will be addressing this job on my 90 v12 shortly, at first glance, it looks like the rear drinkers side manifold cannot be removed without lifting or tilting the engine, any veterans want to confirm that?

 

Some one just did a manifold job on a 96 X300 V12 and I am pulling the information package together

The body of a 90 XJS and 96 X300 are different but similar and would have similar obstacles to over come like the same front end suspesion crossmember in the way

Notice your VIN # and the manifold gaskets are in the engine block area and not exhaust

https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...-sports-parts/

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Exhaust seal at manifold, down pipe fitting question - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum