I have fitted a new throttle body that has the two new sensors on it. I have connected all the cables and pipes just as they were before, now the engine will not turn over and the engine fault light comes on. Can you guide me please. Because of previous problems with either of the two sensors I thought that fitting the new throttle body that had both the sensors on it would be the answer.

 

Put your finger on the starter relay and see if it clicks and if not swap with the headlight relay . The relays can be hard to remove but some spray penetrate helps . There are some fuses

 

Thank you for that. The relays seem to be ok. The engine turned over this morning and the car stared straight away so I thought it had put itself right. Drove the car up the road a bit and managed to stall it, so thought I would just turn the key again and restart it, but nothing doing. All lights coming on with ignition, but turn the key to start and nothing happens, no click either. Just wondering could the starter motor be playing up, or could it be the immobilizer. Any thoughts please. Robert.

 

The only sensors on that thing, that you could have disturbed are:
1. TPS - on the underside of the throttle body. Are you sure that you reinstalled it correctly? You could have installed this backwards? Could the TPS need to be reset because it is "out of bounds"? I would think this would throw a code.

2. IACV - I can't see how this would prevent the car from starting, but again, is it plausible? Can you hear the IACV operate at all when you power on the car, and then turn it off? Again, I would have suspected a code.

That's it. That's all I have for you. No other sensors are attached to that throttle body...

 

Make sure the 48 pin connector above the fuel tank is seated and lever locked . A tywrap keeps the bar over . Don't try to hard on the engagement lock pin as I have not been able to find the part number . They feel kinda funny as you engage the halves .

Go ahead and swap the relay anyway with one with the same part # like the A/C relay since you probable don't have the fog lights on the executive model

On the key switch as you remove the lower steering column cover verify the pin 5 has a good ground on the car side on the connector . The car side of the connector pops straight up from its mount for easier access . I found my pin 5 with some corrosion . The starter detente is pin 1 to 5 on the switch side of the connector .

Play with the shift lever to make the switch as the no rotation event is present .

 

G'day Ty,

The blue relay in the RHS fuse box should also click when the IGN is turned to ON. If it doesn’t click then nothing will happen. Swap it with the blue relay (horn relay) in the LHS fusebox and try it again.

Another thought, if when you turn the IGN to ON some of the lights on the instrument panel appear to be dead then you should check the relays in the heel board fuse boxes at the base of the rear seat.

There is an IGN relay in each fusebox which should click when the IGN is turned ON. I had both of these relays simultaneously fail while driving one day and the car just died. New relays fixed it.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

First check in a no crank scenario should be battery voltage.

 

Hi tycapel7,

Battery voltage is always worth checking when you have a starting problem, so ditto to Brendan's advice.

Since the onset of symptoms was so sudden and a new throttle body can't prevent the starter from cranking, I wonder if it is possible that you blew a fuse while you were changing throttle bodies? There are probably several possible suspects, but I would start with the two fuses that feed the ECM Controlled Relay, Fuses #6 (5A) & # 11 (20A) in the right hand engine bay fuse box.

Starter cranking is controlled by the Body Processor Module (BPM), so it would also be worth checking Fuse #5 (10A) in the trunk fuse box.

There are probably several other fuses that could cause a problem so it would be worth checking them just to rule them out.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don