Following my 'surprise' MOT pass on what I know to be less than perfect ball joints (well at least one anyway!), I think I'll just replace all four. I believe they're easy enough - i.e. nothing else needs removing to get to them, no spring compressor needed etc.? Just a case of the nuts and bolts for each joint, as well as a joint splitter and a suitable instrument of percussive maintenance?

While I'm at it, are there any other bits that are relatively easy to swap, as well as being likely to need doing? Bushes, ARB links? I've already done the TREs - they were properly ****ed!

Ta

 

Take the springs off, do all the bushes and give everything a fresh coat of paint.





Give me another week or so and I'll tell you what a difference it has made (and it bloody well better do after all that time and money!). Yes, drop links are on the list - they can wait though.

Edit: Here's a good diagram:
http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk...pper-and-lower

 

I've just done exactly this and it made one hell of a difference. I did the rear end and all 4 shocks too and its surprised me how well it handles for such a big car!

 

my Daimler 6 was due for this last week, but the mechanic could only get bushes for one side! Archibald & Shorter, the main Jag agents in Auckland, wanted NZD$100 per bush (!), so he is getting some from UK for about 30-40$$

So my car will get done next 2-3 weeks..

 

I'd like to be that thorough, but a) it's a daily driver so taking it off the road isn't really convenient at the moment, b) I don't have the necessary spring compressor, and c) I don't have the time!

I've already spent plenty of time under the car with the wire brush, kurust and underseal (I've had British cars before!) - I'm just after any 'easy fixes' that I can do at the same time as the balljoints... Rear shocks & bushes are all relatively new, thankfully

 

You can't change any wishbone bushes without removing the wishbones (and hence the springs). You can't change the subframe bushes without removing the subframe (at which point you might as well do the wishbones).

ARB bushes and drop-links can be done in-situ though. The shocks will come out with the spring in place and you can change the whole unit or just the top mounts. You might be able to get at the bottom shock bush too.

The spring compressor costs about £110 from SPL, or you can hire one for about £50 odd including shipping from the JEC. I noticed a significant ride height difference with new springs, so it's worth doing but it is going to take a few days (or, in my case, five months).

 

Thanks for that. I will do the rest of the front end at some point - probably when I've got my other car back on the road and I fancy using it for a bit! For now though, I'll just do all the balljoints and see what the ARB bits look like. Am I right in thinking that all of the balljoints can be done without anything else coming apart?

 

Maybe.

The spring is retained by the spring pan, which bolts to the bottom two wishbones with 6 one-time-use bolts (each side) that cost £4 each. Fortunately, the bottom ball joint goes up in to the vertical link, so it should just drop out.

The top ball joint is pinched by the top two wishbones but you should be able to withdraw the bolts and crack the top wishbones apart. There are a load of shims in there (hence it must be possible) so you may need wheel alignment afterwards.

Please let us know how you get on!

 

Ok, job done!

All 4 balljoints, and the upper wishbone bushes can be changed without removing the springs.

Should be simple enough, but I had the following issues:

1: Seized upper balljoint bolts (4x). None of them would come off without destroying the bolt heads. Once I'd taken an angle grinder to the heads (and slid the balljoint off), 3 of the bolts came out with the aid of some stilsons. One required some heat too.

2: Sheared lower balljoint bolts (2x). Massively annoying! Drilled out & ran a tap through. They're 5/16 x24, if anyone else needs to know.

3: Faulty new upper wishbone bushes (3x). Supplier replaced them (& not with more of the same!), but one was not amused after everything else had gone wrong!

I would recommend the following:
Have new balljoint bolts ready all round. Even if they do come out ok, you'll still want to use some that stand a chance of coming back out next time!

The nut on the lower balljoint is almost impossible to get at unless you've released the upper balljoint (or the wishbone fulcrum bolt) first. So put that one back on first when reassembling things!

Keep an eye on where the shims for the upper balljoints go. I'll get my alignment checked anyway, but I figure it stands more chance of being correct if it goes back the same as it was...

Finally, I've read about people suffering seized upper wishbone fulcrum bolts - I'd recommend checking them first; it could make you wish you'd not started...

If anyone needs any help on the process, just ask but it's pretty simple really. I'll upload some pics, but it's essentially: Remove upper balljoint bolts (if you can - doesn't need to be done now, but may be easier while it's held still!); Remove upper balljoint nut; release upper balljoint (you can turn the steering to get better access for your balljoint splitter); remove upper wishbone fulcrum bolt. You can then separate the halves of the upper wishbone (having fought with the upper balljoint bolts), and replace the bushes. Access to the lower balljoint is easy now - hope the 4x (1/2" head) bolts underneath don't shear off though, and don't let the hub/upright flop around and damage things.
Re-assembly is the reverse of removal...! Lower balljoint first, then the upper bits.