hello all, i have a 96 xj6 and was trying to change the brakes on the rear of the vehicle. first of all my wheels are stuck on the car and so, not knowing i loosened the middle nut( behind the center wheel cap) and the whole thing dropped down. i didnt lose any parts that were in the assembly and tried to put it back on. for some reason it wont go back flush and the wheel is on a slight angle and the tire has a lot of play back and forth and up and down even with everything tightened back up. i tried taking it off and putting back together pushing it and turning slightly to get it to seat straight but it still seats at an angle when its all assembled again. its also started to throw abs and traction control lights as well. how do i resolve this and is there a particular way to get the rear wheel off a 96 xj6? please help as this is my daily driver and i havent had any real problems out of this car as it has 123,000 miles on her and she still runs like a top!!, thanx so much guys.

 

Are you sur you got all the parts back in? There is a hemispherical "locking collar" as well as the nut. And fif you "jiggle " the hub onto the spline shaft completely.

Assuming tyou got the lug molts loose, loosesm them about 3 turns, then drive the car (SLOWLY!) whikle steering back anf forth- that will ususallu break the sheel loose. DO NOT DO THIS UNTIL YOUI HAVE FIGURED OUT WHATS WRONG WITH THE HUB MOUNT!!!!!

Or. use a bog rubber hammer or 4/4 on the edge of the tire.

 

have a look

 

That's all I can think of as well, FWIW. Everything would've stayed inside the hub, right?.

I'm trying to visualize if the bearing spacer and/or adjusting shim could've droppoed out of position....but perhaps haven't had enough coffee yet.

Geeez...I've replaced wheels bearings 2x. You'd think I could remember the lay of the land more clearly, eh? :-)


Cheers
DD

 

The alloy wheels have glued themselves to the steel hubs...corrosion between dissimilar metals. When you finally get everything sorted out clean the mating surfaces and smear them with a thin layer of wheel bearing grease or similar.

Cheers
DD

 

To remove heat the wheel then use a 2x6 piece of wood laying flat on the innerside of the wheel and hit the wood with a heavy dead blow hammer,rotate wheel while doing it.I find never sieze is better than grease when reassemling.

 

thanks for the quick reply guys!! all of the parts did stay on the hub, all i seen inside was a cog looking piece that went onto the spline. im thinking maybe when i put the wheel back on that its getting misplaced somehow or slipping out of position. it almost seems like its missing some sort of bearing but there isnt any and i know that nothing fell off because i didnt take it the whole way off. i did see the diagram also very helpful, the second one in particular, i didnt see the other 2 bearings, just the cog looking one. is it possible that the cog is getting misplace during reassembly? thanks again guys!!

 

The cog wheel is a press fit onto the hub but not overly tight and they CAN come loose....I've had it happen. This would explain the ABS light.

Cheers
DD

 

mmm, that sounds about right. would that also cause it to wobble like that also? the funny thing is that the car still drives smooth as silk, i had to drive it home like that for about 30-35 miles at 60 mph, nuts!! of course im not driving it now until i can sort this thing out. any idea how to seat that cog right so the wheel can go on flush again?

 

Hopefully the abs light isn't caused by the hub falling and stretching the abs cable. Also, unless you've tightened the hub nut to 230-250lbs/ft, surely you'll get some wobble? That said, I'm stumped why I can't get the play out of my rear hub after bearing change - and I used the same spacer.

 

IF the cog wheel came off the only way to reinstall it is to separate the hub from the axle, let the hub carrier assembly flop down, and tap the cog wheel back onto the shaft. You'll want to remove the speed sensor and parking brake cable first

Cheers
DD

 

My guess is that the new bearings are fractionally different in size ...and when tapped/pressed into place are not in *exactly* the same position as the old ones. You'll need to measure how much free play you have and install the correct adjusting shim to yield the required preload...which is about .002" as I recall

Cheers
DD

 

what exactly do the bearings look like and where can i get a replacement?

 

The bearings look like.....well, bearings! Typical tapered roller bearings. You can get them from any of the Jag specialists, many online vendors, probably even your neighborhood parts store. They're sometimes sold in a set: inner, outer, two seals, packet of grease. You'll also need a new axle nut.

Um.....don't take this wrong but, if you're planning on DIY bearing replacement, have you ever done this type of work before? If not you better get a manual....or have an experienced helper looking over your shoulder.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug. This is what I feared. Better do my homework and read up on this - I've never been able to understand it from the JTIS manual.