I observed a need for this procedure during a recent preventative maintenance action:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post2117308

Yes! I should've renewed the pinion seal while I was at it...but I needed a quick turn-around to make shop space for an incoming project. I topped up the diff with fluid and will save that task for a later date.

Fortunately, Motorcarman had replacement parts available, and was forthcoming with sage advice!!!
"Bob, I read an involved and confusing thread about propshaft alignment on the forum...do I need to be bothered about that?"
(puzzled look) "I don't see why...just mark the position of the center bearing support - well, you can see where the washers were - and put it back where it was, I've never had a problem."
"Anything else?"
"Remove the handbrake compensator first and get it out of the way. Then remove the bolts from the center bearing support. I always remove the jurid bolts from the differential flange first, then from the driveshaft. Stick a big pry-bar in there between the jurid and differential flange and pry it forward until you have space to get the jurid out."
So here you go:

1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, leaving gearbox in neutral and handbrake disengaged
2. Mark distance between handbrake compensator fixing nut and end of rod
3. Remove handbrake compensator (13 mm socket)
4. Mark the position of the center bearing support and its fixings
5. Remove 4 center bearing support fixings (10 mm socket and wobble-extension)
6. Remove 3 jurid-to-differential flange fixings (19 mm socket and 19mm back-up spanner)
7. Remove 3 jurid-to-propshaft flange fixings (19 mm socket and 19mm back-up spanner)
8. Insert pry-bar between jurid and differential flange and pry rear propshaft forward to disengage pilot from differential flange
9. Remove and renew jurid coupling (SGF 249937)
10. Put it all back by following steps in reverse order
11. Center bearing support fixings torque spec - 19-27 nm
12. Jurid-to-differential flange torque spec - 71-83 nm
13. Jurid-to-propshaft flange torque spec - none given; remember? Jaguar say, "DON'T DO IT!!!" but I extrapolated and used 71-83 nm

FWIW, The part-markings side of the jurid was installed to the propshaft on the one I removed. Therefore, I put the replacement back that way. I have no notion whether or not it matters.



There is no jurid renewal procedure. The closest I found was the differential pinion seal renewal. Jaguar say, "Don't you dare loosen that jurid from the propshaft flange!!!"

Not wanting to get bogged down with handbrake adjustments later, I started counting threads. However, I soon ran out of fingers and so grabbed a handfull of washers and a couple of M8 nuts to fix the distance I'd need to spin the handbrake compensator fixing nut back on upon re-assembly.

Handy way to remember how many washers I used. I inexplicably have a small box of M8 studs of the proper thread pitch.

I'm over-run with various-sized empty plastic edifices. I call them "suitable containers" and can generally find a size suitable to house my take-off parts. Keeps the shop-spiders and toads from scurrying off with the small bits

Although I initially "broke torque" on all fixings using hand-tools, prior to applying pneumatic assist, I had one center bearing fixing that only came out about 1/16" before the weld-nut or whatever back-up thread it screws into began spinning.

Fortunately, both fixings came out on the left side!

The pilot on the prop-shaft inserts into the differential flange. You need to pry it back (forward) far enough to disengage to free the jurid

It was well-knackered!!!