Any leads appreciated.

1996 VDP, Philly PA USA.

 

That engine ECM has the TSB R493 done

The ECM comes in specific country / regains

If yours is USA your in luck with the exception of California

Just saw one go to the crusher as the salvage yard had to send the donor car away in order to rotate his crop

 

05.1-26 amend4 (R493) (jagrepair.com)

 

Thank you again, Parker 7. My VDP has been out of commission while my mechanic has been working on a stalling issue that only occurs after driving for 30-60 minutes. I had used the car to commute 6 miles and never saw the problem until I went on said longer ride.
He seems to have narrowed it down to this ECM, but parts are becoming rare, and he got some duds that were no better than the pictured one. I realize I may have caused confusion by my poor writing skills. I meant I need to a acquire a replacement for the pictured ECM..
Thank you for the TB.
This is the picture of the ECM I ordered that hopefully is the correct one to replace. I don't understand on the change stickers, but if you could look and see if it is a match.

Thank you so much!
tom

This is the one I have purchased to replace the one originally pictured in this post.

 

The TSB explains the PROMs needed for each model.
Maybe you can transfer the correct PROMs from your ECM to the replacement IF they are functional and the problem is NOT with the PROMs?

Any ECM should work as long as the PROMs are correct.

 

Thank you motorcarman,
Good info for me. I will reread the TSB and see.

Best Regards,
tom

 

The TSB if completed on the rest of the engine should have a sticker in the engine bay somewhere as listed in the text

It involved a specific EGR valve # to be upgraded to

And a stronger throttle return spring

If not done in my opinion not a big deal and will review your history to look outside of you may not be % 100 percent compliant on the TSB

Try to retain your original ECM and the Proms have a number sticker on the2 large microchips that can be swapped out if needed

Do not place your fingers on the chip to socket contact fingers or legs

As Motorcarman ( Bob ) mentioned the hardware box is the same with the removable 2 chips have your specific " maps " in them for regional emissions performance

The ECM is basic plug and play with no programming

There is no flashing or rebooting that I am aware of

Vee had a Idle Air Control valve exersizing of the valve that was some form of a reset of the IAC valve

There is a fine detail on the throttle position sensor and best at this time to not remove aod adjust your throttle position sensor

 

Your ECM part # should be squirrelled away in this section

Search Genuine Engine Management Control Module Parts For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

4.0 liter / 4.0 liter California

Note the emission version A , B , C ...

 

See page X of this Doc as you have the AJ16 engine and not the earlier AJ6

You will see the CEL codes on page Y

801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)

And wiring guide and fuse / relay location docs coming

See page Z and the page before that for sensor values.

www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf

and page 16 and on

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

You can print these off at the offic supply store in a large size with a flash drive ias a JPEG image





This is for the supercharged version and yours will be the same wire colors and pin #s but you do have a secondary air pump and no 2nd fuel pump

 

The HO2S orientation might be required?

 

What am I missing? There are dozens of LNA1410 ECUs on eBay.

You will likely need a TPS reset, and possibly an oxygen sensor reorientation. The reorientation can be worked around, but there’s no telling what voltage the replacement ECU will expect to see at idle.

 

Back from dialysis where I forgot to take my laptop while in chair to maintain my purity

The orientation or matching adjustment of the ECM to the TPS and O2 sensors makes you want to use your original ECM and verify the sensor values , relays , ECM connector corrosion and fuel quality and pump enable.

Have not reviewed what you have done yet

 

Good Evening!
Note: The car was sidelined after I stalled out when the car was taken on a longish trip of 1 hour. ( I had been using it for 6 mile commutes, and never knew I had the problem ).
I just got my VDP back after the replacement of the ECM with the one I got from California. (old at top of post, new later on in post). I also had the crankshaft sensor replaced. I still have problems.
!. Apparently the car no longer stalls after running for an hour or so. But all is not well.
A. The engine idles, after warmup,at 1100 in drive, and 1600 in park. The car actually seems more powerful than before, But this is too high for comfortable driving.
B. I now have the Check Engine light ON, but by blue driver Code reader tells me that it does not have a connection.
C. My mechanic was using his own code readers and said that he is getting errors from the MAF sensor, I was not able to find a replacement for the MAF sensor, The ones we looked at were worse that the one we have on the car.
So any help/advice appreciated. I am concerned since I cannot read codes from my own reader, the high idle, and I will need time to look at all the good stuff posted on this thread, ad it is above my expertise.
Thank you for all your help.
Tom

 

Common factor in the engine stalling ( if fuel pump shut down ) and OBD reader not powered is one fuse that they both use that must have the relay in the corner of the fuse box close

You can swap it with the left engine bay fuse box relay as it only runs the car horns




Researching

There are 2 different MAF sensors with only one will work for each SC and normally asperated engine

The MAF at proper idle speed will read 1.2 volts DC on the middle wire of the MAF connector

I think you can operate the engine with the MAF disconnected if it strands you somewhere , ibiet as a degraded limp mode

 

Swap the PROMs as Motorcarman suggested! Use your new ECU with the PROMs from your old ECU. That way you have a new ECU that doesn't fail when it heats up. It should be able to run the engine properly with the data from your old ECU, which corresponds to your specific engine.

This should correct your high idle and give you back the O2 sensor orientation, both of which can cause problems (like you have) when changing ECUs.

It is worth a try.

 

it idles high because closed throttle position is way off on the new ecm. you need to do a throttle relearn then do an oxygen sensor relearn.

blue box or an old IDS/WDS can do it

 

Thank you all!
So I will swap the PROMS as suggested, thank you for all the ideas.
blue box ids/wds sounds like diagnostic equipment, I can't begin to think where I would be able to borrow these.
For economic reasons, I can't take the car for more work. I have to depend on help from this forum and things I might find in the street and internet.
I did get my blue driver to read the codes:



latest trouble codes, I installed a knife edge switch at the battery since I still have a parasitic draw. so that could be one of the codes.

So these codes, which I have not cleared yet. the car starts up and runs well, aside from the high idle, which is too much to handle, and I must address first.
So, that parasitic draw, can I check the draw from each fuse box to see where the draw is coming from?

I will try the PROM swap next.
Happy Motoring!
tom

 

For parasitic drain when you remove the key the linier switch from pin 4 to 5 can stick , this is the key in - key out switch different then rotation

You can also turn the big steering column rotary switch from auto to off , this will be on the left side on the column.

The power drain you may see is the fuse # 4 of the trunk fuse box , security lock control module

This fuse must be installed to start the car

Never install the car battery in backwards and do not tighten the positive post too tight , ask me how I know

The final at sleep current draw is about 40 miliamps and accrues after a bit of time I can't remember

on all fuse boxes on the X300 fuse 1 - 9 are hot at all times directly wired to the battery inside the fuse box bypassing the relay in the corner

for all fuse boxes on the X300 only 10 , 12 , 14 , and 16 relies on the relay to close

The rest are hot at all times so that includes 11 , 13 , 15 , 17