so i went to lowes and got these hillman bolts to replace my front spring pan bolts. each side has 6 bolts.

i want to know if these are safe to use instead of oem

here are the bolts info

M8 -1.00 (fine thread) x 16mm ( 8.8 grade)

and i also got just in case

M8-1.25 (spaced thread) x 16mm (8.8 grade)


on the bolts in my car says 10.9 or something like it on them as for the grade. does that mean the 8.8 is not safe?


if not can you help me find a source in usa i can find out of country but they are running about $7 a bolt plus $30 shipping



also i wanted to change my tranny fluid i have a
zf 4 hp 24 i believe .

i bought 1qt castrol transmax dexron vi

is that ok? it said i need 9 qts ?? is that true





i want to change my rear differential fluid

i got 2 qts. but it says 2.1 is needed?

valvoline durablend synthetic blend 80w-90



says to use dot 4 but all they had was

valvoline synthetic dot 3 and dot 4 brake fluid will it work ok?




what kinda of coolant should i get?


any type of rv paste recommend for the valve cover ill be changing

 

also can you help me find the info on what order to bleed brakes and how to depressurize the abs line? ( pump brake 20-50 times?)

and how do i grease rear axle shaft uj? there are 4 im suppose to grease?

like always i will make a diy pic for others!

i have alot of parts and will be making a TON of diys very soon

 

Hey vandenplas408, These same repairs/preventive maintenance are things I just did recently except for the coolant and spring pan bolts. As for the bolts though, I think ACE hardware should have them (grade 8 or possibly grade 10)?

For transmission fluid, that transmission doesn't have a drain plug for the torque converter so the 9quart capacity you're seeing is for a full drain and refill of the pan and torque converter so roughly half remains in the converter so you would want to refill the pan via the dipstick with about 4.5 quarts but start off with 4quarts and drive around to circulate the fluid and fill until it's level

Differential fluid is usually measured with the car on level ground and removing the fill plug and just filling the diff until the fluid just barely starts to come out

Brake fluid _ DOT3 or DOT4 doesn't really matter neither does the branding but to bleed or flush the fluid the lines correctly, to flush, I usually use a syringe to remove the old fluid from the reservoir then start with the furthest caliper from the booster/reservoir which would be the passenger rear and what I usually do is have someone pump the brake pedal 10 times then hold down to keep pressure then release the bleeder valve on the caliper. Repeat that until new fluid starts to show or until no more air is seen coming out with the fluid then move onto the rear driver then to the front passenger and then to the front driver

As for the rear shafts, there are grease ports at both ends (differential end and hub end) you would need a grease gun to do it also

hopefully this helps you

 

what kind of grease do i need to use for the rear shafts?
i have a one man brake bleeder that has a pump with gauge .
my bolts are grade 8.8 ace had only grade 8 same for home depot
the brake fluid says brake 3 and 4 on the one bottle
makes sense ill get 5 qts and see how that does.
i will be taking the pan off and replacing the gasket / filter for tranny
so im hoping alot of the fluid will come out

 

brake bleeding info is
right hand driver :Fl , Fr, Rl, RR
left hand driver: Fr, Fl , RR, RL

 

The spring pan bolt is a M8 X 16mm flange bolt with 1.25mm thread. The bolt is a class 10.9 and has a serrated bearing surface.

You can find them at Fastenal or similar fastening specialists at less than a buck a piece. I doubt you will find them in that class at Lowes. Remember class 10.9 metric is about the equivalent of grade 8 SAE bolts and class 8.8 is only the equivalent of grade 5.

M8-1.25 x 16mm DIN 6921 Class 10.9 Zinc Flange Bolt | Fastenal

Dot 3 and 4 is ok but you should be able to find straight dot 4 at one of the big box auto parts places.

You will only get about 5 to 6 qts out of the transmission even if you drop the pan and filter. Unless you spring for a flush, you can get the same effect by doing about 5 oil changes, change the filter with the last change.

 

what kind of grease do i need to use for the rear shafts?

and what kind of coolant?

 

I use high temp wheel bearing brease in my grease gun....perfectly suitable for balljoints, u-joints, etc.

When I bought my X300 about 8 years ago it had old fashioned green anti-freeze and that's what I've been using ever since. I'm not sure if that the correct stuff as per the manuals....but, if it isn't, nothing bad has happened.

Is your existing coolant green, or some other color?



Cheers
DD

 

its green but manual says use jaguar formula. i looked and they old have years 1999 and above . so normal green is good to hear

 

Green Coolant is fine for aluminum. Our head gaskets aren't sensitive, our motors aren't as finiky as others when it comes to coolant.

 

I always believed that the Prestone green coolant would be fine for my X-300. I do not know if it was directly related, but about 2 years after I changed to the green coolant, my heater matrix plugged up. I could not restore flow backflushing and had to change it. I cut it open and found it full of some white powdery material. Then, the same thing happened on my wife's XJ8, again after about two years of green coolant! Fortunately it opened up fine with a backflush.

So, I cannot say if the events are directly related to green coolant or not, but I am sold on only using DexCool, which is formulated for aluminum engines.

 

I use regular Prestone 50-50 too but I am thinking about changing over to Evans waterless coolant. As the Jags are not daily drivers, i think the vans may offer some advantages long term.

 

would these work?

i can buy 2 packs and get 20 bolts

 

Well, I would say you should determine the pitch of your old bolts! Take one out and see... nothing is going to happen if you remoive one bolt then put it back. BTW, the bolts might be different lengths, although I cannot remember.

 

I they are 1.25 m8 x 16mm
But the original has 13mm head
these have 10mm head
Does that matter there still 1.25 m8 x 16mm

 

Got it! Well, my observation from a machine design perspective is they should be fine, assuming the flat portion of the bolt under the head is the same diameter. They say they are "flanged" so I think that indicates the area I refer to is enlarged.

 

yah i will order and let others know