The weirdest thing happened, of course, a day before a heat wave.

My AC button illuminates when pressed, the comressor runs, I measured the r134a gas or whatever it's called and it has a full charge.

What could my issue be?

 

Is air blowing through the vents? If so is it blowing throughout the entire range of speeds?

 

Yes, it is. I did have codes 11 & 41 on my diagnosis of system....

 

fault code 11 / Motorised in car aspirator ---Open or Short circuit.
fault code 41 / LH fresh/recirculation motor .....Check for short / open circuit in motor drive , motor flap sticking or jammed .
That's straight out of the book , I am not with my car at the moment but I would try with ignition only , turning the recirculate / fresh air on and off a few times, see if anything happens

 

Will do! I'll report back

 

How?

 

Try cleaning out the in car aspirator. Only takes a few minutes, and they can fill up with fluff etc. If the climate control thinks the interior is at the correct temperature, it wont call for cold air, despite the system being capable of producing it. The aspirator has the thermocouple inside it which tells the system the interior temperature, and a little motorised fan to draw air over it. Astonishingly expensive to replace, so dont break it!

 

I have the tool to fill it and it has a gauge on it.

 

That sounds like a good place to start. Where is the aspirator located?

 

Last year I redid the AC from the firewall forward. A couple of weeks ago the PDU was reading 12, 23 24. 12 and 23 are resolved, but 24 is still coming up after clearing it twice over the last week or so. From what I can tell there are two of these attached to the evaporator. I'm taking it back to my local to try and fix. Are these even available or repairable?

 

On a Rhd car, it is at the bottom right hand corner of the under dash knee panel. There is a little plastic grill about an inch square in front of it. I assume it is the opposite on a Lhd car.

 

If the compressor is operating, what do the gauges read???????????
Did the rec/drier desiccant beads become dislodged from the filter??
More info please.

bob

 

Not trying to hijack your thread but I am also having AC issues.

My car is reading 30 on the low side and 350 on the high side. From what I have read, this points to a clogged orifice tube.

The symptoms are weird though as I do sometimes have AC. Today I test drove it for the wife and stuck a thermometer in the vent. It was over 100F here in Vegas so the car was pretty warm inside. The temp was over 100 on the needle and after about 15 minutes of driving with recirculated air, the temps had dropped to only 80F in the car.

When I was on my way back, I noticed all of a sudden that the car was cooling off faster and the thermometer dropped to 60F by the time I got back. This makes me think that maybe I have a blend door problem but I have no codes on my system.

I assume that if it is the orifice tube, the temps wouldn't dropped quickly like that. But the gauge doesn't lie and according to that info, I am about 20PSI to low on the low side. From what I have learned, I should be around 50/350 at 110 degrees outside.

 

There is NO orifice tube. There is an expansion valve in the evap matrix assy.

bob

 

Copy that

But I guess the end result would be the same.
Something possibly blocking the system which needs a bunch of work to fix...lol

I did a diagnostic on the system just now and I get a code 46 which stands for a floor flap issue. Don't think this would be causing my problem.

Have stated this in the past but when the AC is on and set to low, the compressor never cycles. It runs, engaged, continuously. Still not sure if this is normal or not? Seems like there needs to be some way to regulate the pressure being developed in the system and cycling the compressor is the best way to achieve this. Maybe I am building up too much pressure and this is negatively affecting the system.

Does anyone know definitively the answer to the cycling question? I was told there was a relay in the engine bay that the system used to cycle the compressor but I need to positively identify that relay to test it.

Bernie

 

Well boys, once again I'm retarded and didn't plug the AC compressor in properly and it wasn't connected in the first place Oh well, I replaced all of the O-rings with OE and replaced the stock drier which said '96 on it! It was much lighter than the one I replaced it with. Also put new lower condenser bushings in as...I had none.
On to learn the proper way to refill high/low side on these.

 

Refilling AC Freon is prop the easiest job ever! the can/adapter and guage they come with only goes in to the specific fitting. so u can not get them confused (high and low ). They even tell you on the bottle how much pressure you should be expecting on the gauge under which ambient temperature.

 

I guess this should be RESOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Case closed.

 

Hold the phone! It is not as simple as just adding Freon if the system has been opened, like to replace the dryer. The system must be pumped down to remove air and water vapor, then refilled with the correct amount of Freon.

 

I talked to my local AutoZone and they have the vacuum tool for rent. I also have access to the high low tool. I didn't realize what I got myself info, but am glad it will all be buttoned up in the end. The drier was OE never replaced...