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I am currently building a hot rod using an IRS from a Jag. Salisbury. Was given to me. Not 100% sure on the model it's from, but from what I've been able to piece together from hours of internet searching is an XJ/XJ6 rear. Outboard brakes and lower control arms look like those from 95-97 cars(from google photos). I am trying to get the cross shaft out from the control arm that attaches it to the center section(sorry, not an import car guy). Same with the shock bolt. My BFH doesn't even scare it to move. Maybe a shop press is needed? Also, where is the best place to get parts for these? Need the bearings that the hub pivots on(hub to lower control arm pivots) and the cross tubes for them.
Back cover has P/N 15HU-010-022 on it
Axle(at hub end) has GKN 436300 on it
Thanks for the info and quick reply! Mine looks extremely similar to the one in your photos. Appears to be the same wishbones(learned a new term, lol) and hubs(from what I can see on the back side). Yes, the long wishbone pivot bolt #2 is my main point of issue. Can't seem to beat it out of the wishbone. I cut the head and threads off to remove it and now need to source new bolts. Haste created expense for me. The other part(s) I'm struggling to find, again not a jag guy by any means, is the bearings and tubes for the hub to wishbone mounting.
Wondering if I NEED to make any strength improvements. The car will have a 455c.i.d.(7.3L) Oldsmobile engine.
The center differential has a rating and the differential gears can be swapped out for some Dana' s
The fulcrum bolt is the same for the X300 and V8 powered X308 if you have determined the rear suspension version and where it came from
The way I extracted the long fulcrum bolts was to have the weight of the wheels removed so the suspension can float as it has attached to the chassis
With a impact gun was able to spin the long bolt , with the suspension floating it could rise high enough to have bolt head access hidden above the X300 rear trunk floor pan so you would need a impact socket extension
By the bolt spinning it migrated aft and out , you just need enough to get under the head and you can hook a open end wrench and apply pressure aft
You have the older versions of the differential strut links
The improved version fits in the existing attach points
Your welded up frame may inter fer with it as the improved differential strut has a bow in it that bows out aft , so you would probably have to attach it on the aft side of your welded frame
Do you see a marking on the wheel hubs
The differential housing is British but you can install the Dana's in the existing housing
I’ll have to get more(better) photos tonight when I get home from work. I have some space behind the rear housing before it interferes with anything. And I may try to mimic your brace as best as I can. Not out of the realm of my ability.
By mounting the differential strut on the aft side of your welded frame shifts the whole assembly aft including the aft wheel wells
I have the curved X308 out and can place it on a floor with a pic of the bow out dimension ( with a rular ) less you would possibly have to mod your existing setup
There are spacers available to bring your wheels out from the original hub flush mounting
3/4 impact to get it moving then air hammer it out it’s real easy. if this is not an option 20 ton press and pb blaster i guess 🤷♂️
i have a ton of these lower control arm pins laying around
you will probably want to find a better carrier than the open one that’s in right now. auburn or the speedmaster 19 spline with d44 gears of your choice
I’ve retained and reused stocks mounts/mounting surfaces. I had been thinking of adding a “K” laying down on its side to make a nice brace for the two diagonal braces. Do I need to add torsional bracing from the bottom of the mounting cast iron pieces to the inside of the frame rail? This is a completely custom build. 370-400hp, 500-600 lb/f torque. Very narrow tires(read as it will be a tire shredder). So little grip. With automatic transmission(never made this engine in a manual from factory, so different crankshaft).
Sadly, the heads have been cut off already. Couldn’t get them to move with a 10’ pipe on a breaker bar. Heads got cut off. Oh well. Maybe I need to put them on the mill at work? I’ll try heat and a BFH next though. I drilled and tapped a hole on each end so I can still do some rough fit ups.
And sorry for my lack of knowledge on these, I’m a racecar guy building a hot rod. First time working with anything like this. It was given to me to use if I wanted to. I saw it as different.
what is auburn and soeedmaster? Is that 19 slipne axles and center section(spool)? Is it the stub axles coming out of the center section? Axles at the hub interface? Are all the guts interchangeable with all dana44 stuff? Or just gears?
There is a issue with the diiferental ouput shaft bearings going bad so it's a while you are there situation and not after you have it all put together
And sorry for my lack of knowledge on these, I’m a racecar guy building a hot rod. First time working with anything like this. It was given to me to use if I wanted to. I saw it as different.
what is auburn and soeedmaster? Is that 19 slipne axles and center section(spool)? Is it the stub axles coming out of the center section? Axles at the hub interface? Are all the guts interchangeable with all dana44 stuff? Or just gears?
Yes any dana 44 carrier will fit but 19 spline lets you turn wheels.
Salisbury transmission was a brand of Hardy-Spicer (UK) that locally built Dana-Spicer’s Salisbury axles. The 4HA is the original straight axle copy of the D44, the 4HU is for independent suspension, the 15HU is a 4HU modified to fit the later jaguar rear end.
The main differences are.
Pinion yoke teeth: Salisbury 10-spline, D44 changed to 26 spline in the 70s. You can’t find new gearsets with 10 anymore.
Pinion bearings, carrier bearings
Ring gear bolts: most D44 3/8, most 4H 7/16, 15HU 10mm
auburn makes disposable limited slip carriers, speedmaster makes a clone of the torsen helical lsd.
to rebuild the hub pivot you have two choices. one is buy two cac4610 bearings and one tube mne4520aa
option 2 is you go on ebay and just buy a complete knuckle from any 97-06 XK8 or 95-03 XJ. then buy axle castle nut ND612041J and slap some loctite on it.