not starting
HI! May be it was already here, Jaguar XJ 6 1997, 3.2, not starting, turning key, lights on the dash coming on, but nothing happened after, engine not starting, even not trying to start, what can it be?
thanks for replay, its new battery on it, will check starter
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-switch-98502/
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Do you have an alarm/immobilizer on the car. That could also prevent the car from even attempting to start. Not sure if your MY requires a chipped key.
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Do you have an alarm/immobilizer on the car. That could also prevent the car from even attempting to start. Not sure if your MY requires a chipped key.
There is a large starter solenoid relay that must click closed by placing your finger on it as other relays in the area click as well
This is your starting point for troubleshooting
This is your starting point for troubleshooting
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-switch-98502/
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Do you have an alarm/immobilizer on the car. That could also prevent the car from even attempting to start. Not sure if your MY requires a chipped key.
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Do you have an alarm/immobilizer on the car. That could also prevent the car from even attempting to start. Not sure if your MY requires a chipped key.
is it on the starter itself?
Do not tighten the positive battery cable on the battery too tight
Fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box , The # 1 fuse is on the same row and closest to the fuse box battery cable terminal post
This fuse relies on the right engine bay fuse box relay to close ( referred to as one of two ignition positive relay ) and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( which in reality only runs your horn )
Fuse # 3 / 25 amp left engine bay fuse box , this fuse is hot at all times
The specific starter circuit does go through the inertia switch ( reference point 7 stop sign double hash page 38 of the 1997 wiring guide ) as well as other circuits and the switch is fickle from reading and can be jumpered with a paper clip at the switch connector between the only 2 white wires
Starter solenoid relay large left # 4 allows power from the battery coble to flow through the starter motor after it extends the starter into the engine flywheel
The solenoid itself is attached to the starter in a way it won't come off without removing the starter so we hold off on that
By feeling for the relay to click closed or not splits your problem in half
You have inhibits like the gear shift lever position switch ( referred to as linier switch ) and the key chip in your key as it should have a lump in it , and a couple of other inhibits
You have a ZF4HP22 transmission which is different then the usual ZF4HP24 on the transmission itself position inhibit , it does not have a rotary switch attached to the transmission body like the ZF4HP24
But the relay clicking every time wanted is the starting point
If it does not click swap the relay with a headlight , fog , or A / C clutch relay , The base unhooks and you can flip the base over to spray some penetrating oil to free them up
Last edited by Parker 2; Jun 18, 2021 at 09:42 AM.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-switch-98502/
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Although it's unlikely the switch. The inertia switch kills the fuel pump, so the car will try to start, but it won't turn over.
Last edited by countyjag; Jun 18, 2021 at 11:37 AM. Reason: image not compatible with forum
Do not tighten the positive battery cable on the battery too tight
Fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box , The # 1 fuse is on the same row and closest to the fuse box battery cable terminal post
This fuse relies on the right engine bay fuse box relay to close ( referred to as one of two ignition positive relay ) and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( which in reality only runs your horn )
Fuse # 3 / 25 amp left engine bay fuse box , this fuse is hot at all times
The specific starter circuit does go through the inertia switch ( reference point 7 stop sign double hash page 38 of the 1997 wiring guide ) as well as other circuits and the switch is fickle from reading and can be jumpered with a paper clip at the switch connector between the only 2 white wires
Starter solenoid relay large left # 4 allows power from the battery coble to flow through the starter motor after it extends the starter into the engine flywheel
The solenoid itself is attached to the starter in a way it won't come off without removing the starter so we hold off on that
By feeling for the relay to click closed or not splits your problem in half
You have inhibits like the gear shift lever position switch ( referred to as linier switch ) and the key chip in your key as it should have a lump in it , and a couple of other inhibits
You have a ZF4HP22 transmission which is different then the usual ZF4HP24 on the transmission itself position inhibit , it does not have a rotary switch attached to the transmission body like the ZF4HP24
But the relay clicking every time wanted is the starting point
If it does not click swap the relay with a headlight , fog , or A / C clutch relay , The base unhooks and you can flip the base over to spray some penetrating oil to free them up
Fuse # 12 / 10 amp right engine bay fuse box , The # 1 fuse is on the same row and closest to the fuse box battery cable terminal post
This fuse relies on the right engine bay fuse box relay to close ( referred to as one of two ignition positive relay ) and can be swapped with the left engine bay fuse box relay ( which in reality only runs your horn )
Fuse # 3 / 25 amp left engine bay fuse box , this fuse is hot at all times
The specific starter circuit does go through the inertia switch ( reference point 7 stop sign double hash page 38 of the 1997 wiring guide ) as well as other circuits and the switch is fickle from reading and can be jumpered with a paper clip at the switch connector between the only 2 white wires
Starter solenoid relay large left # 4 allows power from the battery coble to flow through the starter motor after it extends the starter into the engine flywheel
The solenoid itself is attached to the starter in a way it won't come off without removing the starter so we hold off on that
By feeling for the relay to click closed or not splits your problem in half
You have inhibits like the gear shift lever position switch ( referred to as linier switch ) and the key chip in your key as it should have a lump in it , and a couple of other inhibits
You have a ZF4HP22 transmission which is different then the usual ZF4HP24 on the transmission itself position inhibit , it does not have a rotary switch attached to the transmission body like the ZF4HP24
But the relay clicking every time wanted is the starting point
If it does not click swap the relay with a headlight , fog , or A / C clutch relay , The base unhooks and you can flip the base over to spray some penetrating oil to free them up
Last edited by Vitochops; Jun 18, 2021 at 11:51 AM.
Does the starter solenoid relay click by placing your finger on it ?
Swapped right engine bay fuse box relay ?
The inertia switch is always on the right side by the ight foot regardless if left hand or right hand steering
Swapped right engine bay fuse box relay ?
The inertia switch is always on the right side by the ight foot regardless if left hand or right hand steering








