I have a oil leak which seems to be coming from the power steering pump.

Both engine oil and PS fluid are at the right levels.

Is there anywhere in particular this could be coming from?

 

Thinking whilst drinking, stand by.

Gravity hose from p/s tank to the pump, VERY common, as its "plastic type stuff", and hot oil and old age is now not on your side. I replaced mine with hydraulic hose (knicked from work), and some decent clamps. Be careful with clamps at the tank end as that tank is plastic.

The other pipes/hoses on the pump are not known as issues.

Camcover gaskets do weep, and oil runs to some strange places before dripping off.

The gasket set up for the top chain tensioner is another leak place, but usually very visible.

I suggest establishing if its engine oil (grubby looking), or reddish, as in power steer oil. That will narrow the search somewhat.

The levels being "fine" is not unusual, as a small amount of oil makes a huge mess.

 

I had a similar issue with my previous 97 XJ6. Eventually I felt the steering get hard and noted an empty power steering reservoir. The hose Grant mentioned was weeping a bit, but the main issue was a cracked steering rack. The oil would well up inside the rack and eventually make its way out. That was an oddball type of problem according to the Euro repair shop. Usually it's just the hose.

On my XJR I had to trim the end of the hose attached to the PS reservoir as it was degraded. I snipped off about 1 cm, used a new hose clamp, and no more weeping. The distal end is OK so far.

 

The hose Grant mentions has been replaced with a rubber one.

I think it may be a seal on the front of the engine.

 

Good find so far.

There are 2 plates on the front, 1 is triangle, the other oval shaped.

The triangle is dead centre, and mine was always damp on teh bottom edge. I resealed it with Hi-temp RTV, been dry for 3 years.

The oval plate is behind the bracket for the CAS loom. Mine was "wet", so I removed for reseal, and there appears to be provision for a seal on the timing cover, BUT, no seal listed for it in any parts listing, so a new gasket, RTV and still dry, also 3 years on.

I did measure the aperture, and shaft, and one day I will find a seal for it and see what happens, but since it is still dry, who cares.

The actual timing cover seal is not a real common leaker, but it can/does happen. Genuine only here, and a new seal runner is my strong suggestion when and if you decide to do it.

 

Both plates mentioned above are dry with no signs of any leaks.

It seems to be coming from the aux shaft area, is this a possibility?

 

#8 is the seal inside the drive housing.

I have never ventured that far on mine, but the drawing looks simple enough to replace it.

That would have oil leaking between the power steer pump and the engine.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

Will have to look deeper into this

 

yes i am full it ....been working for years on jags ,them cats mark their territory ..clean areas with brake cleaner ,let dry dont laugh at this use of talcum or foot powder as a leak finder ...dust areas lightly it will darken where oil is found and where ...i hope this helps somebody out ...

 

It seems that the oil is coming from the area highlighted in red and then runs down the area in yellow.

Anyone know where this could be coming from?

Oil Leak Photos by mikesmith29 | Photobucket

 

The mud is waaay clearer now.

Those snaps indicate to me that the timing cover has been removed.

Doing so will always damage the section of head gasket that seals the top area of the timing cover from oil leaks. Placing the RTV, just right, prior to refitting, can/will prevent this, but not from what I see, nor on mine.

Mine was the same after I had the cover off to replace the timing chains and blades. etc.

Two choices:

1) Remove the cover and do it again, HUGE task, and messy as hell.
2) Reseal carefully as I did mine.

My way:

Obtain some Hi-Temp RTV (I found some Grey coloured that almost matches the engine colour) and a p/pack can of "carby cleaner solvent".

Wash that area well, with the solvent, do it again, and again. Check for oil, finger prints, whatever. Wash it again if you have doubts. This area MUST be solvent clean or the RTV will not seal.

Scrape, dig, whatever it takes to remove the visible RTV, WASH it again with the solvent.

Drying the solvent using an air blower, or a hair drier will save some time, but that solvent evaporates quickly on its own.

I used a mirror on a stick to view that underside area, and once satisfied with the cleanliness, used my finger to force RTV into that groove/gap, along the head line, right up under that top chain tensioner. I worked it in, using my finger as a spatula. It sounds difficult, it is not.

Allow the RTV to dry overnight. There is no quick way here.

Start the engine, and observe oil or no oil.

It may take a second application to get it sealed 100%, and I had 2 goes at mine.

Cleanliness here is mandatory.

Mine is oil tight, and been that way for nearly 4 years now.

It will take about 20 minutes to do this, not allowing for drying time, and 4+ hours to remove the timing cover and TRY and get it sealed when refitting.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Grant.

I will give this a go and see what happens.

 

Following Grant's advice I have put RTV along the joint and everything so far is oil tight.

Thanks again Grant for the insight.