Hello from Germany everyone,

long-time reader, first time poster here. In the last few years, I have just been sponging off info from this message board here and it's been very helpful. Never had anything to contribute, though, but finally I have something...

After failing TÜV (the local version of the MOT) because of bad emissions readings, I finally had new oxygen sensors installed in June of 2022. I bought two of the FAE 77185 sensors (european cars only need two). FAE is a Spanish manufacturer, the sensors are fairly easy to find on eBay and were quite cheap, actually. I had checked several British sellers of Jaguar parts (including one that I had bought other items from several times before) and had noted that they were selling sensors with this parts number, too, so I thought they must be alright ... And the best thing is, they did the trick, so my car is on the road still, running well with normal fuel consumption. It's been over a year now and no problems.

The FAE 77185 is a titanium sensor, 12mm diameter, with four wires that are 730mm in length (so 6mm longer than the original NTK OTD3J-5B1).

First-hand experience is always good to have, so here you go.
Have a great week-end, everyone!
Thomas

 

Thanks for the reassurance. Thomas. I can feel confident about using these. I need 3 and it is an expensive proposition for me so, knowing they worked well for you gives me peace.

 

My pleasure. First hand experience is why I come to message boards like this one, it's good not to have to make every experience by yourself ;-)

 

To test used O2 sensor before installing there are a few Youtube videos on applying a flame heat on the sensor ( consumes O2 and brings them up to operating range )

You would look for change of resistance and not voltage generation in these titania sensors

I tried it myself but no joy

 

FYI looks like RockAuto may have some of the Walker brand sensors available for anyone who needs one.

 

So lads, My sensors arrived from Lithuania. Time to install. Any advice on getting to the connectors by the windshield wiper motor. Should I remove the motor or what?

 

There was a TSB to move the connector location

I think it was called the lambia mod

 

If you’re doing the rear sensors, having small hands and some long needle nose pliers helped to manipulate things around some. Still a pain though. The clips for the wiring harness on top of the trans bellhousing at the very back were a pain too. I had a piece of slightly bent rebar laying around with very dull, rounded ends. I was able to VERY carefully wedge it between the block/head and the firewall to slowly push the wire harness backward out of the spring clips. Do this at your own risk though.

 

The rear O2 sensors pigtail clip can cut you on the bell housing split

To get more room it is like starter motor upper mount bolt removal

Remove the transmission cross member while in is on a jack , take 2 bolts on one side all the way off and the other side 2 bolts unthreaded until jjust before bolt removal , this keeps the assembly located

lower the jack slightly and it will pivit the engine assembly down giving some room up top at the engine firewall

There are some precautions to doing this like having the hood open and other I will have to recall

 

And all this is to loosen the wire from the bellhousing? How about I loosen the CO2 sensor, disconnect the connector under the wiper motor, cut the wire at the connector and pull the wire out. I then can install the new CO2 sensor and connect it at the opposite end and simply zip tie it down. Way too much work just to secure a wire. What are your thoughts?

 

Anyone have any pictures of this clip on the bellhousing? I wish there were a video on how to do this.

 

The 2 / O2 sensor 8 wires / bundles ( 2 sleaved bundles ) simply pulls out of the clip direction fwd or aft from a C shaped clip that stays attached to the engine split

To drop the rear of the engine may not be necessary

There is a edge on the clip that can cut into the wires or hand , this was subject to a TSB , coming

There are 2 of the with one covering the connectors relocation

And this one 3rd

05-1-11a (jagrepair.com)

Don't cut any wires as that could be a dead end in the process of becoming and becoming one with your engine regulation

Don't get frustrated and twist the fragile O2 sensor pigtails

Anti seize on the O2 sensor threads but be careful to no get on sensor bulb

Crush washers , mine were missing on previous owner

!7 mm hex size on the sesnor . 12 mm thread size

I have some pics from someone else ( either the original location or the modified ) on an old computer , Mine was the easy connector location VIN # 755xxx

Ask Questions

 

Great! Thanks for the sound advice. What did you mean by "dead end in the process of becoming and becoming one with your engine regulation"? If you cut the wires near the CO2 sensor that could cause a short circuit and mess with the ECU? I guess I didn't think of that one. Unless you cut them individually. I will give a shot your way though. I still say it would make things easier to remove the wiper motor. The connections are buried behind it.

 

On mine there is a small bracket attacked to the rear engine block for the connectors

On yours ir may be easier to remove your bracket

If you cut the wire to pull through a new sensor the wires can not be soldered as galvanized wire so would not except solder so that part would be shot

Removing the wiper motor is not bad and neither is the whole wiper assembly ( black rectangle box ) , I did that before for the wiper system but did not have to for the O2 sensors

The O2 sensor pigtails can be accessed on the cars right side as they go down and really the only side you can see the clip on the bell housing seam to hold the pigtails

Is yours right hand steering ?

 

No, left hand.

 

If you look at your O2 sensor connectors on the car side , the car side will have 4 wires with 3 being the same color and the 4th being different

This 4th wire determines the correct sensor connector location

This from the pic in above post # 27

Blue is for bank 1 aft

Red is for bank 2 aft

Green is for bank 1 fwd

Brown is for bank 2 fwd

If you are not replacing the fwd sensors and the connectors are in the wrong position it is advisable to leave the connectors where they are at

This could cloud your picture of your engine run results ,

 

So Gents, I replaced the CO2 sensors and boy, what a difference! Before I would have to pull over after 15 minutes of driving, shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and continue the journey. Now she just purrs like a kitten. Problem solved. Thanks so much for all your help guys!. Without this forum I would have to sell my car.