XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Power Steering Pump Removal & Replacement

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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 02:37 AM
  #21  
bjarnetv's Avatar
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From: oslo
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Originally Posted by cdma
On my list of to do. Can someone give me a hand and tell me how you get to that far bolt on the power steering pump? The top and side are easy, but the far one, between the engine and the pump, is a bear.
If you have a small 1/4 ratchet its actually quite easy - there is actually plenty of room to ratchet it back and forth in there (you just have to locate it by feel).

One thing to keep in mind for the people refurbishing their PS pumps is to take care to let the small vanes keep the position they are already in (either mark them when removing them or use tape to old them all in place.)
I didn't do this, and the result was that my refurbished pump failed after a couple of months - i suspect the failure mode was that the vanes no longer slide freely and got stuck in place, reducing the overall pump pressure.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 12:12 PM
  #22  
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From: Albuquerque, NM
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Originally Posted by bjarnetv
If you have a small 1/4 ratchet its actually quite easy - there is actually plenty of room to ratchet it back and forth in there (you just have to locate it by feel).

One thing to keep in mind for the people refurbishing their PS pumps is to take care to let the small vanes keep the position they are already in (either mark them when removing them or use tape to old them all in place.)
I didn't do this, and the result was that my refurbished pump failed after a couple of months - i suspect the failure mode was that the vanes no longer slide freely and got stuck in place, reducing the overall pump pressure.
Vains? I am refurbishing it and have taken the pump out, but have not started to disassemble them.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 12:25 PM
  #23  
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From: oslo
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Originally Posted by cdma
Vains? I am refurbishing it and have taken the pump out, but have not started to disassemble them.
Its a sliding vane pump, so it has lots of tiny vanes that slide freely in slots.
I removed mine without marking them when i took out the shaft to replace the seal - i suspect that was the reason it failed after, since they didn't slide as freely in their new homes, leaving some of them to eventually get stuck, reducing the pressure.





 
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Old Jan 22, 2024 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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It was probably the burned in wear pattern of the original outside vane edge matching the wear on the outer inside radius ring

so the vanes would have to be installed with that outside worn edge including if that edge is rotated 180 degees

This from someone who has not taken one apart
 
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Old Oct 4, 2025 | 01:34 PM
  #25  
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I had a major leak of Power Steering fluid in my driveway the other day. I took a look at the rack and that didn't appear to be the problem so I just pulled the pump out and I'm waiting for the seal kit. No obvious point of leakage on the pump but I think I checked all the possible hose locations. I managed to get it out without removing the exhaust heat shield but it wasn't easy getting to that back bolt. Like someone mentioned above using a 1/4" drive ratchet instead of a 3/8" made a difference. I would leave the other bolts slightly loose but still installed and take the back one out first.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2025 | 02:13 PM
  #26  
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From: Connecticut, US
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Got the pump out, seals replaced and reinstalled. Works great. Hopefully it stays that way. Honestly the hardest part for me was getting that spring clip off of the rotor. I ended up holding it in place by using a pick jammed into the notch below the clip and then using various sized flat screwdrivers wedged between the pick and the side of the clip until is bent slightly and I could get something to pry it out the rest of the way. I have spring clip pliers but this clip doesn't have holes in it.
 
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