Hello!

I have recently purchased a 95 XJR in British Racing Green. It only has 94k on it and I have already fallen in love with it. For a 30 year old car it is still in good shape and drives very nice.

However, I have only managed to enjoy it for one day before electrical disaster struck.

I'll keep this brief as I can. I only have one original black key, no fob. For some reason, the doors will not unlock from the tumblers on either front door, it just turns in either door with no resistance they do lock. The door lock button on the dash works too. The previous owner (I don't know who it came from a dealer) ran a black wire from the security box below the filler cap area, which if you touch to the body, unlocks driver door, then touch again and other three unlock. I was playing around with this with the driver window down. I locked it, then pulled up on the driver door lock which set the alarm off. the horn doesn't sound, I assume it is disconnected. Currently I have not been able to find a way to turn the alarm off, this happened last night. The wire which unlocked the doors now does nothing.Here are my current findings:

After exactly one minute thirty seconds, the alarm shuts off. If I try turning the key, it goes on again.

If I leave the key in the ignition, let the alarm turn off, I can then turn the key on/off and it alarm doesn't go on, but removing it sets the alarm. Car will not start.

Everything still functions, windows, climate control, I can hear the fuel pump. Not sure if that is normal when alarm is on. Holding the lock in driver door locks all doors, then puts up driver window as normal. There is a valet switch in the console, that doesn’t seem do anything.

I found what looks like a lock cylinder with a cable and plug attached to it under the spare tire, the key doesn’t fit in it. Not sure what this is.

No combination of turning the ignition or locking from the door or trying to ground that wire which before unlocked the doors stop it.

I am hoping someone here can help me or knows a way to turn off the alarm. My sense is this is a recurring problem, hence the wire and the horn not working.

This is clearly an electrical issue which needs solved, and I need to get a working fob, but right now I just need to get the car to move again.

Thank you.

 

Currently I have the battery unhooked, with the positive and negative cables touching. I know that won't fix this, but just something to eliminate.

 

Reviewing your post

With a US model you will not have chip in key immobilization

On key removal do you get seat and steering collum movement ?

This ( key ) makes a linier switch that starts a security lock control module to go into a sequence before it " goes to sleep "

If you remove the battery never install backwards , positive post fwd , mark with tape and a arrow

With a 95 you should have an early version of SLCM 335 herz if I recall

You can verify the current installed SLCM against this link , coming

The cataloge seems to be truncated from previous viewing the many SLCM #s

Genuine Security/locking Module For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

 

To shut the alarm off pull fuse # 4 of the trunk fuse box , loop a string on it

The wiring guide for a 95 and is in section 18 , page 159 North American Specification

See page X ( not found in 95 WD ) for SLCM connector map , this map is the module side and the mirror image will be the car side

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1995.pdf

The 95 WD is an incomplete doc and the 96 is better

See page 26 and 198 , do you have 2 door key barrels left and right ?

jagxj1996.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com)

 

" I found what looks like a lock cylinder with a cable and plug attached to it under the spare tire, the key doesn’t fit in it. Not sure what this is. "

A lock cylinder is a common issue of not being free to make a switch to tell the SLCM as all agreements that things are locked up on the SLCM sequence to go to sleep , drains the battery

Pervious troubleshooting not followed through ( ? ) , reason for part in trunk as probably not the original

 

" There is a valet switch in the console, that doesn’t seem do anything. "

the valet switch keeps the trunk locked for the valet driver to bring the car back to you from my understanding

I'm not rich enough to need valet parking

See this video in the security section

 

As you can see in the 96 WD page 26 there are only 2 black wires pin 3 and 9 that are normally wired to car frame ground

This ground stud is hidden in the cabin side rear seat back from reading someone else

But any ground location will work like along the battery tray

 

Thank you for the links, I will spend time tomorrow digging into them. I was already made aware of the necessity of never installing the battery wrong way around. The old battery, which was dead, was correct, I replaced with correct size battery, it is in correct position.

I do have two barrels left and right, both lock the car, both lock the car, but neither will unlock the car. When I turn them to the unlock position, there is no resistance, unlike when locking, when I can feel the tumbler (I assume) activating the lock module.

I have read how to set the security system to learn FOB mode, I can see tomorrow if the car will allow that mode to be activated. If it will, perhaps obtaining a key FOB and programming it will allow me to use it to unlock.

After thinking it over, it seems to me whatever tells the lock module(s) to unlock is no longer doing so, hence why the ground wire doesn't do anything anymore.

The electric wheel switch is set to "off" I will turn it to auto tomorrow when I hook the battery back up to see if it moves on its own with the seat. I will verify what SLCM I have as well.

I'll let you know. I am thinking I am probably not going to just be able to shut the alarm off, I will have to fix whatever is causing the unlocking to not work.

Do you know if I were to get a replacement SLCM, if it is something I could program on my own? This is the first Jag I have owned.

Thank you.

 

There are some relays involved between the SLCM and the lock actuators to try first

" A " door key switch telling the SLCM to lock everything up ....................Should not have to go through a relay

The relay map for the left heelboard area ( rear passenger ankles ) is ...... coming

Your 2 door key barrels vs. 1 is a specific print on page Y of the 96 WD

The 2 door key barrels was mixed around in production to different countries in the early years of X300 production , I think Don B the moderator mentioned this

The black ground wires may be important in the exiting car sequence and if the SLCM logic steps are not complete before reentering the car the SLCM may not have started ( woke up ) from zero state . Exiting car sequence may not be valid if you leave something in the car and instantly turn around and unlock the car which should work in the real world

Your battery cables " hard reset " should bring the SLCM to zero state with fuse installed and the longer the cables are touching the better like with jumper cables and overnight , place a shop towel , box , or neighbor's dead cat over the battery posts

In this pic from someone I think some relays are missing , I didn't research

 

The FOBs are not cheap and I think a Saab of the same years works

Insure correct FOB freq as either 335 or 433 ( later year models )

The SLCM is plug and play and ready to function minus FOB , only FOB programming

SLCM connectors installation only with positive battery post removed

 

Where are you based in the world JTC95?

 

His / Her profile location is US