All of a sudden, my SRS light (Red) has come on. While this doesn't inhibit performance, some other orange warning lights have appeared, such as the bulb out warning, but I can't find a bulb out. I feel they are linked. I get a Fault Code P00EE. Does anyone know what that covers? My local agents can't tell me.

 

Hi Jens boy,

I don't know what P00EE means, but the P indicates that it is a Powertrain code. I'm not certain on the X300, but on other models the SRS fault codes I've seen have been "B" (Body) or "C" (Chassis) codes, which generally cannot be read by a standard OBDII scanner - it takes a dealer-level system or more advanced third-party scanning system to read them. Now that I think about it, the X300 is very early OBDII, so it may only have P codes.

In general, when odd fault codes appear on a Jaguar, the first thing to check is your battery voltage, especially while cranking the engine. Low battery voltage is probably the number one cause of hard-to-diagnose gremlins on a Jag. Number two would probably be corrosion on battery power connections, grounds/earths (of which there are many), and number three would probably be corrosion, contamination or looseness of electrical connectors.

Regarding your "bulb out" warning, have you checked bulbs that are not normally on, like your high-beam ("main beam"?) headlamps, brake lamps, turn signals, license plate lamps, and fog lamps? On our '93 all of those are connected to the Bulb Failure logic circuits.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don. Thanks for that. There doesn't seem to be any faults in the airbag trail, despite the SRS fault light being on. The bulb light comes on when I turn the park lights on. However, I can't see any bulbs out when I turn the park lights or main lights on. Non have been replaced lately. Also, the petrol gauge has a different reading to that of the analyser. It has been suggested that there is a problem behind the instrument cluster, perhaps corrosion. So far, a replacement cluster is the next move.

 

Hi Jens boy,

Have you checked your battery voltage while cranking?

It's easy to remove the instrument cluster to check the connectors for corrosion and that they haven't vibrated loose. It's possible you need a new cluster, but corrosion or other issues are far more likely. It's also possible that all the warnings on the cluster are correct and you have multiple issues. That's more common on Jaguars than the need for a new cluster.

Regarding your bulb out warning, have you checked the brake lights? Fog lights? License/Number plate lights?

Petrol level sensors are known to go bad. The sensor is mounted on the back face of the fuel tank, accessible in the boot behind the spare wheel and carpeted trim panel. You can check its resistance, then drive the car for a few days to lower the petrol level by at least a few gallons, then measure again to compare the resistance readings. I can never recall the correct resistance without checking the workshop manual, but I believe it is in the 0-150 ohm range depending on fuel level. The sensor is Part 8 in this diagram, and you can see the main body of the sensor and the bent wire rod and float. The round ring, Part 10, is the sealing gasket, and the other ring, Part 9, is the metal locking ring.


See my earlier comments about corrosion on battery power connections, earths/grounds and electrical connectors.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Don. Thank you for your persistent nudge. Located the blown bulb - a number plate light. I wouldn't have looked if you hadn't included it in your advice. Now to get on with your other suggestions.

 

Progress. I was given an article entitled 1995 Jaguar X300 Air Bag Diagnostics for Dummies by Brendan McPhillips. All the mystique dispelled by a few pictures. As soon as I can get a couple of 2.5ohm resisters I'm into it. (Lately our small town doesn't have these things) Also, apparently Fault P00EE refers to the additional air into the air filter stuff.

 

I have been trying to find a 2.5 ohm resister to Diagnose my air bag light being on . No one I have contacted has them. Will a Different resister work. Thanks

 

Try RS components or Radio Shack, I'd be surprised if they didn't have them.

 

Thanks. I looked there. Nothing looks like what Brendan McPhillps shows on the Air Bag Dignostics for Dummies. I have been to couple of electronics stores and I show them a picture of his looks like and they give up and shake their heads. Would love to contact Mr. Mc Phillps to find out for sure what he is using.

 

I couldn't get any 2.5 ohm resisters but came away with some 2.2 ohm, and some 2.7 ohm, both of which worked. I traced my problem to the blue airbag control box behind the passenger's airbag. I should have started there first, but following the airbag diagnostics for beginners is a good way to dispel any anxieties about the system. Try buying a control box from a wrecker, seeing as you may well be going that far in anyway. I think the problem is often in the box.

 

Thanks. I will pull the one out in my other XJ6 and give it a try.

 

Well if you want to contact Mr. McPhillips, he also goes by the name b1mcp and he's here.


A couple of points for info.

The ABS module looks at the resistance on the Air Bag circuit. Anything above 4 ohms will flag an error so 4 is the absolute maximum value of resistor to use in the emulator. A real Air bag would normally register 1.5 - 2 ohms.

If you are showing the picture in the Diagnostics for Dummies book then the store will not have anything that looks like that. That is because the picture shows how I soldered the resistor to 2 clips to provide the connection to the Air Bag circuit plug. It is just a standard resistor like this one

Metal Film 0.6W 2.2 Ohm Resistor | Maplin

 

Traded the Blue Airbag box form my other 1995 XJ6 and that was the problem. Thanks

 

The proper FORD tool that was issued to us at the Jaguar dealer in the late 1990s was either 2.1 or 2.2 Ohms (I forget which).

I just soldered up some 2.1 or 2.2 Ohm resistors to a few different plugs from old SRS components. I cut the harness connectors of old/faulty airbag harnesses and bridged the connector wires with the resistors. I had some for X300, S-Type, XK/XJ etc.

I had some for the main bags and the seat harnesses.

If you measure the SRS circuits in-situ (all components in the circuit), use ONLY WDS, IDS or similar. This method uses the SRS module to read the resistance. DO NOT read directly across the airbags or pretensioners. They supposedly can be deployed if enough current is used, even with a digital meter.

Be aware the there are usually SHORTING clips inside the harness connectors to prevent stray electricity from deploying the SRS components. When you unplug a connector, the shorting bar touches BOTH pins in the connector and you will get a FALSE reading unless you plug in a connector or isolate at least one pin.

Most of the harnesses connectors should be YELLOW. Some have locking clips.

bob gauff

 

I had the SRS light come on, too. Turned out to be a bad battery--the current drawn while cranking didn't allow the diagnostics to run properly, setting the airbag to "default" mode, meaning it would deploy but not take into account the physics of the crash.

I would bet that a bad starter could have the same effect. Does it happen if you run the car for, say, 20 minutes, then restart it? After the wheel has automatically telescoped out, try cranking it back over. If the light is now out, I'd say it's the battery, starter, or alternator/ground. Changing the battery solved my issue.

 

1997 X300 Sport 4.0 manual
I have the SRS light on after about 5 seconds and the word AIRBAG in the trip display.
Sometimes it goes out but it is on most of the time now. Car had a new battery last year but the paint shop man let it go very flat. Where is the link to the article for dummies as I don't seem to be able to find it? I have a full set of spare modules from an identical car I broke.
Thanks
Charlie

 

It's in the "How To" Quick links but has been hidden quite well. Here's the original post

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ostics-112470/

 

I tried changing the air bag module. You can just remove the plugs from the one fitted to the car without removing the air bag itself to try the spare module first. This made no difference so plugged it back in again.
I took the car to Nene Jag Specialist in Peterborough. When i arrived the SRS light had been on permanently for two weeks. Upon re-start the SRS light was out! But the fault code reader read "32" pointing to drivers air bag resistance fault. I changed the clock spring for one off an X300 I broke (funnily enough labelled Aston Martin!) Hey presto all is now well and the SRS light seems to be staying off. Now to get it MOT tested before any other things come up! The car has done 205,000 miles so likely the clock spring is broken somewhere inside.

 

I had a problem with my airbag light, and the culprit turned out to be the shorting bar which resides inside the multipin plug which attaches the loom to the airbag control unit, located behind the glovebox.
My theory is that the bend in the loom to allow the plug and all 24 wires to attach to the control unit, over time had distorted the plug and allowed the shorting bar to short. As best as i could work out, the purpose of the shorting bar is to illuminate the airbag light in the event that the plug becomes dislodged from the control unit. The "pull" of the wiring loom had allowed the contacts to meet and illuminate the light.
When you removed the control unit to fit a new one, you may have inadvertently solved the problem by reseating the shorting bar and the plug.
As an aside, the control unit is one of a small number of Ford badged components on the car, and is shared with the F150; I believe there might be more of those in the US than X300s.....!

 

Thanks for that comment. I dont think that was the problem in my case as the SRS light was on after spare module test and fault code clearly indicated a problem with the drivers air bag circuit. The reference to the shorting bar is the first i knew of it so thanks. One to remember for future fault finding.