I used PB Blaster Graphite lubricant spray. Another one is SlipPlate.
It is rated up to 850f, so it will be interesting to see how it lasts.
They will be covered by the heat shield anyway, So I am looking at this as a personal vanity thing, since I'll be the only one that sees them,

 

Nobeel- I would consider going back with the Payen exhaust manifold gasket https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...l#immersedview , it is significant thicker than the OEM gasket and may work better to seal the mating surfaces. I used these on my Jag turbo project after discovering a small leak near the firewall after cold starts using OEM gaskets. I switched to this gasket design (significantly thicker) and no more leaks. If you are joining two perfectly flat surfaces then either design will work; my response is to advise you and others there is an alternate exhaust gasket design.

 

Hi bsparkman,

It looks like the one I took off the donor car was this thicker type with the hatched dot pattern. I have no idea how long it was on there, but it was a good seal, no carbon marks out from the ports.
I already ordered the OEM metal gasket and am making sure I have the right surface roughness.
I've yet to look at the car it's going into, but will make sure everything is squeaky clean for the install.

I found a great article which shows a specific roughness for the manifold surface. Seems as long as its flat, then the roughness should be from a 100 grit sandpaper.
Does anyone have any more information on the required roughness for the manifold and OEM gasket?
http://www.leftlanebrain.com/cylinder-head-resurfacing/

compression ring type (Permatourque) – Aluminum head on iron block
30 – 60 Ra. 50-60 Ra preferred.

 

Hi,

I finally received the last of the gaskets and got stated on the install.
It was all going well until I ran into the rounded/stripped nut at the back of the rear manifold. After a few slipped wrench attempts and trying with a socket from below I decided to pull the cats and the rear manifold out to get to it. After borrowing a jack and stands I was able to get under and remove it all. Then it was a case of cleaning up and reassembly. It took a couple of hours to get it all back together and running.
The engine seems to be running smoother and mpg's appear to be better already after a few short runs.

Thank you all for the great advice. It really helps to know you are out there for support.


Pulled cast and rear manifold

I tried, but it was far too gone. Vice grips did the rest

Finally

Rear installed

Front installed

Done

 

Ahh, those are the single use nuts, right?

perhaps that’s why!

 

I read about the problems some people had with that rear nut so prepared accordingly (thanks again guys).
I had a new set of the downpipe nuts and it all went together pretty well.
I used the original nuts and spacers on the manifold

 

I thought it might be useful to show the condition manifold downpipe nuts that came off. The wear marks are from install and uninstall as far as I know only once.
The new nuts seem a lot more solid, the old ones feel kind of brittle. Does the metal weaken with the temperature hikes?
I was sure I had a good hold on them when removing them, so was surprised at the damage they took.
I guess if it says single use, use it once only.

 

I thought I remember my nuts looking like they were copper...they certainly looked different than the zinc or stainless ones I would buy at the store.

 

The Ones available at SNG Barrett do look like copper.
The new ones that went in were stainless steel.
Should I be concerned I don't have the copper nuts?

SNG Barratt Downpipe nut