Hello!

This is my first post. I have a 1995 XJ6 (this is my second Jag, first was a 94 XJ6)

I am in need of some assistance I am in the process of replacing the transmission (ZF24) and have a question. Long story short, The Transmission & Torque Converter was from a junk yard, a guy bought it was going to swap into his jag, never did... it sat in his garage for a year or so... and now I have it.

The Torque Converter is on the tranny now, and is held in place (sort of) with a little bracket.

So the other evening, I pulled my jag into the garage lifted all 4 corners up in the swaped out the Radiator with a good "used" one (original radiator leaked antifreeze into tranny cooler).

Now I have removed the down pipes from the exhaust manifold/ all 4 O2 sensors. And a quick trip to Sears to buy the 6 pt tool I will be able to start droping the rear tranny mount.

I have been using a PDF of removal/install instructions off this forum (01 XJ8 instructions, best i could find) AND one of the last steps it says "DO NOT REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER FROM TRANSMISSION"

so QUESTION IS: WHY? what happens if the previous owner of the tranny or junk yard removed the torque converter and put it back on? Is there a way to make sure its on correctly? Does it fit any other way than just one way? What happens if I assume it never was detached and just put it in the car and it was?

Please advise... i've done several searches on the jag forums and have come up with nothing. Is there anything different about these than other manufactures that I can google?

 

I am not sure why the manual says not to remove torque converter. You should go to sticky post find the link and download the XJ6 manual. Our auto transmission is 4-speed ZF 4HP24 and the X308 cars come with 5-speed auto ZF 5HP24, which is a different unit. I would find a reputable rebuilder and have the torque converter rebuilt before I put it and the used trans back into the car. Swapping a transmission is a fair amount of work, and you probably don't want to do it again. Eriksson Industries enjoys good reputation in the ZF world, be it Jag, BMW or anything else with a ZF trans.

 

The XJ6 transmission is a 4HP22, while the XJ8 uses a 5HP24 or 6HP26 depending on year. What transmission did you obtain?

 

The US version of XJ6/X300 with 4.0 Litre motor uses ZF 4HP24. The lower displacement Euro versions probably use 4HP22, as did the XJ40 with 3.6.

 

I obtained the ZF 4HP24, as I am in the US.

I did some research on the internet, and concluded that the 95 used the HP24, Unfortuantely the tag on the bad tranny in the car is underneath the shift cable assembly. And, because the car was still (moderately) drivable I didnt want to disassemble everything till I was actually ready to do the swap.

On the way home this evening I will stop any buy the TORX so I can drop the rear of tranny this evening, and then I will be able to verify for sure.

 

I am pretty sure it's 4HP24, because the X300 was never sold in the US with engines other than 4.0. The 22 vs 24 is the torque rating of the trans. More displacement - more torque - higher number.

If you are buying Torx tools, get a set of bits made by "Lisle". It's good quality and reasonably inexpensive, you can get it in most chain auto parts stores. Stay away from cheap ones imported from China or Taiwan. They are only a couple of bucks cheaper, but they break very quickly. I am still using a set of Lisle bits I bought 6 or 8 years ago.

 

about the torx bits. I do believe they are 6pt. are they metric or imperial/standard? Is there a difference?

the last few days I have been working on the jag, seems like the car is assembled with a conglomeration of both.

 

The other significant difference between the two gearboxes is that the 4HP22 is hydro-mechanically controlled, while the 4HP24 is electronically controlled.

Cheers,

Don

 

another question...

before i head to parts store this evening... any other items that should be purchased for the reinstall other than the obvious like tranny filter and nuts for exhaust manifold to cat.

 

A Torx bit is a Torx bit, identified by a T with a number. None of that Metric vs. English silliness applies to them. Whenever I touch exhaust fasteners on my car, I keep PB blaster, small benzomatic torch and anti-seize handy.

First I soak with PB blaster overnight: wrap a rag around the fastener, soak with PB blaster, then wrap on top with plastic bag, so that the rag stays soaked.

If it does not help I heat the nut with a small benzomatic torch, that usually gets even the most stubborn ones. I keep a 3 ft long breaker bar handy for this kind of work.

When I reassemble I use anti-seize. Makes it easier if I ever need to work on it again.

 

AWESOME ADVICE on the exhaust

So i stopped off at the store on the way home and picked up a torx set made by Lisle. grabbed the T50 out of it, put it on the upper bold on the transmission mount (up in the rubber) and S N A P !,,, torx bit cracked and teeth came off.

so a few swear words later and a waste of $41 usd... i looked at the head of the bolt, still looked okay enough. so off to sears to get two more T50's. came home, and bolt head was not okay enough to break loose ended up stripping it.

Out comes the drill... and i gave up... out comes the SAWZALL... Problem solved... i heard its best to change the mount with a new one anyways since I'm already there.

So as it stands now, the driveshaft is off, cats are off, front mufflers are off, trans mount and cross support are off, dip stick tube off, tranny lines removed, wire harness unplugged. and some of the lower bel housing bolts are loosened.

I am struggling getting to the 2 upper bolts, i can get to them, but am having a hell of a time getting them to break loose, and i do not have air tools.

WHAT size is the bloody bolt on the harmonic balancer, its HUGE and I dont have a socket large enough. Need to turn motor to get to the inner bolts inside the little window in the belhousing.

I did come up with an idea, and it seems to work (kinda) but not sure if i will be able to do a complete revolution. I pulled off the coil packs and removed all of the spark plugs so no more compression... i then put a 10mm socket on the alternator pulley, and I am able to turn the engine that way... but i didnt push my luck and go for a full rev.

 

justinius7: don't waste your money on any more Lisle Torx bits. As you've discovered, they're junk. Now Lisle makes many excellent tools but Torx bits aren't one of them. I'm on several auto/garage related forums. The consensus is Snap-On makes the best Torx bits but the prices are crazy. SK Tools are excellent at much better prices ( I've got many SK pieces). Wiha are also excellent and they have a US based online ordering site.

But yes, a Sawzall beats a Torx bit any day!

 

Sorry to hear about your bad experience with Lisle. Looks like Lisle quality has gone down over the years. My set is 6 or 8 years old and I have used it to remove engine + trans out of a '97 LWB a few days ago. You should return the set and get your money back.

 

+1 Juha,

My Lisle Torx bits are at least 8-10 years old and still going strong. Sounds like the newer ones are not as durable, or perhaps justinius7 was a little too rough with his T50 or didn't have it fully inserted into the head of the screw.

Cheers,

Don

 

NEED HELP!

I had to go and purchase a air compressor and 3/8 impact, was finally able to get the top bolts off...

Now I have the transmission out, and am getting ready to install the new "used" transmission...

the new transmission has a tag on it that says "REPLACE FRONT SEAL AND INDEX TORQUE CONVERTER COMPLETELY PRIOR TO INSTALLATION"

Okay, I don't know what that means.

I tried to google front seal, but seems they reference the front of the engine.

I looked at the tranny I just removed, I see the seal I think they are talking about... I tried to pry it out, and have no luck. question is, is this a must? and how do I get out? I see on line that this is not an expensive part, but I can not figure out how to get out, and is it necessary? I fear to damage or mar the area around the seal.

 

seal around the spindal

 

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...eals%20R&R.pdf


I just happened to stumble across this link a few moments ago while trying to figure out what to do about the seal (the link is for the rear).

 

as a FYI... dont remove the drive shaft... it is a serious PIA to replace!

transmission is in, torque converter is seated and attached to fly wheel, now I wait for the tranny filter kit, and rear transmission mount to come in so I can finish.

I need the bolt for the tranny mount (due to removing the original mount with a sawzall). any suggestions on where to find the bolt?

IS THE BOLT THE EXACT SAME THREAD/LENGTH AS THE OTHER 4 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE TRANSMISSION CROSS MOUNT TO THE FRAME?