XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

unbolting engine from tranny..

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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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Default unbolting engine from tranny..

i am in the process of pulling a 95 xjr 4.o engine and am to the point where i have to separate the engine and transmission. i thought i read in the fsm that they have to come out together but cant double check due to a bad cd drive in my comp :/ very annoying as u just purchased the manual for this swap.. is there enough room to leave the tranny in the car and unbolt from the engine? and if so are there any new tricks to it? new to jags so any suggestions are helpful. thanks.
Dayn.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Default engine removal

There is not much room on the top 4 bolts so that you cant get a wrench on the bolts. If you have a lift you can drop the crossmember and take the motor and tranny out as a unit.or take them out as a unit from the top.The haynes manual for the xj40 gives all the info.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:24 PM
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ok thanks looks like i will be taking them out as a whole unit from the top. any tricks on unhooking everything from the tranny? ie linkage and wiring? thanks.
Dayn
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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is it necesary to take apart the center counsel and radio surround in order to undo the linkage and connections going to the tranny, or is it possible to do it from under the vehicle?
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jagdayn
is it necesary to take apart the center counsel and radio surround in order to undo the linkage and connections going to the tranny, or is it possible to do it from under the vehicle?
A few years since I did this on an X300 so the memory could be a bit hazy!

Lumppy47 is absolutely right about the top four bellhousing bolts. If removing the transmission from the engine, the combined unit has to be lowered at the rear of the transmission to even access them.

unbolting engine from tranny..-05-gearbox-front-seal-flywheel-marked-torque-converter-realignment.jpg

This shows the rear of the engine lowered by about 2 inches to clear the top bolts.

You can leave the engine in and remove the transmission but not the other way round.

As far as I recall, the selector assembly unbolted from the side of the transmission and there was no need to disassemble the centre console.

Graham
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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thank you so much for the sugestions they should help tons!! i was going to try to remove the engine mounts and lower the engine a bit and see if i could get it out with out removing the transmission, from your advice i take it thats not possible? thats confusing that the transmission can be removed with out the engine, but the engine cant be removed without the transmission. whats the reasoning behind that? thanks again.
Dayn
 

Last edited by jagdayn; Apr 29, 2012 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jagdayn
thank you so much for the sugestions they should help tons!! i was going to try to remove the engine mounts and lower the engine a bit and see if i could get it out with out removing the transmission, from your advice i take it thats not possible? thats confusing that the transmission can be removed with out the engine, but the engine cant be removed without the transmission. whats the reasoning behind that? thanks again.
Dayn
Dayn,

You could remove the engine alone but I don't see how this is possible with the front crossmember in situ. Removing the Vee mounts would give a drop of maybe an inch. The oil sump is likely to contact the front crossmember at this point.

One of the issues with the X300 when trying to make some space is the way the oil sump wraps around the front crossmember. If you remove the crossmember, you can lower the engine unit:

unbolting engine from tranny..-06-sump-replacement.jpg

With the engine lowered, you can access the top four bellhousing bolts.

Depends what facilities you have available for lifting / supporting.

Graham
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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The main problem is not taking it out but re installing as the motor is angled and when dropping it back in it wants to stay vertical,thus it will be hell to line it up with the tranny, Taking it out and re installing as a unit is the easiest,
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:38 PM
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Ok guys I'm understanding what you are talking about. My main concern is the space in the gurage that I am working with. I was planning on basically unbolting the engine ant tranny mounting bolts and using the engine hoist move the whole unit forward a few inches to get access to the remaining four bolts. Then supporting the tranny and leaving it in the car. I will try to make room in my gurage to remove them both as a whole unit. Does the front clip of the car have to be removed to do this? This is something else I am trying to avoid. Thanks.
Dayn.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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When transplanting an engine and trans combo in an MGB, we find it very helpful to get the back end of the car up as high as possible. It helps get the unit in.
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jagdayn
Ok guys I'm understanding what you are talking about. My main concern is the space in the gurage that I am working with. I was planning on basically unbolting the engine ant tranny mounting bolts and using the engine hoist move the whole unit forward a few inches to get access to the remaining four bolts. Then supporting the tranny and leaving it in the car. I will try to make room in my gurage to remove them both as a whole unit. Does the front clip of the car have to be removed to do this? This is something else I am trying to avoid. Thanks.
Dayn.
The engine / transmission unit is supported at three points - the Vee Mounts on either side of the cylinder block and the one support bracket at the rear of the gearbox. To allow the transmission to move forwards, you have to disconnect the rear support bracket. It can sit on a block of timber or a trolley jack at this stage. Once you unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, there's nothing holding the transmission. Not unmanageable but it needs to be supported.

As Lumppy47 commented earlier, getting engine / transmission reconnected is going to be a beast of a job. I'd be looking to lift the complete unit out in one if garage facilites allow.

mgb4tim is right about the relative positions of vehicle to ground. By raising one or even both ends of the vehicle, you can get greater clearance to rotate engine or engine and transmission past the crossmember and over the front of the vehicle.

Graham
 
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Old May 1, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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If you need to put a temporary support for the tranny,a piece of 2X3 stud will bolt through the jacking supports,(helps keep the unit flat when re installing).Also you may be able to leave thr radiator in,just cut a piece of 1/2 in plywood to the size so that there wont be any damage.You can leave the front clip on just remove the bonnet.
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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Well I got the engine Amy tranny out as one unit last night went easy and painless. After starting I realized I would have enough room to take them out as one unit. I ended up having the front of the car on ramps and lifted and angled the unit out. Was way smoother than I expected. Thanks again for all the help and suggestions really helped alot. Now getting it back in and remembering where all the hoses and wires go..
 
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