Hi trampintransit,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

That black plastic cylinder is the "Suppression Module," basically just a capacitor that reduces Electromagentic Interference (EMI) / Radio Frequency Interference (RFI).

Since I note that you have not yet done so, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

Wow, this is not the first conversation we've had recently about the voltage regulator wire being shared with other systems (e.g. sounder/alarm-speaker, windscreen washer nozzle heaters, A/C clutch), and the risk that causes if any of those other systems introduces a short and blows the fuse.... thus disabling charging, and ultimately the car.

As pointed out earlier in this thread, and in my alternator/charging thread, this wire being shared is a design error and weak link.

So I wonder if we ought to look into using an open slot in the RH fuse box to isolate the voltage regulator exciter wire all on its own as a preventative step? It wouldn't be hard. I may put that on my list at some point.

.

 

Great idea. Let me know when you have something and I will test it out for you. It really does not make any sense on how they have it. Looks like someone got cheap during design

 

Well, well. Thanks to Lady Penelope I've mad some progress but have equally ended up confused again. The alternator was on the bench but I hadn't taken it for testing. It's a new refurb so I assumed it was OK but WAS going to check it. THEN, in the light of this thread I established that the supply fuse number 10 was indeed blown ....YAY...making progress. So, popped a fuse in and as expected it went pop the second the ignition went on. Now, further armed with LP's experience I pulled the plug from the sounder, and hey presto the fuse stays intact ...BUT ...still no charge!!!! So, I'm guessing the only things left are

1) The alternator is indeed dud ( unlikely but possible )

2) The 12v is going missing between the fuse and the three way plug on the back of the alternator ( Much more likely I think)

In the diagram LP posted on page one of this thred there is a 'splice' somewhere..where's that? I'm considering putting a 12v supply DIRECTLY to the alternator exciter terminal to see what happens. LP mention the plug having different colours to differentiate which is exciter , and which is lapm feed....but both the wires are white on this car????? Did you ( LP) establish if thst diagram of the three way plug is viewed looking into the alternator of into the plug? IF I know which is which I can bung 12v straight to it and see if starts chucking out a charge?

EDIT ... is the multiplug refered to on page one AFTER the fuse?

 

Back in a bit .

 

Well, the mystery deepens.

having established that the 5A fuse had blown, I put one back in and it went pop. Pulled the connector from the klaxon and it put another fuse in ...didn't go pop. ..great ...ignition on, there's 12v on the exiter wire. So took the alternator back out and had it tested and yes it's knackered. So, my local motor factor says it £200 for a new one!!!!! .. They also say it is a Jag only alternator ( Which surprised me, I though it's appear on other Fords of the era!) ..Which explains why the local breaker doesn't have one. ..

Somewhere I've read that somebody replaced the regulator and got one working very cheaply....do we know what the regulator is? Is it just a diode or a zener or a 3pin chip?

So, I'm going to take it apart and see what I see...but I'm still bothered by the multiple simultaneous failure. Why did wa there a dud alternator AND a short in the exciter feed ? Just coincidence?

 

IN435 rebuilt alternator could be bad out of stock , common

 

TADAAAAA

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/01G231-AL...sAAOSw~FJZOAwV

Every day's a school day!

 

So, chances are its reg yes ...for 14 pounds it's worth trying this regulator off ebay? .. Or is it even worth pulling this reg apart ...is it just a bad diode? ..but whatever ...it's surely worth a try isn't it? I mean it's more likely the reg than anything else?

Then again , there's other potential failures in there isn't there? Brushes / rectifier bridge? ..or is the rectifier built into the regulator?

 

You can buy both rectifier and brushes on eBay, UK. I found all parts there few months ago, there is also an online shop that sells all the parts in UK, sadly cant remember the name atm. Generally if the alternator windings are fine(I'd say 95% of all cases) its always cheaper to rebuild alternator with new parts than look for a new one and its also always better than a used one.

 

My modem died so I.m back ,

The 2 IN435 regs from 2 Ebay vendors came as a IN221 . In therory the 221 is a faster or slower response rate when sudden loads are encountered like stereo bass notes

Both IN221's gave more faults on the spin up machine tester then the original alternator regulator .

Found a original Jaguar Alternator in the salvage yard and test fine on the spin up tester .

Bottom line I would deal with a non ebay vendor that has a reputation to uphold by providing a more accurate product delivery and at least one that should work

I should still have the manufacture's box to avoid .

The factory is supposed to do the quality control to see if it works , not the customer with there time , effort and vehicle out of service . That's how you lose your paycheck when your customers stop buying from you . Not rocket science and it's a very simple equation .

 

Well...once the sounder / klaxon was unplugged the fuse stopped blowing and the exciter voltage reappeared and the original alternator ( the one the guy took off in the first place ) once back on the car, is charging YAY!!!!!!

The second alternator was dead but I guess that COULD have been killed by running 'dumb' without an exciter voltage ...

And now the ABS light's on .... yawn!

Thanks for all the help and guidance folks.

 

Sounder is common as water gets in there .