Might not have refreshed deep enough . Go back to the X300 page , then go to your thread .

 

you are my new hero. Started the car no blown fuse. Thanks so much for your help...fingers crossed

 

Please don't use sandpaper on any connections, not even fine grit sandpaper. The scratches allow humid air and moisture to invade the contact surfaces and promote future corrosion. A brass-bristle brush is much better, along with zero-residue electronic cleaner (CRC is a popular brand). You're looking for a gas-tight connection.

Cheers,

Don

 

My work is done . My mom says I need to get to bed now

 

Spoke too soon. Put the washer relay in started the car and POP

 

Then don't do that . Your going through fuses like popcorn ,

Remove the washer relay and as you run the car wringle the black connector below the fill cap

 

i will give up tonight and try again tomorrow. I removed the washer fuse wiggled the black connector and turned the key and pop

 

 

SO is that what you think it is? Yea I am torn between continuing to try to fix it myself and just dropping the car at the Jag dealership. I think today, since they are not open, I will go through the whole process again. Go by autozone and get a bunch of 5 amp fuses, connector cleaner, and parts for my sons car, that just so happen to crap out, and give it another shot. I am not sure that I am willing to go through replacing the whole connector. Can you send me the link to the supplier and how you would go about replacing them?

 

Also I see relay 7&8 I took out number 7 but not sure I have an 8 because when I look in front of the fuse box I only see two relays and not three. Saw three. It was a long night and a VERY crappy day.

 

The other relay is for headlight washer pump option .

 

GM....Can I get your source for the plugs please? About ready to start again. I will let you know what I find if anything but off to the store to by a case of 5amp fuses

 

You can jumper a wire around the connector and bypass the problem ( if it is the connector shorting to ground ) The first one being most important is the one going to the Alternator in position 2 , White Blue wire .

Not being sure that it is the connector , but they do have a common history . The other White blue wire in position 4 is for the windshield washer nozzle heaters ( yep it's got them ) and they may be shorting out to ground on the other side and not related to the connector so you would just cut that wire to isolate the problem .

 

How do you remove the wires from the connector. Just push the pin back through?

 

I'll have to look for my condition was bad and just cut one connector out and butt spliced the wires . That was before I found the connector source . Git er done mode

 

I would think that if i cut those wires and went to turn on the key after I cut it, did not hook them back up, that the fuse would not blow. I am not even starting the car

 

You can validate that test that makes sense by watching the fuse blow before start position , Then one cut at a time redo that test

Looking to see if there was a uprating of the fuse size as there were on other items

No there was not on this fuse

 

both were cut when i turned the key. first i jumped then it blew. then I disconnected them turned the key and it blew again. I have all the other fuses disconnected as you said.

 

You'll have to buy the female side also , this source is from England

https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/13-...-Connector-Kit

https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/13-...-Connector-Kit

 

At the very bottom of the fuse box itself there is a connector attached to the box . Remove and isolated the fuse box terminal post as it's hot from the battery then remove the fwd and aft box securing bolts to flip over .

We'll have to go back over if and how evidence points to the 10 wire Papa Indy 61 connector