X300 xjr rear suspension same as X308??
#1
X300 xjr rear suspension same as X308??
Ive run into some trouble... I was driving my xjr and hit some black ice, spun the car and the rear end smacked up against the curb wrecking the rim and further causing damage to the rear suspension. Its totally shot. ( I thought the wheel was going to fall off when driving it to the shop)
Anyways, i know someone who has the parts i am looking for, but the parts are off an x308 xjr. Are the suspension parts the same?? And would they fit my car?
Thank you!
Anyways, i know someone who has the parts i am looking for, but the parts are off an x308 xjr. Are the suspension parts the same?? And would they fit my car?
Thank you!
#2
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Ive run into some trouble... I was driving my xjr and hit some black ice, spun the car and the rear end smacked up against the curb wrecking the rim and further causing damage to the rear suspension. Its totally shot. ( I thought the wheel was going to fall off when driving it to the shop)
Anyways, i know someone who has the parts i am looking for, but the parts are off an x308 xjr. Are the suspension parts the same?? And would they fit my car?
Thank you!
Anyways, i know someone who has the parts i am looking for, but the parts are off an x308 xjr. Are the suspension parts the same?? And would they fit my car?
Thank you!
Hi XJR6_cris,
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums!
I'm sorry to hear about the damage to your car. A good place to compare parts for the X300 and X308 is at jaguarclassicparts.com, the parts service of the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust. There, you can pull up diagrams of the rear suspensions of both models and compare the part numbers. I think you'll find that most of the parts are common to both models, with some exceptions that may be important, depending on the damage to your car. Note also that there were some changes over the years for both models, so the VIN of the donor car will be important to know to ensure its parts will fit your car. Also be aware that a few parts are different for the supercharged cars. Below are links to the rear wishbone diagrams for both models:
Wishbone Assembly - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Wishbone Assembly - Parts For XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
Since we're a friendly bunch around here, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum and post an introduction so we can give you a proper welcome and learn something about you and your Jag.
Please keep us informed on your suspension project.
Cheers!
Don
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#3
In this diagram:
Frame Carrier-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
the parts numbered 1 and 2 will be different on the X308. the hole for the differential
input is offset to the right on the X300 and centred on the X308.
the hubs *may* have the ABS sensor in a slightly different location.
The entire rear subframe assembly for the X300 and X308 are known to be drop
out drop in compatible if one accepts the differences. This is how some people
are installing the X300 diff in a X308. They change the whole subframe, or grab
part number 1 and 2 in that diagram.
The X308 uses a different differential.
The X300 hub part number is now superceded to the same part number as the
X308.
If you list the parts you want to change, then we can be more specific.
If you post 4 more messages, you should be able to send me a PM, or
accept PM's from me. I just recently acquired a X300 rear suspension.
Frame Carrier-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK
the parts numbered 1 and 2 will be different on the X308. the hole for the differential
input is offset to the right on the X300 and centred on the X308.
the hubs *may* have the ABS sensor in a slightly different location.
The entire rear subframe assembly for the X300 and X308 are known to be drop
out drop in compatible if one accepts the differences. This is how some people
are installing the X300 diff in a X308. They change the whole subframe, or grab
part number 1 and 2 in that diagram.
The X308 uses a different differential.
The X300 hub part number is now superceded to the same part number as the
X308.
If you list the parts you want to change, then we can be more specific.
If you post 4 more messages, you should be able to send me a PM, or
accept PM's from me. I just recently acquired a X300 rear suspension.
Last edited by plums; 12-20-2014 at 09:30 PM.
#4
#5
Alright thank you,
Ill be trying to get on the site often so i can get my posting numbers up. I was having a rather difficult time finding websites with specific parts for the x300 xjr. Ill take a look and compare.
Im not quite sure how to send pm's but ill try to figure it out, i would like to check out the rear suspension you have. Also i am going to try to upload some pictures of the damage on my car.
Maybe it'll give you guys a better idea of what went wrong and what i need to fix it.
Thanks Greatly,
Chris
Ill be trying to get on the site often so i can get my posting numbers up. I was having a rather difficult time finding websites with specific parts for the x300 xjr. Ill take a look and compare.
Im not quite sure how to send pm's but ill try to figure it out, i would like to check out the rear suspension you have. Also i am going to try to upload some pictures of the damage on my car.
Maybe it'll give you guys a better idea of what went wrong and what i need to fix it.
Thanks Greatly,
Chris
#7
So you kissed both ends of the car?
You need to get a view of the underside of the rear suspension.
It may be that the bearings are collapsed or shattered. The bearings are
inner and outer on the halfshaft which forms the upper arm of the
suspension as well as four bearings each in the two u-joints. None
of them are extraordinarily difficult or expensive. The u-joints are
standard chevy u-joints.
The bearings are especially suspect if the wheel sounds terrible while rotating.
A bent suspension arm is not especially noisy. The wheel still rotates, just at
the wrong angle.
You need to get a view of the underside of the rear suspension.
It may be that the bearings are collapsed or shattered. The bearings are
inner and outer on the halfshaft which forms the upper arm of the
suspension as well as four bearings each in the two u-joints. None
of them are extraordinarily difficult or expensive. The u-joints are
standard chevy u-joints.
The bearings are especially suspect if the wheel sounds terrible while rotating.
A bent suspension arm is not especially noisy. The wheel still rotates, just at
the wrong angle.
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XJR6_cris (12-22-2014)
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#8
Unfortunately i did hit both sides (riverside front wheel and tire, passenger side rear wheel and tire)
But that is good to hear, i was thinking id be out a couple thousand on the damage. I have the car at the shop right now. So its getting checked out and ill see what i need exactly.
But like you were saying, when i moved the car around, the wheel made noise when rotating. Hopefully the parts you mentioned is what i need, and nothing else or nothing major that will empty my wallet haha!
But that is good to hear, i was thinking id be out a couple thousand on the damage. I have the car at the shop right now. So its getting checked out and ill see what i need exactly.
But like you were saying, when i moved the car around, the wheel made noise when rotating. Hopefully the parts you mentioned is what i need, and nothing else or nothing major that will empty my wallet haha!
#9
#10
They haven't contacted me but i was there saturday the owner said they will have the car in the shop after the holidays. when the techs will be there to have a look. Im hoping it isn't major and also that it is only just the one side versus the whole rear suspension. Ill keep you posted.
If that is the case (the u-joint) is that a big job to repair or can it be done at home?
thanks.
#11
u-joint can be done at home by a reasonably skilled and experienced person.
depending on inner or outer, the hub does not or does have to be separated
from the shaft. but if it is the inner and you do not remove the shaft, then
you are stuck doing a u-joint on your back under the car. since you seem
inexperienced with u-joint replacement this is probably not a good idea.
and, in the present condition the towing cost has to be considered in the equation.
there is also the need for a new alignment to be considered.
better to let the shop do it in case something comes up. you don't want it all apart
only to discover there is part of the job or something additional that you cannot
handle.
oh, and don't forget you have insurance. sometimes people forget this option as
they forge ahead. if you don't get the insurance company involved early enough,
they might not cover everything once you do decide you need it covered due
to mounting costs .... example your wheels.
depending on inner or outer, the hub does not or does have to be separated
from the shaft. but if it is the inner and you do not remove the shaft, then
you are stuck doing a u-joint on your back under the car. since you seem
inexperienced with u-joint replacement this is probably not a good idea.
and, in the present condition the towing cost has to be considered in the equation.
there is also the need for a new alignment to be considered.
better to let the shop do it in case something comes up. you don't want it all apart
only to discover there is part of the job or something additional that you cannot
handle.
oh, and don't forget you have insurance. sometimes people forget this option as
they forge ahead. if you don't get the insurance company involved early enough,
they might not cover everything once you do decide you need it covered due
to mounting costs .... example your wheels.
Last edited by plums; 12-29-2014 at 04:39 AM.
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XJR6_cris (12-30-2014)
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