Hi all,

I'm new here so please go easy on me. I'm looking for recommendations for a fuel pump replacement for my 97 XJ 3.2.

I've found some online that are fairly inexpensive but will they work? What am I looking for here?

Thanks

 

If you don't know yet, fitting the fuel pump is a PIA job so I didn't want to take a risk with the super cheap pumps and have to do it again. I fitted a Walbro pump (Part No. ITP088). Good quality and they cost about £85 which is not bad for a recognised branded item. Was still perfect when I sold the car 6 years later.

Having said that, others have fitted the cheapest stuff from Amazon/ebay (£25 ??) and had good results. Search for posts by @aholbro1 as I seem to remember that he has used a couple of the super cheap units.

 

Thanks so much.

Are they specific flow rates and pressures I need to make sure it has?

 

Don't go for the cheapest.
If it fails, it is a bloody nuisance (PIA) to pull the tank again.
Brendan is a Jaguar guru and I suggest you go with his recommendation.

 

more of an enthusiastic amateur I think

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43 PSI at idle going up to 46 on throttle up

There are 2 fuses

The muscle power in the trunk fuse box and a different control fuse

And this control fuse which in cases is at fault

Does the fuel pump relay click 3 times ( on 3 seconds - off - on ) in your finger on starting sequence ?

You may not get the 3rd click if the engine fails to start

CKPS enables the 3rd click

 

Doesn't really matter how expensive the pump is if you forget to plug up the inner-tank wiring before you put it all back....high-dollar ones don't work a bit better than cheap ones when not plugged-in!

To be fair, although I've bought 2 or 3 of the cheap pumps for stock, I've only installed one - in the 96 VDP documented somewhere in here. Yes, it had a failure of sorts within a relatively short period of time (I don't recall, but perhaps within a year) but it was not the strand-you-in-the-wild sort of failure, just the integral check-valve failed, causing long-cranking prior to light-off, akin to failure of the camshaft sensor. I have resolved to fit an inline, in-tank check valve also documented somewhere herein with any and all future pump replacements whether using a $12 or $120 pump.

As to reliability beyond the check valve issue, it is hard to say as one of the kids got that car T-boned by an F-150 doing 25-30 mph. It's been in the garage on stilts for a number of years now, having donated complete IRS, 4 dampers, driver's seat, aux coolant heater motor, radiator, and I'm sure various and sundry other bits (steering rack just came to mind!) to keep my '95 VDP and 97 XJ-6 in nick. But the fuel pump was working fine when I jumpered it to pump the fuel out of the tank.

FWIW, I would MUCH rather R&R the fuel tank vs. change water rail gaskets, if I should get to choose!!!

 

If the vehicle has been out of service for a while the pump can be frozen

You can bring it back to life with a battery charger that has a higher voltage than a fully charged battery

 

Thanks for all the replies.

Quick update. I've replaced the fuel pump. Prior to doing this the engine would crank but not start - I thought as it wasn't getting any fuel. Now it won't even crank.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

 

Never install the battery in backwards , not a complete show stopper

Place your finger on the starter solenoid relay and feel for click

You have to use the finger as other relays in the area will click

This splits the starter rotation issue in half

 

This is a whole new can of worms. There are loads of threads on no start, no crank with loads of things to check. See the Stickies at top of page and/or use the search function.

Just as quick check because of the work you have been doing.
1. Check battery voltage. Sometimes get run down when working on vehicle.
2. Check connectors around fuel tank. Security module is in left rear wing area near fuel filler. Other important loom connectors just above tank.

 

On the large connector above the fuel tank be patient and not break the 2 external lock over bar pins

This connector carries the wire from a trunk fuse to the body processor module up front which is the heart of your starter rotation system enable

By feeling the starter solenoid relay to click you will have verified all of your starter enables

With your 3.2 liter ( same engine block as the 4.0 ) it has a slightly different version of transmission ( ZF ) that does not have a transmission position rotary switch like on the more common 4.0 transmission

Pic coming