I have managed to get up and running our 2000 Vanden Plas that I was given from a family member that sat for over 7 years. I am now getting a series of codes when the check engine light is checked.

Here are 2 that I think are similar that I would like any advise someone can give me - I am going to post the other codes in a seperate thread as I am going to try and group them based upon the code or codes.

Here are the 2 that anyone can help with and point me in the right direction - thank you all in advance for your help, this forum has been an excellent resource already as I have tried and continue to push forward getting this car back on the road.

#1: P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction
#2: P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary / Secondary Circuit Malfunction

Once again thank you for helping.

 

Coil failures, to confirm swap them around and the faults should move with them

 

Actually, you would get better support if you kept all of these in one thread. The problem is a series of cascading issues due to sitting for a very long period of time. OBTW, where are you located?

You probably need a new fuel filter; maybe clean fuel, as well; you need to clean the MAF sensor; you need to clean the throttle bore and plate; you need to assure air tight run from the air filter box (how clean is the air filter, any mice?); clear all codes; due a hard battery reset (negative cable off, ignition on, touch negative cable end to positive terminal, hold for 90 seconds). Start it and see what codes now appear. Quite likely the temperature sensor in the crossover pipe is stuck. Maybe heavy corrosion on all grounds/earths .

I would bet you have heavy corrosion on the end of the coils (see Brutal's comments); maybe bad plugs or water in the plug well. Maybe bad battery, as well. But if it started once, it is worth your effort. The p1000 goes away once all issues clear.

So slow methodical testing until the codes only show P1111 (the very good code). Once that is achieved, you can start the real work: replacing those things that age poorly from disuse: belts, hoses, water pump, brakes (including caliper rubber and corrosion), shock mounts, tires.

Then, there is the heavy issues: condition of the secondary tensioners (a mistimed engine could explain quite a few of your codes); condition of the transmission; head gaskets.

No signs of rats or mice -- a frequent issue with cars stored in barns . . .

 

Why do you have so many threads started for codes? Hopefully one of the mods can combine them in one post. Delete all of the codes and see how many come back, they may be stored due to a low battery attempt at starting. The P1000 is not a fault code, it just means that module and emission tests by the ECU are not complete.

 

Thanks - in regards to the multiple post, I thought it would be better to group the types of codes I was getting.

Dave Mc

 

JHartz - located in Anderson, SC - in regards to your post and questions - the gas tank actually had a ton of water in it and rusted out and leaked into the trunk area - I was able to secure a good used one, no rust and then installed a new fuel pump and when doing it, blew out the gas lines both the intake and return up to the engine by removing the fittings at the engine. I also at that point replaced the fuel filter. In regards to the engine, I put in all new plugs and I did have 1 ignition coil that was gone and I could tell by running the engine and pulling them off one by one and the one that was bad, the engine did not bog down which meant it was not running on that cyclinder - I replaced that one. What I am confused about is I think I the codes in this post says that I have 2 more coils bad which did not show up in this manual test. Also once the bad coil was fixed the "restrictive performance" light went away on the dash board.

All of the wiring looked good, no sign or furry friends working their damage.

In the meantime, I will do the code reset also will try and locate the MAF sensor and look that up where to find it and check it.

Thanks for your help. Will be in touch.

Dave Mc

 

That is a electrical failure in the ignition circuit for cylinder 5, and 6. Most often the coils. Have you not cleared the fault codes and rerun? Otherwize youre dealing with old fault codes. Cylinders 5 and 6 on a 2000 v8 are drivers side front 2 cylinders.
on your fuel tank water issue that was from the filler bowl drain clogged. make sure to blow this out and keep clean or it will do it again when you wash the car or it rains

 

I have not cleared the codes and in fact when I took the car to O'Reiley Auto Parts so they could read it, they told me they could not clear codes (against policy) to be honest at the time since I had never done this, I did not really comprehend the meaning of the statement. Based upon these conversations, I now understand. I think what I am going to do is clear them using the method here noted from above ( clear all codes; due a hard battery reset (negative cable off, ignition on, touch negative cable end to positive terminal, hold for 90 seconds). and then take it back for a new reading. Also reading your note, the coil I replace was the very front one on the drivers side towards the raditor which leads me to now believe I have old codes.

In the end this is very helpful and once again, I appreciate all of the input you are giving me.

Dave Mc

 

you need to buy a scanner, doing a hard reset with the battery does not clear fault codes on a obd2 equipped car which is all jaguars from 1995 and up. look up info on here for what other use for scanners and cost. then you can do ALL YOUR OWN CHECKS AND CLEAR CODES. IT'S A REQUIRED TOOL IMO FOR ANY SERIOUS DIY WORK

 

I will bet that O'Reilly has a code reader for ~$75 that will save you many times that over the next few years. You obviously are fairly competent mechanic: add this critical tool.

I am betting that many of the codes are historical; not current (as Brutal pointed out).

The MAF sensor is in that little black attachment to the black tube coming out of the air filter box. Can't miss it. Make sure you use MAF cleaner. Be careful not to bend any prongs on reinstalling. Check the air tightness of the air tube between the filter and the throttle body. (Leaks will give you codes for lean . . ).

Finally (for now), have you determined the status of your tensioners?

 

Thanks again, went on Amazon last night and ordered a reader so will have that by tomorrow evening. I did find the MAF and will get the cleaner probably also this evening and work on that. In regards to the tensioners, all are good, I replace the belts this past weekend and saw no issues there when doing that work. In fact overall the car is running well now. Only 2 things I see:
1. The check engine light which I will know more once I get the scanner
2. This is odd - when I start the car and drive for 10-15 minutes - no issues, then it kicks into "Restriction Mode" for about a 2-5 minute period and then comes back to regular mode on it's own. Once it does this, the car stays in regular mode until I shut it off. However, each and everytime I start it and run it a bit it goes through this cycle.

I am hoping with cleaning the MAF sensor and seeing what codes are really valid that maybe in the end that will address issue #2.

Thanks again for the help and I will be in touch to let you know what was found.
Dave

 

He wasnt talking belt tensioner but timing chain tensioners, and this will kill and engine if the fail. Youll need to pull the cam covers off and inspect. Google it with jaguar forums in the search request and itll pull the good threads up with pcs. Better than the search tool here

 

Google secondary timing tensioners on a 2000 XJ8. The tensioners that are a concern are under the camshaft covers and tension the secondary timing chains. The first two generations were red plastic and they crack and leak oil, thusly, loosing the ability to correctly tension the secondary tensioners and the engine looses timing and they is destroyed. Not trivial. These are NOT the tensioners for the belts!!!

Replacing these is a hell lot easier than replacing the gas tank! But takes patience, an electric screwdriver with 1/4 inch socket drive (there is ****load of nuts). Parts are about $150 unless you do the primary tensioners. But lots of reading to do before tackling the job -- not the check. Check needs to be done soonest. Just need to check one side: right side, next to the air filter is easier to get to than left (left you need to move the ps tank, the dipstick). Be very careful with the gaskets and gasket shields for the bolts -- all reusable if you are careful.

Now maybe, in the glove compartment, or somewhere there may be some paperwork that said these were replaced with the third generation medal ones. If so, relax; if not, pull the coil covers, pull the coils, careful with the wiring, pull the plugs; undo the cam covers (look like old fashion valve covers) and check the tensioners -- if orange plastic, order new ones off eBay. Lots of threads in this forum; some Youtubes.

Said 'nuther way -- you're just getting started: but it is a great car once completed.

JUST noted that Brutal's piece hit as I was typing.

 

Ok glad you wrote back this is an entire different situation I was not aware of, I guess I have a weekend project now.

Thanks again for the heads up.

Dave

 

Sounds like an air leak after the Air Flow Sensor or could be a faulty/dirty Air Flow Sensor or connector, I would first clean the AFS and connections, reinstall, clear the code and see if that works. If not, then it could be a leak with the seal between the intake Air Tube at the throttle body, or the intake manifold gaskets, another area are the seals for the fuel injeectors. If you have a garage you normally use, they may have a smoke machine which will help finding were the air leak(s) are.

 

try these list for codes
https://www.engine-light-help.com/ja...ine-light.html

OBDII diagnostics. Trouble codes description for JAGUAR

 

Read first: this thread is some 20 pages with lots of references: but hits just about everything on timing chain tensioners.I just changed my own timing chain tensioners........HOW TO


While checking, you can use a point file (remember points?) on the coil igniters to clean them up.

 

To all - I purchased a scanning device and after usiing it, I determined that all of the codes were old and addressed over the time I have been working on the car - I have now driven it for 48 hours and it is running well and the check engine light has yet to come back on. This weekend I will be working on the tensioners that everyone recommended in these threds as well as cleaning the MAF to be proactive in both cases. Thank you all for your help.

 

Thank you for this code list - I really appreciate it - In the meantime, I purchased a scanning device and after usiing it, I determined that all of the codes were old and addressed over the time I have been working on the car - I have now driven it for 48 hours and it is running well and the check engine light has yet to come back on. This weekend I will be working on the tensioners that everyone recommended in these threds as well as cleaning the MAF to be proactive in both cases. Thank you all for your help