When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1998 XJR on which I'm planning to do a timing chain replacement as it's more than likely on original tensioners and once I'm in there I may as well just do the whole job.
I've found huge variance in prices of chain kits depending where they come from.
So I guess the questions in my head are whether it's worth going for genuine parts, if OEM then which kit is best and is the FAI kit likely to be decent, being the most economical option from a recognised brand. What have you guys used?
Several forum members, including myself, have purchased the Christopher's kit. It contains high quality components and importantly it includes all of the seals, gaskets etc that you need to do the job. (except a new crank bolt)
For my 1999 Super V8, I didn't buy a kit but bough the parts separately from Barratt as follows:
No compromise here: All Chains, Primary Blades & Guides, Head Gaskets, Head Bolts, Crank Seals - Genuine Jag
Small compromise here: Primary & Secondary Tensioners - OEM (part number with a "#" suffix)
Before you get too involved, make sure you can remove the harmonic balancer. The so called jaguar engineer who designed it, decided to buck the trend of the last 100 years, and reverse the position of the locking cone. So instead of the harmonic pulling off the cone as you try to remove it, it pulls onto the cone. I had three very experienced friends who are mechanics, and they couldn't remove it. I ended up drilling through the cone to remove it. Oh, and you can't use a puller, because the "engineer" decided he would put the rubber ring on the inner part instead of the outer, and the puller screws into the outer, so any pressure from the puller is applied to the rubber. As new harmonics are about $750, I decided not to chance it.
Next, be careful when you are undoing the bolts that hold the long chain guides to the front of the motor. They are a 15mm head but only a 6mm thread shoulder bolt. I managed to break one. They are not a standard size, and jaguar don't seem to list them.
Last edited by fredd60; Nov 5, 2020 at 07:58 PM.
Reason: clarity
To remove the crank pulley on my SC engine ("deeper" pulley than on NA), I used a universal puller that screws into the centre segment of the pulley (no stress on the rubber), like this one but with longer two bolts:
And yes, it takes a lot of time and patience to get the pulley start moving. I tensioned the centre bolt tight, hit it hard with a hammer, released the tension somewhat, hit the pulley inwards with a plastic hammer at two opposite sides, tensoned the puller again and so on...many times and the pulley eventually loosened.
To later hold the SC engine crank pulley when tightening its bolt, the holding tool usually sold will not do as it is for NA engines ("shallow" pulley). For the SC much deeper pulley, you need a holding tool with an extension segment. I bought this one on Ebay (it comes with the necessary high tensile bolts not shown on the pics):
Several forum members, including myself, have purchased the Christopher's kit. It contains high quality components and importantly it includes all of the seals, gaskets etc that you need to do the job. (except a new crank bolt)
That looks great, but sadly I'm in the UK which makes it problematic. Annoying stuff seems to get cheaper after it's been shipped to the US!
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
For my 1999 Super V8, I didn't buy a kit but bough the parts separately from Barratt as follows:
No compromise here: All Chains, Primary Blades & Guides, Head Gaskets, Head Bolts, Crank Seals - Genuine Jag
Small compromise here: Primary & Secondary Tensioners - OEM (part number with a "#" suffix)
Ouch, that will have been an expensive endeavour. I'm in two mins about doing the headgaskets as preventative maintenance.
Originally Posted by fredd60
Before you get too involved, make sure you can remove the harmonic balancer. The so called jaguar engineer who designed it, decided to buck the trend of the last 100 years, and reverse the position of the locking cone. So instead of the harmonic pulling off the cone as you try to remove it, it pulls onto the cone. I had three very experienced friends who are mechanics, and they couldn't remove it. I ended up drilling through the cone to remove it. Oh, and you can't use a puller, because the "engineer" decided he would put the rubber ring on the inner part instead of the outer, and the puller screws into the outer, so any pressure from the puller is applied to the rubber. As new harmonics are about $750, I decided not to chance it.
Next, be careful when you are undoing the bolts that hold the long chain guides to the front of the motor. They are a 15mm head but only a 6mm thread shoulder bolt. I managed to break one. They are not a standard size, and jaguar don't seem to list them.
Thanks for the hints, much appreciated. Certainly these cars make far less sense than German stuff!
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
To remove the crank pulley on my SC engine ("deeper" pulley than on NA), I used a universal puller that screws into the centre segment of the pulley (no stress on the rubber), like this one but with longer two bolts:
And yes, it takes a lot of time and patience to get the pulley start moving. I tensioned the centre bolt tight, hit it hard with a hammer, released the tension somewhat, hit the pulley inwards with a plastic hammer at two opposite sides, tensoned the puller again and so on...many times and the pulley eventually loosened.
To later hold the SC engine crank pulley when tightening its bolt, the holding tool usually sold will not do as it is for NA engines ("shallow" pulley). For the SC much deeper pulley, you need a holding tool with an extension segment. I bought this one on Ebay (it comes with the necessary high tensile bolts not shown on the pics):
Thats great to know, thank you for the advice. I'll look into getting the tool!
Originally Posted by xalty
Go to JLR classic and piece together. All the suppliers use a one size fits all kit that make you use the wrong 4.2 guides.
Oh? Is it a common issue? I assume they fit which is why they don't just get inundated with complaints, but don't work as they should? What's the issue?