Hi All,

It's been quite a while since I have been out here.

Well about a year ago I determined that my engine noise was a main bearing for the past year I haven't had the time or the $$ to do anything about it. But that is finally changing.

I am in the process of getting a engine from a donor vehicle, which my mechanic has found for me. It's from a 2000 XJ8 that has w/ 73K mi. The shop gave me the VIN and did a carfax, however I'd like to confirm that the engine that he has IS IN FACT from the vehicle in the carfax. A Local dealer gave me the engine # that is supposed to match that VIN. so here's my Question.

Where do I locate the "engine number" to verify that the engine # is a match for that VIN?

In case it helps or if anyone is interested:
VIN: SAJDA14C6YLF16368
Engine # LL0004120950

Also any way to confirm sleeve material for the replacement (Nikasil or Steel)?

Any & All help is greatly appreciated.

RJH

 

Look in the stickies. There is a PDF file that shows where each serial number is located.

 

Early V8 has the # near the left side of the thermostat housing.
Later engines have it to the rear of the left engine mount bracket.

Any AJ27 engine from 1999 to 2003 X308 or 1999 to 2002 X100 will fit your 2000MY XJ8.

bob gauff

 

If compression is good, I like Nikasil as much as steel- after seeing a motor with 76K and very little cylinder wear I was impressed.

 

Thanks to All that have replied.

My mechanic has taken a look at the donor engine and supplied me with some pics. with the cam covers off. He says "Every thing looks extra clean". Asked him about replacing the tensioners and he said they look perfect. given that this is a used engine w/ $70K miles, do I insist that they replace the tensioners anyway or worry about that sometime down the road...FYI--I work from home so I only put about 8K-10K miles/yr on the car.

Thoughts?

 

On my JX8 with the tensioners in place the only evidence of anything being wrong was the fact that the left hand tensioner was missing the plastic piece. But when I removed them I found the following:
Plastic Tensioners.pdf
If a tensioner goes down and the timing chain jumps 2 teeth then the valves hit the pistons and it's then time for a rebuild or engine replacement.

 

Replace the tensioners no matter what. Small price to pay for a large amount of insurance.

Also, while the engine is out it is MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH easier to do the lowers and rails.

 

If the tensioners are made from aluminium/metal they should be ok, these are the good ones, generation 3, if they are any sort of plastic bodies generation 1 red or 2 yellow they are UNLIKELY be perfect....I pulled my two yellow tensioners out; in situ they looked great...problem is one can't see the bit that starts to fail (metal spiggot bearing on plastic shoulder) I pulled mine out on advice from the forum...really glad I did. Allan

PS, as the mechanic already has the cam covers off to take pictures, have them changed if not metal ones, most of the work is in getting the covers off I have found....