So here the story I let the car sit for about 3 to 4 weeks was going to go sell it, went to start it and make sure every thing was good before inpout it up for sale. Car turns over but very slowly........ I know low voltage/bad battery right..... replace the battery brand new they tested it right in front of me 12.8 volts and 950 cca. Go home put it in the car same issue car just turns over very slowly.... the starter sounds like its turning over pretty quickly but the motor just moves so slow..... any one els have this problem I'm trying to avoid replacing the starter because it's burried in there.

 

If I was diagnosing the problem, I would put an AMMETER on the battery cable and test the power draw while cranking the starter. I would guess 200 amps or so is probably close to normal.

Could be the engine has a lot of internal friction or the starter is faulty?? More diagnosing!!!

bob

 

So I was able to rule out a few things this afternoon, I intialy thought I had a bad starter because it turn but the motor felt like it spun pretty freely so I thought the starter was working but not engaging the flexplate/fly wheel. I had my wife turn the key and ignition the motor was turning over but not even close to firing...... like not even a sputter. The fuel pump primes and I have spark, how ever when I pulled the plugs the top of the piston that I could see looked pretty dry. So I'm kinda leaning torwards the low compression do to oil wash out I plan on doing compression test tomorrow plus that will also let me know if the timing is right...... how much oil do you add to each cylinder

 

You cannot put too much oil if you add the oil and then crank the engine with the sparking plugs removed. The pistons will expel the unnecessary oil through the plug holes.

Install the sparking plugs and crank again. The engine will either start and expel copious amounts of smoke or continue to crank without start.
Too little oil added can mask the problem. A teaspoon added is not enough and then the problem is misdiagnosed.

bob

 

OK you original post clarified it: « It turned freely but tightened when certain cam heads were not pushing down on rods. So then set about with an endoscope looking for issue and found one of the rods was stuck open when piston came up. So wouldn't allow it up. Hidden behind the shaft of the rod so couldn't see it looking down the manifold holes was a bolt caught in it. »

i guess then that it was inside the valve cavity, blocking a valve and not allowing the cam to rotate.

my first inspection would be by all means the valve seat and stem hoping that no debris felt inside the cylinder to scratch the walls.

A good endoscope and compression test are your best friends now... no interference is possible as Greg says. I apologize that I got confused.

 

It is quite possible, gimenofl, that after nearly two and half years, he has gotten it started or sold or junked!!

 

lol no, this was just posted for some reason in the wrong thread (it was a reply to xjsc won’t turn) 😂